BSAC TRAVEL CLUB - Trip Reports

TRAVEL CLUB

Arcachon, Bordeaux, France, 2005

by Wendy Cook

The first problem with diving in the Bordeaux area was finding someone who offered diving. To be fair I did search the web with terms like diving not plongee but eventually found an operator through the list of PADI centres in France. Having tried emailing without any response, we were luckier when another member of the party got a response and also visited the shop as he was camped locally. The dive centre is in a small row of shops just near to the harbour. They offer a range of equipment to suit local conditions - but don't forget your boots if using a wet suit or semi dry - the only have these for sale not to rent ! We had all our own equipment so I don't know the cost of hire.

Some staff do speak English but generally they were patient with out attempts at very rusty French. Having shown our qualifications records they seemed satisfied and unlike other PADI centres I have been to we were not asked to sign away all our rights - in fact we were not asked to complete any documentation and even seemed happy just to record first names.

The timing of dives is not very conducive to 2 dives a day if you are staying any distance away - we were several hours away by car. Dives can be at 8am with the second dive at 5pm - our other halves didn't take kindly to the idea of all day being taken up with diving.

We kitted up and were driven the short distance to the slip way - better really to park near the slip and just make one journey. The water in July is warm and no need for a dry suit like I used to the amusement of everyone on board (never again will I listen to my non- diving husband's advice on what to wear. ) With 8 divers on the boat (we were a party of 4) we were rapidly transported over the bay to Cap Ferat and moored up. My advice to anyone diving with this firm is to have a good buddy to help you kit up as there wasn't any help from the dive boat staff - or maybe we just appeared so capable?

The rib moored about 40 metres out from the bank. We were told to descend to about 17 metres and follow the wall along on the right hand side until we came to a naked lady at the headland when we should return, making use of the current to help us. Sensible rules about air - turn round at 100 bar and end the dive at 50 bar. Not sure though that the Divemaster clocked the fact that Dave and I were diving on 15 litre cylinders. All 4 British divers had pony cylinders or twins whilst the French were diving on single 12's. good opportunity to look at different reg. configurations as the others were using dual regs off one cylinder.

The first ten minutes were pretty boring but then we hit the wall and the interest started. Visibility isn't brilliant but using torches we had no problems peering into all the spaces left where rock had been dumped to build up a protective sea wall. There was masses of life including a number of eels and we saw about 4 octopuses. There was plenty of fish life with a number of shoals of small fish as well as the ubiquitous wrasse. We reached the end of the wall and turned with the tide - the other pair managed to find the naked lady and admire her curves. If you like jewel anemones then this is the place for you - better even than the entrance to Tobermory Harbour the diversity is amazing - many places looking like a giant patchwork quilt. The return was easy and relaxed as we gradually headed on an upwards curve - carrying out a safety stop at 6 metres. As we headed for the surface I nearly sent up a DSMB. Not the ideal spot as we were in the midst of moored boats but there seemed to be a lot of boat traffic in the vicinity. Still plenty of air left after a 70 minute dive. A 40 metre surface swim back to the rib - as we were the last on board I thought this a bit mean - but probably links to the problems of unmarked divers surfacing. Luckily the other 2 in our party were already aboard and helped me make my usual graceless ascent into a rib whilst the French stood around laughing - I wonder if I will ever master the knack?

Fills are quick and cost 4 euros for air and slightly more for nitrox - the divesare 21 or 25 euros, depending on how far to travel. You can book night dives at extra cost.

A few days later saw us leaving our holiday accommodation at 5 am ready to dive soon after 8am. This time it was a small wreck in the middle of Arcachon Bay. Lying in about 20 meters the wreck has rolled onto one side. Very little life on the hull so concentrate on exploring the more open parts. I have never seen such big eels and the variety of fish was amazing - sorry can't name them all. Easy to see all the wreck and still ascend the shot with plenty of air left. The current can be quite strong and the wreck is quite jagged in places so be careful.

The dive centre publishes its planned series of dives for the summer months. Given what I have said it is worthwhile to dive if you are in the area but not worth a special visit. We saw other dive operators in the bay but couldn't find contact details for those. Diving is straightforward and suitable for good ocean divers and above in suitable buddy pairs.

Accommodation in the local area is plentiful with excellent campsites just down the road. Dominating the Bay is the biggest sand dune in Europe - the Dune de Pila. Worth a climb if only for the fun of getting down again. If you want isolation then there are places to stand out on the sand banks in the bay. Just down the coast a little way Bicarosse has an excellent night market with stalls selling loads of calorie laden foods - to make up for the absence of bacon butties. You can fly to Bordeaux airport and then hire a car for the hour long journey to Arcachon - or 2 hours in the middle of the day. Our diving was part of a holiday and we used Speed Ferries to cross from Dover to Boulogne - to be recommended as fairs can be as low as Ł38 return.

We (Me ,Dave, Roger and Adam) dived with;

VSM L'Oceana S-9913
14 Quai du Capitaine
Arcachon 33120
FRANCE
Phone: 33 556 839895
Fax: 33 557 520546

Wendy Cooke
Member no: A735502/0047
Darwen SAC

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