Maldives in Atoll Explorer, February 2008

by Eddie Clamp

(Itinerary One)

Background

Lately I have had enough time on my hands to be able to write up some dive trips for the BSAC Travel section. After a number of my reports I received an email from Allie Boler. Would I consider becoming a BSAC Travel Correspondent and would I also consider my area to cover as the Maldives? Hmmmm I thought to myself - sounds good. On replying in the affirmative to Allie I asked - how do I get there and who pays? Allie's answer came immediately - if the BSAC paid for their Travel Correspondents to visit exotic places the write-ups would have been completed years ago. No! This was to be self-financed.

I gave some thought to this subject and decided I would have to make an initial visit to get the feel of the islands. Of course, Sue, my ever-loving non-diving wife also had a say. Quite rightly, she was coming too. So the trip had to be at a reasonable price. Along with many other UK divers I visit the Red Sea regularly, so the Maldives, which I consider a long-haul destination would be a little different. Searching around on the Internet I came up with a cheaper option than that given by the usual UK Dive Travel Operators. Cosmos Website came up with a reasonable price for a week in the Atoll Explorer Website that didn't hit the pocket too hard and would be visiting the South Male, Rasdhoo, North and South Ari Atolls. This option also gave the opportunity of being a relaxed holiday for both Sue and myself and also for me to see something of what the islands had to offer dive wise.

How we got there.

We travelled from Gatwick direct to Male, North Male Atoll via Monarch Airlines Website on a flight provided by Cosmos but organised by Kuoni. I was offered no extra baggage limit as a diver but I did hear that Monarch do offer it on the production of dive certification. Check it out before flying! I didn't have a problem as some of my gear was in wife Sue's bag.

We flew overnight to the capital of the Maldives. The flight was reasonably comfortable but a number of passengers became light-headed to the point of fainting. Why this happened may have been due to a number of circumstances - overnight flight, cramped seating, dinner together with a little alcohol, the warmth of the cabin but mostly, I believe in my non-expert way, to the low oxygen level in the main cabin. Our return flight appeared to suffer no such happenings.

We arrived in Male around mid morning to be met by the Cosmos rep who directed us to his desk from where we collected local information pamphlets and were then sent to the Atoll Explorer desk across the concourse. On arrival here it was plainly obvious that they did not have our name and were not expecting us. Stress levels started to rise. A very pleasant local man who was quick to phone the boat on the production of our Cosmos booking form then took us in hand. It soon transpired that there was room for us and we were given our boat transfer tickets and taken to the jetty where a boat was to take us on the twenty-minute journey to our destination.

Atoll Explorer

On arrival onboard we were directed to the bar by the Kuoni rep who gave us a brief on the boat. Those who were expected were allocated their cabins. We had a little wait while Captain Fulhu, checked out our booking form and allocated us a cabin which then had to be cleaned but we were soon unpacking and settling in.

There are two types of cabin onboard. Those on U deck, in the forward part of the ship have portholes or windows. Those on A deck aft have small balconies for which a higher price is paid. Our cabin was located next to the restaurant that was very convenient at meal times. Overall the ship and cabins were clean and well looked after by the domestic crew. Some of the ship's facilities onboard can be viewed at: This website. Captain Fulhu takes a "get involved" attitude to his ship and guests. Always with a smile and quip he is there to show the way when you are either going on a trip in the dhoni or dinghy or have a problem during your stay.

The daily routine starts at 0730 with breakfast in the restaurant. The day may then begin with a trip ashore around 1000, returning for lunch at 1230. Afterwards the dhoni is available to take trippers ashore again until around 1630. Dinner started at 1930, usually after a few drinks in the bar. The holiday is all-inclusive so there is no extra charge for food or drink.

Diving

Diving on the boat is under the auspices of Euro Divers led onboard by the Dive Marshall's husband and wife team of Jackie and Said. Visit: Euro Divers Website where details can be found of dive and rental charges etc. There is also a dhoni charge of 12 US dollars for each diving trip apart from the check dive. No nitrox facilities are available onboard at the moment. 10 litre aluminium cylinders are the norm for diving.

All new divers are expected to carry out the check dive at no extra cost. This dive was carried out at our first island visit to Laguna. The check dive consisted of a briefing and a shallow eight-metre dive where we had to demonstrate: mask clearance, recovery of a lost dv and sharing of an alternate air source.

Sue

We had a small but comfy cabin with a large window and an en-suite shower and toilet. The ship has twenty double cabins making room for forty guests. The meals, all served in the large and airy restaurant, were good with a varied menu with plenty of choice, all served buffet style. The tables mostly seated four and with no seating plans we sat wherever we wanted each meal time so that the passengers got to know each other and there was a nice friendly atmosphere. The waiters were very attentive, bringing drinks and clearing the tables between courses.

There are two main sundecks with sun loungers with limited shade and a Jacuzzi, which nobody seemed to use.

The bar had a large paperback library, piles of magazines, several board games, comfortable armchairs and sofas. Non-alcoholic and alcoholic cocktails were in plentiful supply as well as the normal supply of drinks one would expect







Daily Routine

Day One

Arrival, welcome meeting and settling in at Kurumba, North Male Atoll - Website

Day Two

Depart Kurumba at 0800, arriving at Laguna, South Male Atoll
-Website" around 0915. Non-divers could then transfer to the island for snorkelling, beach or pool, returning onboard at 1230 for lunch. The divers who had arrived the previous day were taken to the nearby jetty to carry out a check dive in eight metres. This dive was free. At 1400 snorkellers were transferred to the island again and the divers went off to dive Vellassaru caves.

The dive site Vellessaru caves is situated directly to the north of Laguna. My dive here was 53 minutes at 21 metres. The caves cut into the vertical wall of the reef causing a serrated appearance. Jumping from the dhoni we immediately sited a largish Humphead Wrasse together with many Lionfish and Morays. Later we came across a solitary Turtle feeding at 20 metres. I was surprised to see so many cleaner wrasse stations during my weeks diving, they were everywhere. Don't remember coming across as many as this in the Red Sea. The sea temperature was a warm 28 degrees centigrade.
The snorkellers returned to the boat around 1700. Dinner was usually at 1930 and normally proceeded by an all-inclusive drink in the well stocked bar.

I did hear that there was a slide show in the evening but succumbed to my bed early.

Sue

The first island we visited was Laguna, which was a small resort with a friendly staff. Some non-swimmers used the pool here. The resort had a large sandy beach with beautiful clear waters. The best place to snorkel here was near to the beach bungalows. Strong currents meant that snorkellers had to stay within the reef.

As on most of the excursions we were ferried back to the ship for lunch. We were then given the choice of either staying onboard for the rest of the afternoon or returning to the island. I usually remained onboard as I found the hot climate with little shade on the beach quite tiring. It was very easy to get sunburned in spite of using sunscreen. A T-shirt and cover for the legs is a must while snorkelling as was demonstrated by the badly burnt backs and legs of some after a day on the beach.

Day Three

Departure at 0600 from Laguna arriving at the island of Kuramathi, South Ari Atoll: Website at 0945.

The non-divers were offered the morning on Kuramathi and an afternoon visit to the local fishing village of Rashdoo for shopping.

Dive one today was at Madivaru. It was here that we began to see the effects of the previous week's bad weather. The underwater viz was not at its best. Ok, but not the best! My dive here was to 23 metres for 45 minutes. Massive shoals of red-toothed triggerfish. These were abundant at many of the sites we visited. Later we saw a smallish turtle. There was a fairly strong current on this site that kept us moving along.

Dive two took place on Rashdoo Reef. 21 metres for 50 minutes. Again the viz was poor for the area. A very large turtle was sited at some depth below us. Later we came upon a sleeping white-tip shark and a large Tuna. All in all, a good dive.

A fishing trip was enjoyed late evening.

Sue

At the Kuramathi resort there was a large swimming pool with a number of sun beds, which were used by some passengers, but I preferred the beach where some shade could be found under the trees. There was good snorkelling by the beach bungalows but inexperienced snorkellers were encouraged to stay within the reef. I was thrilled to find myself swimming with small black-tipped reef sharks. There were also lots of dart fish and other small fish to be seen.

In the afternoon there was a visit to the nearby island of Rashdoo. On a walk around this small fishing village piles of sandbags were very noticeable. Many of the houses and garden walls were built of bleached coral. There were quite a few shops selling T-shirts, sarongs and locally carved wooden items. Some fishing boats have curved prows in the old tradition, which were nice to see.

Day Four

Three divers arose at 0545 to prepare for a special dive. Dawn was arising over Madivaru while we were kitting up. Entering the water from the dhoni the sun was popping its head over the horizon. We were in search of the elusive Hammerhead shark. We were dropped off the dhoni on the reef and with Jackie leading we made our way into the deep blue. I could see Jackie paying strict attention to her compass while on the constant search for the shark. We swam around and around with no reference points for at least twenty minutes when Jackie gave a loud scream to attract our attention. There they were two of them just on the edge of visibility. We made our way towards them but they vanished into the gloom. After a little while we arrived back on the reef to surface and be picked up by the boat. We had dived the Madivaru Hammerhead site at 24 metres for 40 minutes.

Non-divers transferred to Madivaru desert island for snorkelling and windsurfing. It was here that my new Welsh dive buddy Tony was able to swank and show off his windsurfing to all and sundry, Nice one Tony!

At 1300 we departed Kuramathi to arrive at Maaya Thila, North Ari Atoll at 1530. For those who have never dived a Thila it is described as a coral reef that rises to a few metres below the surface. On the dive here we sighted two white-tips immediately on entering the water. Fish life abounded. Large Jack fish came zipping by, upsetting the local fish life. We saw a further two white-tips sleeping on the sand well below us. Dive here 28 metres for 46 minutes here.

After dinner we had time for skylark and jollifications with the crew demonstrating the dance Boduberu in which, we of course, were persuaded to join in. We also had a crew drum band with Jackie playing her part. I was soon to take her place and stunned many by actually keeping in time, although I was scolded for having a little practice on my own before the band started.






Sue

On the island of Madivaru umbrellas and cool boxes for soft drinks, water and beer had been taken ashore by the crew along with a windsurfing board and volleyball net. Two members of the crew stayed with us at all times. There was some good snorkelling but there was quite a wade out to deeper water. The divers joined us after their first dive of the day and we all returned to the ship for lunch. In the evening we were entertained by the crew with traditional drumming and dancing.

Day Five

At 0700, on the dot, we departed Maaya Thila arriving at Alikoi Rah at 0930. Captain Fuhlhu's very keen on punctuality. The non-divers transferred to the desert island from 1000-1230 and again, if they wished, from 1400-1530.

We first dived the Fish Head site in the morning. On entering the water we were immediately met by a huge Napoleon who followed us for sometime. He appeared to be regarding my camera as a possible meal and came quite close. The viz improved here. Later we saw a largish stingray, many groupers, an attractive flatworm and many sweetlips. A great dive - 27 metres for 53 minutes.

We later dived at Alikoi Reef, which I found somewhat disappointing. There was loads of small fish life and coral, although we did see some evidence of coral damage. 19 metres, 53 minutes. We were back to the poor viz.

Sue

The next morning saw us transferring to the desert island of Alikoi Rah where, once again, the umbrellas were awaiting us. This was my favourite place for swimming. There was a safe lagoon, although the current increased during the day. As an inexperienced snorkelled I prefer to use a mask and hold my breath as long as possible. Here I was able to swim along the edge of the reef and see the most beautiful corals and see the varied, abundant sea life, including "Nemo" and his anemone. Experienced snorkellers went outside the reef where the current was stronger. They reported that there was more dead coral there and that the sea life within the lagoon was much better.

We departed from here during the afternoon. The evening found us at the island of Dhiggiri enjoying a BBQ (mostly delicious fish) and dancing in the sand. The island had one flush toilet, a large awning and more vegetation than the other islands we had visited.

Day Six

At 1000 all the snorkellers transferred to Dhiggiri Island for an all day picnic. The sight of the small dinghy crammed with those going ashore was quite something.

The divers set off to dive Dhiggiri Thila. Good viz here again. We started as a group but got split up in buddy pairs as Jackie was testing diver skills for a PADI Advanced Diver course. We didn't see any large fish life here but the reef was crammed with beautiful corals and small fish. Having split up from the main group Tony and I ended up almost circumnavigating the Thila ending up the dive over a veritable coral garden. After surfacing we could see the dhoni on the other side of the Thila, so we had a fair wait to be picked up.

The second dive of the day was carried out at Dhiggiri Island. This was another disappointing dive and as such my last of the holiday. 55 minutes at 19 metres.

Sue

We were transferred back to the island the next morning for the whole day to enjoy a picnic lunch for which Eddie and the other divers joined us after their dive. It was very hot and the umbrellas were not very effective. Some of us availed ourselves of the shade amongst the trees and bushes. The snorkelling here was also very good. Later we returned onboard for the Captain's dinner.

Day Seven

Departure from Dhiggiri was at 0600 with return to Kurumba at 1130. The dive plan promised another dive at Fish Head en route, which I was looking forward to. However, we ploughed straight back to Kurumba. A dive on Banana Reef near Male airport was offered on arrival but the time of the dive did not give a clear 24-hour free before flying. Due to fly at 1215 the next day, time out of water would have been around 1245. Now I suppose I could have broken a rule that was instilled in me all those years ago when I learned to dive but I chose not to. Some did, stating that their dive computer would be in the clear by flight time but I declined the dive. All this being said I was very disappointed to have missed the dive. Royal Navy rule - Obey the last order!

For those not diving there was a transfer to Kurumba at 1400 until 1530 for snorkelling etc. Sue and I chose the Male shopping visit and tour that started at 1600 and finished at 1830. A brief but interesting tour. I took the opportunity to buy myself a new pair of wetsuit bootees in one of the dive shops there.

After dinner we had a live, local band play for us until midnight on the sundeck. Earlyish finish here because many would be disembarking very early either to take flying boats to the islands of their choice or for early flights home.

Sue

Early next morning we headed back towards Male and the island of Kurumba. This is another large resort island, which I did not visit preferring to go to Male for a short tour of the capital. A local guide gave us a brief history and tour of the centre, mosque and President's palace. During the latter part of the short tour we visited the fish market and the fruit and vegetable market. Both markets were very interesting, especially the latter with the unfamiliar fruits on sale. On sale here we also we saw betel leaves, very popular for chewing. Some of the ladies bought spices here. There were a lot to choose from and they were a good price. After our last dinner onboard we were entertained by a local band.

Day Eight

After our usual, nice breakfast we sat on the sundeck awaiting our departure. Our bags were collected from outside our cabins and taken to the transfer boat from where we departed the Atoll Explorer at 1000 for our flights home.

Finally

Eddie

Overall it was a great holiday, a wonderful compromise for spending some quality time with my wife Sue. I enjoyed the facilities onboard, the excursions ashore and most of the diving. Sue and I seriously considered trying to arrange an extra week on the boat to enable us to experience Atoll Explorer's Schedule Two but flight re-scheduling was impossible. We are hoping to return sometime next year.

We met a great team of older divers and their wives: Tony and Brenda, Bill and Yvonne and younger diver Tom and his wife Annie. We really enjoyed their company! Hope to see you all again one day.

Sue

I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere onboard the Atoll Explorer and also the experience of visiting the beautiful islands of the Maldives. I plan to practise more with a mask and snorkel so that I can enjoy the reefs and lagoons even more if I am lucky enough to visit these islands again.

Being a non-diver and not too keen on boats I was persuaded to go on this trip by being assured by Eddie that this was a "cruise" and not a "liveaboard". Luckily for him this proved to be true. Conclusion - Definitely a cruise and not a liveaboard.

Eddie Clamp
BSAC Travel Correspondent
eddie.clamp@bsactravel.co.uk

Additional non-diver reporting by Sue Clamp

February 2008

Photography by Eddie & Sue Clamp

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