ROCK STEADY - DIVING GIBRALTAR

by Jon Gunns

Gibraltar is an unusual diving destination. Almost undiscovered by British divers, it offers a wealth of wreck, historical and scenic dives with warm(-ish) water within striking distance for a holiday.

HISTORY
The Rock of Gibraltar is part of the sea floor upended by powerful geological processes and dropped at the southern tip of Europe to form one of the Pillars of Hercules guarding the entrance to the Mediterranean. Underwater, the topography follows that of the land with a steeply shelving seabed. Neanderthal man lived in the caves around Gibraltar between 120,000 and 60,000 years ago and the Rock was visited by Phoenician and Roman sea-farers who left offerings to the Gods there.

The Muslim invasion of Europe began in Gibraltar in 711 and the Moors dominated for 700 years until 1462 when the Spanish captured the Rock. In 1704, a combined Anglo-Dutch force captured Gibraltar and the Treaty of Utrecht in 1813 ceded Gibraltar to the Crown of Great Britain. Recognising its importance as a Naval base, Britain maintained a presence on the Rock.

More recently, General Eisenhower master-minded the invasion of North Africa from Gibraltar and the naval base and airstrip assumed great importance during the period. The war time period also saw attacks against shipping in the harbour by Italian underwater chariots/human torpedoes and the exploits of Buster Crabb and other Royal Naval divers in countering the threat.

DIVE SITES
Given its geography and history, it is not surprising that Gibraltar offers many exciting dive sites.

SS EXCELLENT is a 1600 ton, 260' long iron steamer. Built in 1880, she sank after a series of collisions in 1888 and now lies broken in half and upside down in 30 metres of water. Still in good condition, the wreck is covered in spectacular soft corals. With large access holes in the middle of the hull and at both ends, and with fixed lines laid through the cavernous interior, this is an easy penetration dive for beginners.

SS ROSSLYN is a huge freighter lying 20 metres below the surface and covered in sea life. Starting to deteriorate, she still makes a very attractive dive.

The PILOT BOAT is a more challenging dive at 34 metres, and close to a shipping channel. Nevertheless, this small wreck has much to offer, including a resident octopus.

A number of ships have been deliberately sunk to form artificial reefs. The Camp Bay Conservation Project includes a cable layer sunk alongside a barge in 15 metres of water. We dived here by day and night, catching sight of octopus, eel, spider crab, lobster and hermit crab. Turning our torches off and agitating the water initiated a scintillating display of phosphorescence. This wreck, along with many other sites in Gibraltar, can also be dived from the shore.

The SEAHAWK is a recently sunk fishing vessel. Sitting upright in 30 metres, the wreck has not yet been colonised by sealife but offers the chance of simple penetration and is a good site for photography.

Scenic dives can be found all around Gibraltar but the 2 most popular are Europa Reef and Los Pecos, both off the southern tip. Europa Reef lies in 15 - 40 metres with extensive marine life and offers the chance to look for Phoenician and Roman anchors. Los Pecos is a spectacular reef with a vertical wall dropping from 20 - 60 metres. Local knowledge should be sought before attempting these dives as the current can be strong.

We dived on 2 sites of historical interest. Inkwells is the name given to an area of the coast where Royal Naval ships were resupplied at sea. A number of 19th Century inkwells have been found at this 15 metre deep site, hence the unusual name. By lightly fanning the sand, we turned up a number of artefacts including a very old wine bottle. The Cannon Pile is exactly that, a pile of cannon from a burnt-out barge from the Spanish siege of 1705. Now overgrown, they still retain their distinctive shape although shifting sands mean that they may not always be visible.

Rosia Bay was the original naval anchorage and the site of disembarkation of Nelson's body after the Battle of Trafalgar. With a flat sandy bottom gently sloping to 10 metres, this is an ideal site to refresh rusty skills.

Most of the sites we dived were on the western and southern coast. The eastern coast also has a number of sites, including 2 Sherman tanks in 3 metres of water and a number of crashed planes at the end of the runway. General Wladyslaw Sikorski, wartime Polish leader, was killed when his Liberator aircraft crashed here. Although the bulk of his aircraft was recovered, one propeller was lost. An expedition was mounted in 1978 and a propeller was found, although this later proved to be from a Dakota or B17. This has not stopped local publications claiming that the propeller, now displayed near East Beach, is in fact from his aeroplane! The wreck of an Italian chariot is also reputed to lie just outside the harbour but we did not attempt to find or dive it.

DIVING CONDITIONS
Visibility during our trip was between 5 - 10 metres although local knowledge suggests that 10 metres + is more typical in the summer.

Water temperature varied between 20 degrees on the surface and 14 degrees at depth. I wore an all in one 5 mm semi-dry suit and was chilly at times. Frequent thermoclines/haloclines were encountered where colder water mixed with warmer upper levels. In the winter, 7 mm semi-dry suits or dry suits are recommended.

Tidal flows within Gibraltar Bay are unpredictable and care must be taken to assess conditions before diving commences. Jet skiers and power boaters are also unpredictable. Boat cover, A flags and SMBs are recommended.

A wide range of sea life was evident on our dives. Octopus was common-place although wary. We saw dolphin on the surface but not during dives. Sharks were seen near East Beach during our trip but we did not spot any.

OTHER ACTIVITIES
Gibraltar has a wealth of interesting sites to visit on land. The Museum has a wide ranging display, including relics from Phoenician and Roman sea-farers. A cable car runs from the town to the top of the Rock and provides access to the breath-taking St Michael's cave as well as to various fortifications and the famous Gibraltar apes. The siege tunnels are a visitor attraction, recreating the 1779-1783 Spanish siege and the Tower of Homage is one of the best-preserved parts of the Moorish Castle dating back more than 6 centuries. Tours can be arranged of the 32 miles of tunnels that turn the Rock into a giant Gorgonzola.

Off-shore, dolphin watching is popular with commercial craft 'guaranteeing' the opportunity to watch dolphins above and below the water in Gibraltar Bay.

Gibraltar boasts a hectic social life, mainly centred on the pubs around Casemates Square. Eating out was similarly priced to UK with the 'eat as much as you can' at Pizza Hut being particularly popular.

REFERENCE SECTION
Weather: Gibraltar has warm, humid summers. Diving is conducted all year round but winter can be unpredictable with the threat of strong winds and heavy rain.
Currency: UK pounds are legal tender, as are Euros. UK bank cash machines are available but provide cash in Gibraltar pounds. Gibraltar pounds should be exchanged before returning as it is rumoured that you will not receive a one for one exchange in UK.
Dive Shops:
NAUI Dive Centre (NAUI and BSAC Instructors)
Sheppard's Marina
Gibraltar
Tel: Gibraltar 350 - 73616
Email: divehire1st@gibnynex.gi

Dive Charters (PADI 5 Star Diving Centre)
Marina Bay
Gibraltar
Tel: Gibraltar 350 - 45649
www.divegib.gi

Air Travel: We flew with Monarch from Luton. Three airlines run regular flights to Gibraltar and it is worth shopping around as we were quoted a variety of prices, eventually paying £180 each for a return trip. You might also consider flying to a Spanish airport and travelling overland.
Accommodation: A wide variety of accommodation is available in Gibraltar. Emile Youth Hostel offers double rooms from £27 per night while two bedroom apartments can be found for £355 per week.
Gibraltar Tourist Board: The Gibraltar Tourist Board can provide details of a wide range of accommodation and may also be able to offer combined flight/accommodation deals. The Board has offices in London and can be contacted at:
Gibraltar Tourist Board, Arundel Great Court, 179 The Strand, London, WC2R 1EH
Tel: 020 7836 0777 Fax: 020 7240 6612
Email: giblondon@aol.com
Website: www.gibraltar.gi

August 2002.