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GALICIA, SPAIN

A Dive Report with a Difference!

By Chris Gait




























We have now had a full year living here in Galicia running our guesthouse and diving in the Rias Baixas of Galicia NW Spain.

So this is my report on the diving here.

Located near Portugal and south of Finesterre, the Rias Baixas have their own microclimate that is a lot dryer and warmer than the northern coast of Galicia.
Similar to fjords, but formed by plate movement the 'rias' have a rocky coast line with sandy coves of white sand.
Across the entrances to the Ria de Vigo and Ria de Pontevedra lie large granite islands giving them protection from the Atlantic gales. These islands, along with the island of Salvora in the third Ria, Ria de Arosa, are marine national parks, harbouring masses of wildlife.

The diving.

There are over 400 wrecks from Roman to U-boot, archaeological sites, marine nature reserves, literally 100s of good sites. Here are a few starting in the north working southwards.

Area Gorda in the Ria de Arosa, three small headlands between sandy beaches, provide excellent shore dives. Large boulder fields on the seaward side are a haven to all kinds of fish and plant life. With a maximum of 10msw and easy access, these sites are ideal for that shake down dive or beginners. Easy access from the car park and a friendly hotel opposite with all facilities.
Area Bascuas, Ria de Arosa; Lies a wreck of a large steel fishing boat on a sandy bottom. Approx 12msw to sea bed, best done with the inflatable and is a good first wreck dive. It's an interesting dive as it is still fairly intact. Easy access from the car park and a bar opposite with all facilities.

Beluso and the Caballito de Bueu, Ria de Pontevedra; Beluso was the home port of Benito de Souto the last pirate! Here in the bay he learnt to smuggle all kinds of goods ashore! There are several ways of diving here. The shore dives through the kelp and on to a reef that runs to the Caballito (a large rock that looks like a horse, you'll need a lot of imagination to see it!). We also take the boat to the Caballito and explore the gullies of the reef. Numerous boats have come to rest on to this reef and every year new artefacts are discovered.

The Mourisca light house, Ria de Pontevedra; This is one of my favourites. The lighthouse is at the tip of a reef in 7msw. We drop into the water by the lighthouse following the reef out to the north where it drops to 22msw. The seabed is shingle here and is home to some large Rays. Keeping the reef on the left just follow it round and up. As the depth decreases you'll come across the foundations of an earlier lighthouse with some wreckage. Soon you'll be back at the base of the lighthouse an ideal place for a safety stop. Best dived on the flood to high tide for the best viz. On the nearby beach there is a little "chirringito" bar shack that cooks up delicious seafood snacks!

The Laguna, Ria de Pontevedra;
We call it the garden. As the name suggests it is a lagoon with a max depth of 4.5 msw. It is very safe and sheltered and that's why it is an absolute haven for sea life. If its photographic opportunities you want with near perfect viz, this is the place. If you swim slowly enough the small fry will use you as cover to move from rock to rock. At high water mackerel and bass come in to feed on the fry, darting in and out in silver flashes. If the tide is right you can get through the reef and explore the seaward side that drops to 16msw. There are showers on the beach and a beach bar. But no loos.




The Bateas, Rias de Pontevedra and Vigo;
There are 100s of these shellfish rafts. Each one with 100s of mussel ropes hanging from them.
Unlike conventional fish farms where the seabed around them is full of silt. The area below the bateas is covered in shells.
They make an interesting dive as each one is a separate eco system where a different species has taken up residence. On one dive we saw a shoal of rainbow trout, obviously escapees from a local farm!

The shafts of sun light shining through the ropes makes a very atmospheric dive.
The big cement blocks that hold them in place are home to some big congers.
Appox 20msw. Boat dive.






The cement wreck, Ria de Vigo; this is a well broken up wreck, but interestly the cargo of barrels of lime have solidified and the wooden barrels have wasted away leaving perfect moulds of the inside of the barrels! These are found on and near the reef that claimed the vessel. Searching through the kelp you'll find colourful wrasse and crabs. 16msw.

The IVY, Ria de Vigo; this is a 200 mtr merchant man that ran aground with a full cargo of iron ore. It has been salvaged and cut into three. Two sections have been re-floated and taken out of the bay to Nigran where they sank as artificial reefs. They are rarely dived, as there are strong currents. The third section is still where it came to grief by the small Estellas islands off Bayona. This is a very good dive as the wreck is recent and still in a reasonable shape. The dive usually starts at the reef 12msw and drops down to around 22msw.

Nearby there is a deep wreck at 40msw also fairly intact but I haven't managed to dive it yet.




The Cies Islands, Ria de Vigo; these have to be the jewel in the crown, not are they only a splendid dive site, but above water, they offer a marvellous landscape of high craggy mountains dropping into the lagoon with its unique wildlife only found on Cies.
Taking one of the big ribs we first have to land on Cies to report to the Rangers that will have our permits to dive that day. Back on board in a few minutes we can be at one of the many dive sites famous for the abundant sea life. Diving takes place either on the inside of the ria its shallower and has plenty of reefs. Or we can go to the Atlantic side if the swell permits to dive one of the many pinnacles and gullies, again plenty of sea life to see but the depth is greater max around 40msw. There are no dive areas where galleons have floundered. And the near by bird sanctuary is also forbidden in late spring.

The Cies and Ons islands are a fantastic place for non divers to meet up with the divers and have a picnic on the beach between dives or at the end of the day. If you really want to, leave your kit on the rib and we will take it back for you and you can return on one of the regular ferries running to the mainland.
They have several bars and a restaurant with all the facilities.
A great place for kids of any age.






The list could go on and on, but if you imagine Milford haven, Cornwall and the Channel Islands all mixed up together you'd come close to what Galicia has to offer.
Water temperature ranges from 14C in the winter to 22C in the summer. I find that a dry suit is too hot in the summer but ok for the rest of the year.

The boats
We charter two skippers, both divers who know the area well and will advise where best to go on the day. They are also used to doing things the BSAC way!
They will do their up most to ensure you have an enjoyable and safe day.

When to come;
From April to November are the best months. Though we have had really good weather in January.

Shore side; this is where the Spanish come for their holidays, its definitely not the Costas with miles of pubs and discos. Having said that it's not short of bars and restaurants serving mainly local cuisine. Seafood is obviously the main attraction as the many fishing ports scattered around the coast keep the restaurants well supplied. But try the beef from the Galician mountains, mostly organic, it's excellent.

Accommodation - well, there are a number of guesthouses like ours or hotels and pensions.

To get here Ryanair flies from Stansted, Nottingham EMA or Liverpool to Santiago de Compostela but also consider Oporto as its only 2 hours away. My best deal so far is £38.00 return!

I hope you have found this useful and decide to give Galicia a try. Obviously we would like you to stay in our guesthouse and let us organise your diving for you. But we would be very happy to help you in any way we can.

Chris

Casa Quireza Casa Quireza
or contact us on casaquireza@telefonica.net


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