BORNEO TO BE WILD.........

SOME REALLY EXCITING SITES

Selecting somewhere different for a dive holiday is never easy. My aim has always been to combine a more unusual location with both adequate support for divers and good value. On this occasion I was lucky enough to discuss my ideas with the Managing Director of a travel company who shared my enthusiasm for diving and was prepared to develop the original concept over many months. The resulting package which 14 of us enjoyed (12 BS-AC and 2 PADI divers) was exceptional.

Having done my initial research, I planned to visit Layang Layang attracted by its reputation for excellent diving in a truly remote location. However, as I understood that Layang Layang was a rather spartan location, I also wanted to spend some time after the main diving holiday on a "green island" for some R & R. Initial attempts for find somewhere that fitted the bill were not successful, so the plan was to return to mainland Borneo after the visit to Layang Layang. Nevertheless, a superb location was to emerge at almost the eleventh hour - Lankayan - a tiny jewel of an island off the North East coast of Borneo. With its excellent macro diving, Lankayan proved a perfect foil to the large pelagics found at Layang Layang. Futhermore, the transfer across Sabah provided us with the opportunity to divert into the wilds of Borneo's untouched rainforest and a chance to see exotic animals in the wild.

Layang Layang
The hostage taking from Sipadan in May 2000 had not happened when Layang Layang was originally chosen. Before the raid on Sipadan, the island's diving was world-renowned, but it was also becoming rather crowded with a series of centres jostling for space on the tiny verdant isle. It was also a fairly expensive location. Layang Layang across the other side of Borneo seemed an imaginative alternative, especially as it had the prospect of schooling hammerhead sharks if we picked the right time of year.

Layang Layang is a coral atoll 200 miles of coast of Sabah (the land below the wind) between Borneo and Vietnam. Part of The Spratleys, a chain of mainly sub-marine islands said to have mineral and strategic significance. The island on which the resort lies is man-made. There is a small naval base there, but it also boasts a small landing strip enabling divers to visit a genuinely remote spot right in the middle of the South China Sea. Layang Layang accordingly acts as a magnet attracting many large marine species, as well as thousands of sea birds. However, I'll add that the stories of a pervasive stench of guano are pure myth.

Getting there is not easy. Fourteen of us flew out from Heathrow overnight to Kuala Lumpur and then on to Kota Kinabalu, capital of Sabah on Borneo, the world's third largest island. We spent a second night there, before an early morning private flight to Layang Layang Island Resort by Boctok a small Russian airline. It takes about an hour on a 22-seater aircraft. Mind you since everything has to be flown out to the island, any seats not required are folded to provide extra luggage space.

Arriving in early morning, and banking steeply round the island, 100,000 terns take off... but before I had mentally resolved how the pilot was going to avoid the mother of all bird strikes, we landed and taxied to within 40 metres of the hotel front door. Alighting from the aircraft we were greeted by Richard, the resort manager and his staff.

Layang Layang is a peaceful resort and well kept. The island is essentially flat, although there are some imported trees used as an attempt at landscaping. The hotel is the only non-military building. It is fairly small with a maximum capacity of about 120, though there were only about 40 guests there when we were there. It is constructed around an irregular shaped swimming pool. It features a bar/lounge, reception, dining facilities and accommodation wings. The dive centre is a few moments stroll away and the jetty just beyond.

Staff are friendly and attentive and look after you well. Five meals a day interspersed with the diving make it a memorable feast. "Little" breakfast (cereals, toast) - dive - main breakfast - dive - lunch - dive - tea (sandwiches, doughnuts, cakes) - possible night dive - dinner...... ah, that's the life! I invariably lose weight on a dive holiday.... not this time.

We usually dived three times a day - 8 a.m., 11 a.m. and 3p.m. Typically diving for 45/50 minutes, although I did do one hour-long dive. There was an optional night dive for a small extra fee. However, it is not worth being dropped in the dark into the lagoon immediately behind the hotel - at least go down to the far end of the inner lagoon where you may get an interesting and different shallower dive.

There is a range of dive sites at Layang Layang, although to be honest each is a continuum of the previous one. Names include - The Point, Tunnel, Crack Reef Runway, Old Channel, New Channel, Wrasse Strip, D Wall, Valley, Snapper Ledge, Gorgonian Forest, Shark's Cave, Navigator Lane and two "apparent" new ones: Coral Café and Mid Reef. Well, D Wall is very different from The Point, but some are a little difficult to distinguish apart.

The coral at Layang Layang is exceptional. There is very little damage or bleaching to hard corals and soft corals, gorgonia etc. are in places superb. The visibility of course varies like anywhere in the world according to weather and sea states. However, it too was exceptional whilst we were there. It reached distances that were difficult to judge, but they were certainly in excess of 50 metres.

Marine life was diverse and plentiful and we were treated to some superb sights. One of the main reasons for our trip was to see hammerhead sharks and other large pelagics. We definitely were not disappointed.

Apart from the final dive, which was done within the lagoon, I recall seeing at least one shark every dive - and often quite a few. Undoubtedly though, the highlight was the morning when, off The Point out into the blue, we saw schooling hammerheads. What I described at the time as "wall to wall sharks", perhaps 200+ swam gently past us, turned and returned, before drifting out of view. Quite an awe-inspiring sight - from immature sharks to those in excess of 2.5 metres, these scalloped hammerheads were spectacular.

In fact, we saw scalloped hammerheads on several occasions, but we also saw numerous white tips and grey reef sharks. Sightings of leopard sharks are also common, though Threshers are rarer. We would often find grey reef sharks at the bottom of a "fish ball", a gyrating melée of thousands of fish, usually large jacks, in an elongated vortex stretching from near the surface to perhaps 30 metres down. Apparently the fish do this for some kind of protection to confuse predators.

On the main reef itself the life was prolific with many hundreds of different species of attractive fish, from the tiniest to sizeable creatures such as the strange bumphead parrotfish and "pickhandled" barracuda, as well as shoals of trevally and tuna, oriental sweetlips and solitary groupers. One morning we were accompanied by a sizeable manta, which soared back and forth for five minutes or more just above us. We saw other rays, too, including several blotched stingrays.

There was a wide variety of corals, sponges and other creatures on the reef and it paid to spend much time closely examining everything - some of the more unusual creatures which we spotted, such as frogfish, were difficult to locate. There were many colourful nudibranchs too. We also came across several large moray eels, including a white-mouthed moray, lurking in crevasses in the reef. Bannerfish, butterfly fish, angelfish and emperor fish are, of course, numerous as are the smaller fish - anemone fish, damsels, gobies, dottybacks etc. There were a few lionfish, banded prawns, and a wide array of puffers, box and porcupine fish. You can find colourful clams here too, some quite giant, some minute.

During six days diving we encountered several hawksbill turtles and watched them feeding, resting or gracefully swimming around. Less attractive were the triggerfish. Both titan and yellow margin triggerfish were present in some numbers, with the latter being quite vicious. They were breeding in one or two areas towards the top of the reef. Although fascinating to watch, as they courted or constructed their "nests", they are highly territorial and would fearlessly attack anything that came near. I am told by a buddy that I had my fins attacked on one occasion and on another I actually had to hit a trigger fish with my camera to protect myself! One guest in the hotel returned from her last dive of the day with quite a "chunk" bitten out of her leg, perhaps the size of 50 pence piece. She did dive the next day though.

Most of the dives were gentle with little current, but there were one or two dives where the stream was more pronounced and we had a gentle or even fair paced drift dive. However, I don't remember it being fast enough anywhere to spoil what we were trying to see. Besides it gives added variety. So too do the various shelves and differing escarpments of some of the walls.

We were videoed on two dives by Scubadoo, who had their cameraman Jon resident on site. We watched his edited highlights that evening in the bar.

Divemaster John Lo was both friendly and helpful. Observant, as all good divemasters should be, he soon had the measure of us and knew we were an experienced and confident group, not prone to any excesses. He knew we'd look after each other and that we would quickly learn and apply the centre diving protocols. Our dive briefs became an explanation of what to expect on the dive and topography and John was able to cover the usual safety advice with his parting expression "... plus the same old shit!" Mind you the rule of 40 metre maximum depth and closely watching your dive computer to avoid decompression is very wise, considering that the nearest recompression chamber is in Singapore, hundreds of miles away and requires a specially chartered emergency helicopter.

The dive boats at Layang Layang are some of the best I have come across. There are fairly spacious, with tank racks down both sides behind the ample seating. Perhaps 14 per boat plus divemaster and skipper makes it a wee bit tight, but it wasn't uncomfortable. 8 or 10 would give generous space. The boats are powerful and high speed and all carry oxygen and radios. They were stable in the water and with a good gantry designed into the side of boat, entry was by a short stride perhaps a metre to sea level. Recovery was easy too, but our experienced and friendly skipper was always happy to help.
It is perhaps interesting to compare Layang Layang to Sipadan. John Lo has been a divemaster at both and said he much preferred Layang Layang due to the superior visibility and quality of the coral. I suspect it is more congested at Sipadan too, though you will undoubtedly get more turtles there.

Well back to the hotel to relax - and be pampered. During our stay, Keith had a birthday and was serenaded by hotel staff and presented with a huge cake. Furthermore, Jane, who did her 100th dive on the trip, was presented with a photographic book on LL and personalised commemorative certificate - nice touches. Within the hotel you can find table tennis, pool, and darts. Video films are shown every evening linking with TV in all rooms. These are air-conditioned. They are very comfortable, though not what might be described as luxury, which I suspect would be misplaced for diving. They feature wooden décor and each has a small balcony. You can even have a personal massage (no, not the modern Thai type!) in you room, just for added invigoration! There is a small library in the bar too. It is not really a place for non-divers unless you are just prepared to lie in the sun and not do much else!

We were naturally sad to leave Layang Layang after seven days.... but we had more adventures to come.

Eco Trips
Returning to mainland Borneo by mid morning, we transferred from the "old" terminal at Kota Kinabalu to the main airport and then flew up to the old provincial capital of Sandakan across the other side of the island. We then transferred by coach to a stunningly beautiful and relaxing spot - Sepilok Nature Resort. This peaceful retreat is just next door to the world famous Sepilok orang-utan sanctuary. We arrived in time for a late but excellent lunch on the wooden veranda overlooking the well-stocked lake. Adjacent is a scattering of highly attractive chalets in a verdant setting, landscaped from the surrounding jungle. Later we walked to the sanctuary next door and into the steamy jungle to watch the orangs being fed. Semi-wild and in the process of being rehabilitated, these fascinating creatures have been orphaned or displaced, then brought to the sanctuary and slowly "re-introduced" to their natural habitat. It is simple, when they can fully fend for themselves; they cease returning to the feeding station.

Next day our coach must have driven the best part of 80 miles further into the jungle, latterly via dirt tracks until we arrived at the banks of quite a major river. We transferred to motorised canoe for the last few miles up river to Sukau Rainforest Lodge. A secluded spot literally set into the jungle and very much themed and sensitive to its environment. The noise of the animals, birds and insects reaches fever pitch at times. This is something of an "experience not to be missed" and very much a genuine taste of nature.

In the late afternoon we re-embarked our canoes and set off up a nearby tributary on a river safari. All fascinating - grey and long-tailed makats, proboscis monkeys, large monitor lizards, ornate birds, wild boar and crocodiles for those who went out by night. We returned at dusk and watched a magnificent rhinoceros hornbill fly in to roost. What a treat all round.

Earlier in the day we had been greeted by Joseph, the larger than life centre manager, who had briefed us and told us if we wanted dinner that evening, we had to wear the customary dress - sarongs. So, after our safari, all suitable attired, we had a relaxing meal in the open soaking up the jungle atmosphere. Lit by lanterns fuelled with recycled cooking oil and protected from insects by special smoke exuding from ceramic pots beneath the table, we chatted over our "really wild" experiences. Then time to relax over a beer or two, before off to bed amid the sound of monkeys barking nearby and a hundred sounds I couldn't possible place....

It must be said that Borneo is a fantastic location to combine a wide range of "eco trips" with your dive holiday. Most divers will be in tune enough with nature to see this as a fantastic opportunity not to miss. Why travel half way round the world and miss out for the sake of literally a few tens of pounds? The more enterprising, or should I say intrepid of our group, stayed on several extra days at the end of our "package". Two went trekking deep into the jungle at Danum Valley and four made the epic climb of Mount Kinabalu. Certainly that too was a memorable experience and a fantastic sight to watch sunrise at 14,000 plus feet.

Lankayan
Returning to Sandakan from Sukau, we crossed to the yacht club where we were again to embark on water transport. This time a high speed launch, which would take us the 40 or 50 miles off shore to another remote island - Lankayan. What a gorgeous spot! A true taste of paradise.

This jewel of an island lies an hour's run plus out of Sandakan. Although the mainland lies closer at 20 miles, the nearest landfall is in dense jungle. Looking east you can see the edge of The Philippines - well one distant island, a dot on the horizon. Lankayan is an idyllic tropical island. Before we arrived I had promised one of our party she wouldn't see a single foot print on beach - it was almost true! A beautiful green island, surrounded by reef and tastefully and modestly developed with but a handful of attractive wooden chalets. There was just one other guest there when we arrived, a young Swiss diver. Apparently at fourteen, we were the largest single party that had ever been there.

Lankayan was an excellent foil to the mid ocean diving at Layang Layang. It is one of a large series of islands in the Sulu Sea running along the North East coast of Sabah and lies a little north of Sipadan. It is nothing like as developed though and is much more peaceful. You can stroll round the entire island along the clean white sand in 15-20 minutes. It boasts 30 to 40 dive sites all reasonable close by and these include two small wrecks and one artificial reef recently created by the deliberate sinking of another vessel. Sites include Moray Reef, Mosquito Wreck, Lycia's Garden, Lost Reef, Froggie Fort, Froggie Lair and Mel's Rock, as well as many more. Where we had large pelagics at Layang Layang, we had an excellent range of macro diving here. It is really only just opening up as a dive centre and undoubtedly its reputation will grow.

Although Lankayan does not have the visibility of Layang Layang, it was good enough and we did have the added variation to our diving. Visibility was affected by closer proximity to the mainland and tropical storms whilst we were there. There is still some illegal trawling and other fishing in the area, but this I was reassured by Ricky, the resort Manager, would be stamped out shortly, especially as the newly created and nearby marine reserve became actively policed. Most sites are a few minutes ride away in their modern dive boats.

We only had three days diving and 8 dives in total at Lankayan, not enough to do it justice, but just enough to sample its pleasures. I recommend that anyone staying here spend at least another day or two. There was more variety here than at Layang Layang and both our night dives were excellent.

The quality of the corals is high and there is good variety too. Diving is not necessarily very deep either, so one can spend a long time exploring the many shapes and forms and the variety of smaller marine life. There are some larger creatures, notably coral cat sharks and bamboo sharks - perhaps one to one and a half metres in size. Some of the group saw nurse sharks too. We also came across some pretty tame cuttlefish that put on an extraordinary display for us over 15 or so minutes. Sharp eyes can also pick out a few bright blue and yellow ribbon eels and a number of larger morays - I saw one with green head and mottled pink body.

There are numerous nudibranchs here and shoals of snappers, fusiliers and batfish. Small groups of barracuda patrol the outer edges of some reefs and there are a few larger lone specimens too. Diving at night was very good, especially on Froggie Fort where we saw numerous small sharks, spotted lagoon rays, lionfish, groupers etc. We also saw several sleeping parrotfish on our Lankayan Wreck night dive. Under close inspection you will find many delicate crabs and prawns. Around the other side of the island is the Mosquito Wreck, believed to be a Japanese fleet support vessel sunk during the Second World War.

On our second morning we set out to the neighbouring island of Bellian about 30 minutes away. We dived mid channel en route and went ashore on this deserted island, soon to become another small dive centre with 10 or so chalets. Little has been dived here and we were lucky enough to do a virgin dive on a nearby reef. The staff at Lankayan, whose company will run Bellian, had told us the night before that we could have the honour of naming the reef. As we came from several different clubs, we eventually decided on "Friends Reef" as a suitable name. If you visit Friends Reef today, you will find pristine hard and soft corals in many colours shades and hues - browns, greens, blues, yellows, reds and oranges. A very beautiful spot.

There are turtles in the area around Lankayan and there is a small hatchery on the island. We witnessed the wonder of one coming ashore to lay her eggs. There are also huge shoals of fish near the jetty leading to the dive centre and actually under the centre which stands on stilts a hundred and fifty metres off shore. In the crystal clear water you can see small blacktip sharks. Though the best view of black tips is when they are fed at high tide from the veranda at the back of the central lounge and dining area. Squid and other fishy leftovers are dropped into the water that instantly boils with dozens of young sharks in feeding frenzy.

Again we were well looked after during our dives, though this time we were split into two groups. Our divemaster, Amillson, better known as Mel, was knowlegable, friendly and informative. Safety and security are good. The Malaysian government has stationed a small squad of soldiers and several police on the island for tourist protection following the hostage taking from Sipadan last year. Their presence is reassuring though almost totally unobtrusive. On the few occasions we bumped into any of them they were respectful and friendly. These lucky guys must have one of the best barracks in the world!

All the staff at Lankayan were hugely friendly and nothing was too much for them. The food was good and varied, being served buffet style like elsewhere. The chalets scattered round the southern half of the island were extremely comfortable. Above all though, the lasting impression should be one of tranquillity and relaxation. Perhaps the most exacting thing one had to do was remove one's shoes on entry into any of the buildings and wash your feet in the basin of water left outside each front door. If the strain of that is all too much, then sit on the wooden veranda, iced beer in hand, gazing out to the horizon and watch the distant moon rise like a giant inflating marsh mallow.... I defy you not to have a wonderfully contented smile on your lips.

We were all sad to leave, especially as almost the entire island walked to the end of the jetty to wave farewell as we returned to Sandakan for our flight back to Kota Kinabalu. Here we spent a final night at the Pacific Sutera hotel, before returning to Kuala Lumpur and Heathrow. A truly memorable trip.

DETAILS & CONTACTS
No report would be complete without mentioning Phil Dobson, Managing Director of Touchdown World Travel Service whose personal interest and collaboration made this trip so memorable. An experienced scuba diver himself, he deserves our very special thanks for developing themes and ideas and for ensuring the trip fitted together so well.

Our trip involved:

Departed 28th March, returned 12th April 2001. 14 nights, 15 days. 27 dives;

International and internal flights with Malaysian Airlines;
Flights between Kota Kinabalu and Layang Layang on LL Island Resort airline operated by Boctok air;
(8 flights in total)

Accommodation at: (plus over night on outward flight)
Pacific Sutera hotel Kota Kinabalu (2 nights) www.suteraharbour.com
Layang Layang Island Resort (6 nights) www.layanglayang.com
Sepilok Nature Reserve (1 night)
Sukau Rainforest Lodge (1 night)
Lankayan Island (3 nights) www.layanglayang.com
Ground handling with Borneo Eco Tours

All travel arrangements through:
Touchdown WTS
Gatwick House
Peeks Brook Lane
Horley
Surrey RH6 9ST
tel: 01293 425000
fax: 01293 425001
e-mail: holidays@touchdown.co.uk
website: www.touchdown.co.uk

I would be happy to provide further details myself. I can be contacted at: scuba.diver@virgin.net
David S Dixon. Chairman Peterborough Sub-Aqua Club, BS-AC Branch 0297. (c) copyright David Dixon 2001