El Gouna, July 2007

by Sarah Lee

El Gouna is a self contained, purpose built resort about 22 km north of Hurghada. The low rise, Nubian style resort is built on clusters of islands interlinked with salt water lagoons. There is no natural reef, possibly something to do with the natural mangrove swamp being removed to make way for the resort, so diving is all by day boat. It is also a kite surfer's paradise with shallow beach areas especially for them.

I chose El Gouna for 2 reasons - access to Abu Nuhas and its wrecks (with a fair wind) and Golf. I chose the Steigenberger Golf and Spa resort because of the on site golf course, the aim was to get to the golf course as soon as possible after the diving, which was going to be tight as we would not be returning from the diving until 16.30 - 17.00hrs each day. The Steigenberger is described as an "exclusive hotel" by Longwoods holidays and it was certainly very nice, we had a spacious room overlooking the golf course and lagoon. Anyone staying in El Gouna can play the course for the same price.

We were booked on a half board package through a Cypriot tour operator (as that's where we currently live) and to get to El Gouna we flew Larnaca to Cairo (1 hr 15) then got a connecting flight Cairo to Hurghada (1hr 10) and had a pre arranged transfer to El Gouna (40 mins). We arrived at the unsociable hour of 00.30 finally reaching the hotel at about 02.00. Breakfast and dinner was all buffet style with a variety of evening entertainment each night from belly dancers to snake charmers. There is also the option to have a set menu dinner at one of the other restaurants if you don't want the buffet or for an extra few pounds you can have the a la carte dinner. El Gouna has a dine around the resort scheme where by guests staying on half board or All Inclusive deals can take their "credit" with them on 3 separate nights and eat at other locations around the resort. We didn't bother as it was easier to eat at the hotel but it certainly seemed like a good idea.

I chose to dive with Dive Tribe based at the Movenpick hotel, it had an excellent informative website and all the main dive holiday operators seemed to use them. I booked two 5 day dive packs (10 dives) through Regal Dive @ £140 each. This was cheaper than booking it direct with Dive Tribe on the internet which worked about £160 each. I was pleasantly surprised that Regal Dive were happy to sell me the dive packs on their own and they also sorted it all out only the week before our arrival without any problems at all.

On arrival at the hotel we had a letter from Dive Tribe informing us of our pick up time (08.00hrs) and what we needed to bring to the centre with us on our first day. We were duly picked up at 08.00hrs and taken to the Movenpick where we signed all the usual paperwork and packed our kit into boxes which were whisked away to the boat by road. The guests meanwhile got a shuttle boat ride to the Abydos Marina about 10 mins away. On arrival at the dock we checked in with the Dive Tribe team and were pointed in the right direction for the boat we are on for the day, our kit was already on board. For subsequent days the start time is around 08.30 and you are taken straight to the marina (except those guests staying at the Movenpick who go to the dive centre each morning and get the shuttle boat over to the marina). Return journeys are by minibus to the hotels from the marina or shuttle boat back to the Movenpick.

There were 3 dive tribe boats most days and we were allocated to Abydos 3 for our first day's diving. It was low season and with only about 8 divers on board we had loads of room to spread out and relax. All the sites were around 1 hr 30mins to 2hrs away so this meant lots of time to relax, sunbathe, read etc on the way out, during the surface interval which was around 1hr, and on the return journey. When you check in each morning you confirm if you would like lunch on board - at £2.50 its excellent value. Hot and cold drinks are available on all boats which must be paid for along with lunch at the end of each day. At the same time you confirm if you are diving the next day and any requirements i.e. 15lt tank, nitrox etc (nitrox 32% is provided free to certified divers and we had it all week).

El Gouna quickly disappeared into the distance due to its low rise nature (not the speed of the boat) as we chugged out towards the open sea and its reefs. The first days diving was to be on Dolphin reef, a popular spot for dive boats and snorklers because of the frequent encounters with dolphins. Before all the dives there was a comprehensive dive brief and diagram . We did 2 dives on the reef of no more than 20m. On the first dive we were to have our best encounter of the week with dolphins, a pod of 5 swam and played with us for most of the dive which was great fun. Having been checked out on our first dive we were cleared to dive in our buddy pairs independently from the guide and group. The second dive took us on a slightly different route traversing the channel between the two small reefs. Nothing too taxing after a late night.

The second day's diving found us allocated to a different boat (still not crowded) which we were to remain on for the next 3 days. Procedures and briefs were just as thorough with a few more other divers being allowed to dive without a guide. Diving was on a reef called Siyoul Kebir with a max depth of 26m.

Day 3 found us back on Dolphin reef, a bit surprising, as with access to over 40 sites I didn't really expect to be visiting dive sites twice unless they really warranted it. However, as a number of the others on the boat had not yet dived the reef I assumed it was to allow them the chance to see the dolphins. Horus, our guide altered the dive plan so that we only did the one dive here, a different route where we circumnavigated the smaller of the two reefs but with only fleeting glimpses of dolphins. For the second dive we moved away from Dolphin reef to a very nice reef called Poseidon Reef to do a drift dive.

Day 4 saw a slight drop to the wind and with excitement we noted the rib was out - could this mean a trip to Abu Nuhas ? Yes, the aim was to try to get there today. The transit time is about 1hr 45 and this took us to the Giannis D. This is an excellent dive with max depth around 25m and the top of the wreck at 4m which allows a safety stop on the wreck. After a great dive we were looking forward to visiting one of the other wrecks, after all it was a long transit out and would be a shame not to. Disappointingly the boat moved around to the back of the reef away from the wrecks and we were to do a reef dive, as requested by some of the other guests. It was a real shame to miss the chance to visit one of the other wrecks when they were so tantalisingly close but I guess that is day boat diving which are catering for all needs.

Day 5 was the Rosalie Moller - we had asked to do this at the beginning of the week so were just waiting for confirmation of numbers and weather - both were a yes so just 6 of us hopped on a dive boat and off we went to the Rosalie. En route there was the report of a whale shark up ahead which one of the other boats had stopped to look at but by the time we got there it was gone but we did get to have the pleasure of some dolphins briefly. On arrival at the Rosalie there were only 2 other boats there and both had finished their first dives so we had the wreck to ourselves. We did 2 dives on the Rosalie at 37m and 34m and were restricted by time as we were not allowed into deco, therefore, dive times were around 30 to 40 mins. Lunch was served after the second dive ensuring we would still arrive back at El Gouna around 17.00hrs. The Rosalie was really the highlight of the week, we paid an extra 35 euros each and it was well worth it even if the vis was only 5 - 6 m.

We had the last day off due to a lunch time flight the next day but some people on UK flights who were not leaving until late the next day dived again on day 6 - I considered doing one dive even though it meant staying on the boat the whole day but I eventually decided to have a lie in while Kenny played Golf - it transpired they had had pleasant, but uneventful dives back on dolphin reef again, so on reflection I was glad I went for the lie in.

During the week we had a look at the mini safari Dive tribe were offering, an overnight boat trip to the Thistlegorm with a night dive for 150 euro. Tempting as it was we couldn't justify the extra cost having paid for half board accommodation which would be standing empty. We would have preferred the option to do 3 dives a day perhaps once or twice during the week. There was no night diving offered, apparently something to do with only liveaboards being granted the appropriate licences. I think if this is something on your must do list then you should check with the dive centre before you book your holiday to see exactly what the situation is.

The water temperature was approximately 27 degrees and the air temperature was around 36 - 38. We really didn't notice the heat as we were on the boat all day and had the breeze to keep us cool. I would certainly go back at that time of year because the sites and resort are quieter and the sea is nice and warm.

Overall we did have a very relaxing week and found the diving enjoyable rather than challenging. The whole Dive Tribe set up is very well organised, the people seem genuinely happy which makes for an altogether pleasurable and very enjoyable holiday. Knowing what I know now I would have chosen to stay at the Movenpick because it s closer to downtown El Gouna, has the dive centre on site (although I understand it could be a very long walk to breakfast from some of the rooms), has access straight to the beach (which the Steigenberger doesn't) and also has a nice little bar above the Dive Tribe to have that long cool drink after a days diving.

I was sceptical about going to a purpose built resort but the diving and golf overcame this and we were pleasantly surprised. If you want a land based holiday in the Red Sea which is small, quiet, clean, well laid out, relaxed, hassle free with easy diving you should consider El Gouna.

Would we go again ? probably not, only because there are so many other places in the Red Sea to visit. We will also probably sacrifice the golf and do a liveaboard next time to maximise the underwater time and get to see more of the wrecks.

Websites:

RegalDive
Dive Tribe
Longwood Holidays


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