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BAHAMAS: EXUMA ISLAND

By Charles Stirling

Typical reef scene

Exuma Island is one of the more populated outer islands with two main islands, Great Exuma and Little Exuma, along with about 365 cays stretching over 120 miles. The northern cays and small islands are in the realm of liveaboard itineraries with at least two New Providence operators along with Stuart Cove's and Custom Aquatics visiting. Some of these are within protected marine reserves and, I hear, very good. I was land-based, visiting Exuma Scuba located at the Club Peace & Plenty in George Town in mid May. The distance to the northern areas prevents Exuma Scuba from diving the walls and reefs available up there.

Gray angelfish I wouldn't rate what I was able to do as great diving, but it offers some good or even very good diving for a new diver or anyone simply wanting easy relaxed dives. If you are interested in Caribbean coral it is also worth considering as the coral seemed in generally good condition. There are more advanced diving opportunities here if they can be organised. On my visit Tom Sutton, who runs the diving operation, was away and both of his dive guides were not able to do this (I was the only diver much of the time, so this was partly understandable). Being the only diver it didn't seem at all crowded on the dive sites.

DIVING CONDITIONS
Temperatures generally 27 to 28°C in water. I wore a 5mm wetsuit but had 2 dives with others only wearing ordinary swimwear and a teeshirt (OK, for 1 or 2 dives, but they got a bit chilly, particularly when back on the boat).
Visibility 15 to 25m, the lower visibility areas were due to white coral sand suspended in the water so it was still bright, and maybe I am being conservative in estimating this.
Nassau grouper, becoming endangered throughout Caribbean Depths varied from 9 to 15m. If you do get on one of the Blue Hole dives it would be deeper.
Where: sites were a 10 to 30 minute boat ride away. When I was there I considered it very calm, wavelets a few centimetres high, and the dive guide said it was a bit rough. George Town is sheltered by Stocking Island and most of the sites visited were along its outer edge or off cays running just north of it.
What: coral mounds and patch reefs with white coral sands between. No wrecks! The coral, both a good variety of types of hard and soft, was in good condition. Fish life was generally good with Nassau grouper, yellowtail snapper, queen angelfish butterflyfish, coney, squirrelfish, and the occasional barracuda. Cleaner shrimp associated with almost feather-like anemones and the occasional cleaning stations. Christmas tree worms living in some corals and even Spiny lobster were plentiful in some locations, a variety of sponges were all to be seen. Yes, some good biology to be seen.
When: November to end of April is the busy season, May to August is quieter (to very quiet) and closed in September. June to September is hurricane season but they seldom experience them and the seas can be exceptionally calm at this time.

* Diving was all from a boat. They have access to a variety of boats, one set up as a dive boat but with just me, or if a few are diving they often used a faster open speedboat. With both of these access was easy by a short ladder. The speedboat didn't carry the oxygen kit but safety was considered and I would have rated it as adequate for the conditions and locations. Normally dives were expected to last about 45 minutes, but I suggested that was a bit short so no time restraints were put on me. It did mean when my air lasted longer than the guide he surfaced and followed me about by snorkelling. Permanent buoys were not used as they acted as magnets for local fisherman who depleted stocks, but the sand valleys offered secure anchoring causing little marine disturbance. When diving the boat would be left unattended. I was offered 2 dives a day, in slightly busier periods two morning and one afternoon dives are more normally offered.
School of blue striped grunt * The small dive shop and kit room was next to the hotel with the boat collecting divers from a few metres away. Facilities on this dock were available for setting up kit and washing kit. Cylinders and BCs were taken assembled on the boat to save hassle, and assistance would be available if wanted.
* Kit hire was available, check current prices. Cylinders were all A-clamp only. BCs and regulators looked in reasonable condition but one person with hired kit had a free flowing regulator which couldn't be fixed on the speedboat (on the dive boat the tools would have been available to do the simple adjustment necessary). The range of hire wetsuit sizes was limited so if you are an "unusual" size its best to bring your own (they do not have huge numbers of visitors so again this would be expected). I took my own kit.
* Learning to dive could be done in the hotel pool or off the beach in waist deep water which seemed a much more interesting but still very safe way of learning than pool sessions
Snorkelling could be done off local beaches or off Stocking Island with great beaches.

Besides the Diving
Club Peace & Plenty had two bars, pool The Club Peace & Plenty had two bars, pool, the diving business and 32 rooms. It was comfortable but not luxury, attracted many return UK visitors and was near the main part of the small town of George Town. A few miles away was the associated Peace & Plenty Beach Inn which seemed a little more up-market, more beach, but was a drive away (free shuttle). The dive shop may be moving up to that location.

Basket market down the road from hotel This is not a location for wild discos, casinos or extravagant shopping though a casino and up-market tourist resort was being built at the far end of Little Exuma a couple of hours drive away. In George Town bikes and a various types of boats could be hired, or bonefishing organised. Kayaks were available, and even a few day kayak eco-tour could be taken. I would suggest this location as one for gentile relaxing with diving as a secondary activity if you're an experienced diver or a good place to learn to dive in pleasant surroundings. Many of the visitors seemed to be couples, so it could be the place to introduce a non-diving partner to the sport.

Cave diving can also be organised with Tom and the reason I missed him on my trip was because he was setting up a special deal with Stella Maris Resort Club on Long Island which offers more adventurous diving. This would entail a private flight over to the other island but could allow a good mix of diving.

Blue tang Close to a spiny lobster COSTS: check for current prices, but
Diving: Morning two-tank boat dive $75
SCUBA Certification Course w/2 dives $450
Rooms: $135 to $200 per night

I flew by British Airways to Nassau, Bahamas then with Bahamasair on to Exuma and $25 for taxi to the hotel (no free pickup at the airport).

CONTACTS
www.exumascuba.com it will have links to the hotels
Email: info@exumascuba.com
My trip was organised by Discover the Bahamas in Surrey who may be able to arrange better rates along with flights.
Telephone: 01737 218810
Email: sales@discover-the-bahamas.co.uk

All photos by Charles Stirling

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