Having holidayed in the Red Sea for 4 years, I decided that 2004 would be different. I had heard glowing reports both of the Maldives and the "Maldives Scuba Tours" boats from other local divers so decided to try them myself. Having initially looked at their web site www.scubascuba.com my telephone enquiry to Scuba Tours was dealt with very helpfully and booking was simple. There was no issue with the fact that I was travelling by myself - as it happened, all on board were doing likewise.
Whilst many other operators use direct charter flights, Maldive Scuba Tours use scheduled Emirates Airlines flights from either Heathrow (my choice) or Manchester, both via Dubai. Divers have an automatic 30kg weight allowance and this was not queried in the slightest, despite my taking full advantage. Check-in was positively helpful even offering me the option to take a heavy camera case as hand luggage (I declined as some of the contents wouldn't have got through airport security in hand luggage!) Although the Dubai changeover is disruptive for sleeping, travelling this way does have advantages. Most importantly the scheduled flights mean there is much improved seat spacing. The planes were very modern and well equipped with personal seatback video screens incorporating not just videos and video games but a constantly updated flight position map, outside cameras and within the same handset the option for satellite phone connection. Following the mad throngs of a 2pm departure from Heathrow, Dubai airport in the early hours was a pleasure with gates set out along one single long terminal with arrivals downstairs and departures above. After a one hour wait we were on board the plane for Male arriving there at breakfast time to be met in arrivals by the Cruise Directors Anne Marie and Matt. They guided us along the airport waterfront to the waiting dhoni that would take us to the main boat. As the Country consists of over 1200 islands there are 2 main modes of transport in Maldives - boat or seaplane, and the waterfront is the equivalent of the taxi rank/bus terminal in "normal" airports. The airport takes up an entire island in its own right and is separate from but close to the island with the capital Male.
Although I had initially booked for MV Sea Spirit, on arrival I discovered that the trip would actually go ahead on MV Sea Queen the companies original but slightly smaller boat. This was no hardship as there were in fact only 4 of us booked for the fortnight and some of those were last minute bookings! I count myself lucky that the cruise went ahead at all, and Sea Queen had the added advantage of Nitrox being available. In the circumstances, unusually, 2 further guests joined us at the end of the first week but it still left everyone with a twin bunk cabin to themselves. The pick ups did not impinge on our diving as the new arrivals took a seaplane transfer to resorts adjacent to our dive site and were then picked up from the landing stage as we passed.
As is the norm in the Maldives, live aboards are just that, the living quarters. Unlike those in the Red Sea the boat is almost totally set aside for living, with only a minimal dive deck. On my trip this was only used once, for quick entry for snorkelling with whale sharks. Both Sea Queen and her dhoni were well equipped with safety equipment that was both prominently positioned and immediately accessible. All cabins are air-conditioned and have spacious twin bunks with the exception of slightly restricted headroom. The spotless ensuite toilet / shower room was well thought out and featured a proper flush toilet and a push button shower with plentiful pressure of instant hot water. Whilst breakfast and snacks were served in the saloon, lunch and dinner were generally served as a buffet at the main table on the foredeck under the sun canopy / deck. The food was both plentiful and excellent, produced in a miniscule galley by a Sri Lankan chef and his assistant in full view of the guests. Vegetarian options were no problem and I'm sure with warning most preferences would have easily been accommodated (with the exception of pork, which is totally forbidden in this Muslim state!)
Diving and all ferrying ashore is via the "Dhoni" which is a smaller support boat more able to manouver close in to the reefs and channels than the main live aboard. On arrival dive kit was set up on board the dhoni and it stayed set up for the whole trip. With the exception of Nitrox, all cylinders were filled in situ on the dhoni using a trailing hose without the need to even remove cylinders from the BC. This was generally done whilst it was away from the main boat. Nitrox mixes of 32% were done on the main boat with cylinders transferred when the dhoni came alongside for us to board.
Diving was under the supervision of one or both of Anne Marie Kitchen-Wheeler and Matt Kitchen, both PADI instructors. Prior to every dive they would do a current check in snorkel kit and with only one exception managed to get the best drop off point to land in the right place on the reef. With strong currents in a number of sites and a 10-15m descent before reaching the top of the "thila" this was very important. Never the less we still had one or two interesting drift dives AGAINST the current! One also soon accepted the logic of using reef hooks, hooking into a dead portion of the reef to hold yourself close to the current point, as even when hooked in this could still be quite strenuous.
Weather conditions during July were mixed as this is the very end of the monsoon season. On occasions the wind could blow up and surface temperature drop markedly followed by a heavy downpour. This rarely caused us any problems during the trip as they always appeared to coincide with periods when we were under the water or tucked up snugly in the saloon or cabins (was this good luck or planning?) Most of the time the surface temperatures and weather were excellent and the top sundeck was little used because of the heat! Water temperature was a consistent 28C with 3mm suit being quite adequate. The visibility was not as good as can be expected during other times of the year due to suspended plankton but the plus side of this was the presence of the plankton feeders - whale sharks and mantas.
Our trip covered sites in the North Male, South Male and Ari Attol's but this route will vary throughout the year according to prevailing conditions. For those used to 4 and 5 dives a day in Red Sea, this is more relaxed with maximum of 4 dives/day (where a night dive was included) but more normally 3. Although reef diving, this is more square profile in the Maldives than the Red Sea as the Thilas frequently top out at 12-15m meaning that despite the 30m depth limit I was always much closer to entering deco than in the Red Sea. It also meant that the final ascent and safety stops must be done mid water. Although the boat provides flags and insists on all divers carrying them, I personally would strongly recommend taking and using a reel & DSMB because of the current once you leave the top of the reef. Though the coral I saw was generally poor compared to the Red Sea, this was more than compensated for by the plethora of fish. Not only were the shoals bigger but there was also a greater variety of species. Apart from the "normal characters" we saw at least 3 species of Moray, 4 or 5 species of clown fish, ribbon eels, garden eels, whitetip sharks feeding at night, frogfish, leaf-fish and countless long nosed hawkfish, just to name a few!
Prior to going I had been told stories of Manta's and whale sharks but my expectations were limited. I was certainly not to be disappointed, Anne Marie has studied Manta behaviour during her period on Sea Queen (and offers a PADI speciality course on them). On only our first dive we were able to see several at close range. This was however nothing to compare with one of the sites - "Lankan" which is used by them as a cleaning station and was visited several times over the fortnight. Here we were treated to the spectacular sight of up to a dozen mantas circling and vying for position before gliding effortlessly over the small section of reef from which the cleaner wrasse rose up to service them. As a group we had been well lectured as to "manta etiquette" - stay still and keep close to the reef away from the main cleaning point and don't try and touch them. Regrettably the very close encounters we had with them flying only feet away from us (I actually ducked for one), were cut short by the addition of groups from other boats. They had obviously not been so well briefed and weren't controlled such that they were chasing after the mantas to try and touch them - chasing them away in the process. We also had a couple of sessions cruising along the edge of the reef with everyone on deck looking for the shadow of whale sharks against the reef. Again this was successful allowing us to see two and snorkel very close to one of them. This was a truly magnificent encounter for me being only metres away from it, even more so for some of the group as it turned and passed right through between them.
Throughout the trip whenever he was to be seen in the water Matt had a video camera in his hand and the "rushes" would be reviewed on the TV in the saloon after the days diving. These were then edited into a very professional video record of the trip, available for guests to purchase.
Whilst islands are segregated into either "resort" or "local", some of the local islands are set up to cater for passing tourists seeking gifts and souvenirs and we had an opportunity to spend an hour or so exploring the main shopping street on one towards the end of the trip. Additionally on the last day, after finishing diving and washing kit, we were able to get a lift across to Male and have a walk round parts of the capital itself before returning aboard to pack and have a celebratory dinner. The Maldive Islands are a collection of contrasts. On one island (often little more than a sandbank) local dwellings may appear fairly basic whilst the neighbouring resort island can feature water bungalows for which they may charge $500-$1000 /night and Male even has mini skyscrapers! It also amazed me when looking at tiny palm covered islands that a mobile phone mast would often be seen peeking through the tree canopy. Throughout the voyage the boat was not only in contact by radio but also mobile phone and (slow) email! This is certainly not a place where you can be out of touch - unless you really try!
The final day dawned and after breakfast having said our thanks and goodbyes our luggage was loaded onto the dhoni for the short trip from the anchorage at one side of the airport island round to the main terminal. Yet again our timing was near perfect as not long after we entered the lounge than the heavens opened with the most tremendous thunder storm and deluge. The lightweight waterproofs which we had been advised to take stayed firmly in the bag throughout! This last storm did however result in a delay in the arrival of the plane for our flight to Dubai but not such that it affected our connection.
Photographers using film might note that having originally set off from Aberdeen I calculated my films, rated100-400 ASA and carried in hand luggage, were X-rayed no less than 8 times by the time I got home. Despite this they suffered no adverse effects.
Trips on Sea Queen are for either 7 or 12 nights. I opted for the latter. Cost for the 12 day trip was reduced to £1650 for low season but this price is fully inclusive of everything except nitrox fills, souvenirs and alcoholic drinks (available on an honesty basis from the fridge with settlement at the end of the trip). Dependent on the Cruise Director PADI courses (including nitrox) are available on board at additional cost. When everything is taken into account the trip was excellent value and compares very favourably with resort based deals whilst giving a much more varied diving itinerary.
I would highly recommend Maldive Scuba Tours and their boats and will certainly be going to back with them in the future to Sea Queen or her sister ship Sea Spirit. Though to get the very best conditions and visibility I might try another time of year there is no reason for not going in July when I did. Whilst it could have been better for photographic purposes, for general diving the visibility was way beyond the distance where it makes any difference and the life phenomenal.
Maldives Live Aboard - MV Sea Queen
Although I had initially booked for MV Sea Spirit, on arrival I discovered that the trip would actually go ahead on MV Sea Queen the companies original but slightly smaller boat. This was no hardship as there were in fact only 4 of us booked for the fortnight and some of those were last minute bookings! I count myself lucky that the cruise went ahead at all, and Sea Queen had the added advantage of Nitrox being available. In the circumstances, unusually, 2 further guests joined us at the end of the first week but it still left everyone with a twin bunk cabin to themselves. The pick ups did not impinge on our diving as the new arrivals took a seaplane transfer to resorts adjacent to our dive site and were then picked up from the landing stage as we passed. 
As is the norm in the Maldives, live aboards are just that, the living quarters. Unlike those in the Red Sea the boat is almost totally set aside for living, with only a minimal dive deck. On my trip this was only used once, for quick entry for snorkelling with whale sharks. Both Sea Queen and her dhoni were well equipped with safety equipment that was both prominently positioned and immediately accessible. All cabins are air-conditioned and have spacious twin bunks with the exception of slightly restricted headroom. The spotless ensuite toilet / shower room was well thought out and featured a proper flush toilet and a push button shower with plentiful pressure of instant hot water. Whilst breakfast and snacks were served in the saloon, lunch and dinner were generally served as a buffet at the main table on the foredeck under the sun canopy / deck. The food was both plentiful and excellent, produced in a miniscule galley by a Sri Lankan chef and his assistant in full view of the guests. Vegetarian options were no problem and I'm sure with warning most preferences would have easily been accommodated (with the exception of pork, which is totally forbidden in this Muslim state!) 
Diving and all ferrying ashore is via the "Dhoni" which is a smaller support boat more able to manouver close in to the reefs and channels than the main live aboard. On arrival dive kit was set up on board the dhoni and it stayed set up for the whole trip. With the exception of Nitrox, all cylinders were filled in situ on the dhoni using a trailing hose without the need to even remove cylinders from the BC. This was generally done whilst it was away from the main boat. Nitrox mixes of 32% were done on the main boat with cylinders transferred when the dhoni came alongside for us to board.
Our trip covered sites in the North Male, South Male and Ari Attol's but this route will vary throughout the year according to prevailing conditions. For those used to 4 and 5 dives a day in Red Sea, this is more relaxed with maximum of 4 dives/day (where a night dive was included) but more normally 3. Although reef diving, this is more square profile in the Maldives than the Red Sea as the Thilas frequently top out at 12-15m meaning that despite the 30m depth limit I was always much closer to entering deco than in the Red Sea. It also meant that the final ascent and safety stops must be done mid water. Although the boat provides flags and insists on all divers carrying them, I personally would strongly recommend taking and using a reel & DSMB because of the current once you leave the top of the reef. Though the coral I saw was generally poor compared to the Red Sea, this was more than compensated for by the plethora of fish. Not only were the shoals bigger but there was also a greater variety of species. Apart from the "normal characters" we saw at least 3 species of Moray, 4 or 5 species of clown fish, ribbon eels, garden eels, whitetip sharks feeding at night, frogfish, leaf-fish and countless long nosed hawkfish, just to name a few! 
Prior to going I had been told stories of Manta's and whale sharks but my expectations were limited. I was certainly not to be disappointed, Anne Marie has studied Manta behaviour during her period on Sea Queen (and offers a PADI speciality course on them). On only our first dive we were able to see several at close range. This was however nothing to compare with one of the sites - "Lankan" which is used by them as a cleaning station and was visited several times over the fortnight. Here we were treated to the spectacular sight of up to a dozen mantas circling and vying for position before gliding effortlessly over the small section of reef from which the cleaner wrasse rose up to service them. As a group we had been well lectured as to "manta etiquette" - stay still and keep close to the reef away from the main cleaning point and don't try and touch them. Regrettably the very close encounters we had with them flying only feet away from us (I actually ducked for one), were cut short by the addition of groups from other boats. They had obviously not been so well briefed and weren't controlled such that they were chasing after the mantas to try and touch them - chasing them away in the process. We also had a couple of sessions cruising along the edge of the reef with everyone on deck looking for the shadow of whale sharks against the reef. Again this was successful allowing us to see two and snorkel very close to one of them. This was a truly magnificent encounter for me being only metres away from it, even more so for some of the group as it turned and passed right through between them. 
Whilst islands are segregated into either "resort" or "local", some of the local islands are set up to cater for passing tourists seeking gifts and souvenirs and we had an opportunity to spend an hour or so exploring the main shopping street on one towards the end of the trip. Additionally on the last day, after finishing diving and washing kit, we were able to get a lift across to Male and have a walk round parts of the capital itself before returning aboard to pack and have a celebratory dinner. The Maldive Islands are a collection of contrasts. On one island (often little more than a sandbank) local dwellings may appear fairly basic whilst the neighbouring resort island can feature water bungalows for which they may charge $500-$1000 /night and Male even has mini skyscrapers! It also amazed me when looking at tiny palm covered islands that a mobile phone mast would often be seen peeking through the tree canopy. Throughout the voyage the boat was not only in contact by radio but also mobile phone and (slow) email! This is certainly not a place where you can be out of touch - unless you really try!
Photographers using film might note that having originally set off from Aberdeen I calculated my films, rated100-400 ASA and carried in hand luggage, were X-rayed no less than 8 times by the time I got home. Despite this they suffered no adverse effects.