Return to Paradise! Bora Bora

by Eddie Clamp

Setting the scene

Sue and I were looking forward to a trip that had nothing to do with diving. Having served, myself, both in surface ships and submarines during my time in the Royal Navy my inclination in 1999 was to try a cruise to see how the other half lived :). We ended up that very year cruising on the P & O Victoria from Sydney to Acapulco. It was a wonderful cruise, visiting many Polynesian islands amongst others. One of the wonderful islands that we came upon was Bora Bora. The few hours that we spent there touring with many older folk than us was not enough for us. So we decided that we should return one day. And we did!!!

Bora Bora

Bora Bora is located about 160 miles northwest of Tahiti and approximately 2,600 miles south of Hawaii and was discovered in 1722. It is arguably the most beautiful island on the planet. Volcanic in origin, Bora Bora's rugged main island and a few smaller islands are completely surrounded by coral reefs. Made famous by books, movies, and its stunning beauty, the island is now besieged by tourism and overcrowding. Regardless, if you must visit a South Pacific island (and you should), Bora Bora would be an excellent, if somewhat expensive, choice.

Journey

We arrived in Bora Bora after a 50-minute flight from Tahiti where we had spent a three-night stopover. Flying into Bora Bora via Morea was an unforgettable experience. The aerial views of the islands were breathtaking - the azure sea within and without the reef and the verdant greens of the island. The airport is situated on an outer island from which we had a longish boat trip around the island to the capital Vaitape. Here our baggage was loaded onto "Le Truck" for the journey to our hotel.

We stayed at the Bora Bora Sofitel Marara Coralia hotel Website. We stayed in a garden bungalow that was very comfortable and cosy. The first evening we watched a demonstration cook-in given by a local lady - tuna mixed with lemon juice covered in coconut milk. Tasters on completion!!! :). Then we went to dine. Sitting at our dinner table in the restaurant situated over the sea on stilts where we were able to enjoy a view of all the small fishes below.

As we were the only there for a short stop I opted to dive mornings and spend the afternoons chilling out walking and swimming. To allay some of the cost we chose to wander down to a local supermarket to buy baguettes, cheese and bottled water for lunch on our bungalow patio. While I was diving Sue was able to relax and on one occasion enjoy a demonstration of "Pareo"(sarong?) making, complete with cold-water dyes and stencils and ended up making one for herself.



Diving

I dived with Top Dive Website. Because of the expense we didn't stay on the island long and I only dived three times but enjoyed it all immensely.

On the first morning I was picked from my hotel and transported to Top Dive. On arrival all divers were briefed on their options. I chose the inner lagoon Manta dive along with Rupert from Munich who was to be my buddy during the dive.

Prior to the dive we had been told that sighting of a Manta was guaranteed and if we saw more than six a bottle of Champers would be forthcoming. We descended from the boat to 3 metres and then down the reef to 20. Viz was low due to plankton - but hey - that is why we were there! On the way we met five Mantas cruising along the reef in the opposite direction to us - fantastic! On the way back my buddy and I saw another three but having stayed slightly at distance from the main group of divers and our guide we were alone in our observation. Eight Mantas in all should have qualified us for that bottle of champers but just like the fighter pilots of old it was unconfirmed - so nothing :(.

For my second dive I chose to dive Passe Teavanui where the open sea passes into the lagoon. Descending to 20 meters we were immediately met by five black tip reef sharks that followed us throughout the dive, coming within a few feet of us from time to time. These five were later joined by another five. At the end of the dive two huge Lemon sharks swam towards us hugging the bottom. It was at this time that our dive guide signalled us to exit the water. What a fantastic dive.

For my third dive I opted to go on Top Dive's larger boat to a dive site quite near to the airport. My diary tells me we descended to 14 metres on pristine corals with loads of small fishes. There was a strong current flowing, which took us along the reef, accompanied by Black-tip and Grey Reef sharks. We met large barracudas and morays on the way. Towards the end of the dive we swam through a large shoal of Jacks. Spending our 3 at thre5 under our guides DSMB we exited the water very happy.

Next stop - Castaway Island - Fiji (but that is another story).

Many apologies for no underwater photos but I wasn't into digital then!





Dedication
This report, along with all the others I have written this year for the BSAC Travel Club, is dedicated to our very own, dear Editor of our BSAC Magazine "Dive".

Eddie Clamp
June 2007r>
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