Getting Wrecked in Malta - July 2007

by Brian Rayner

After many years diving these islands (and with a gentle nudge from Alison Boler) thought I'd put something together for trip reports on the wreck diving here.

As yet another expedition to Malta was looming on the horizon I got in touch with Gavin, an old friend who had made his home here in the early nineties. We decided to have a break around late June to avoid the usual heat-wave associated with high summer. After agreeing dates I booked my flights online through BA.

Most airlines get a bad press by divers these days, but I have to say that BA with their new allowances for sporting gear are definitely a divers best friend, at least on European flights. Although booked through BA my flight was actually with GB Airways, although booking conditions are the same. I checked in three cases weighing a total of 66kgs. Pre-booking excess baggage online saves £20.00 on the normal cost of around £62 for a 23kg case (see websites below). BA doesn't have a weight restriction on hand luggage as such, as long as you're sensible and don't over do it. Mine was around the 11 kg mark.

My 17 day flight ticket at £100.00 was actually better value than the normal 14 day return deal. My flight was from Manchester Terminal 2 departing at 07:15 Sun 24th June, returning on Tues 10th July at 15:30, which on the face of it weren't bad times. But sadly due to a hydraulic fault the departure time was delayed by 9 hrs to 16:15 hrs! My first thought was 'Lucky I brought the iPod and a mag' to read then..'

Next job was to text Gavin to give him the good news.

Flight BA6822 finally arrived at Luqa Airport at 20:40, where I was greeted by Gavin, my diving partner in crime for the next two weeks. After a 30 min drive we arrived in St Paul's around 10pm, where we had a beer, caught up on each others news and discussed our dive options for the next two weeks. Of which included the fact we didn't have a boat handler anymore. Unfortunately for us our man had let us down with only weeks to go, so finding a replacement last minute was proving difficult, but not impossible as it turned out.

The following day I took the short walk to Strand to see Lawrence and organised cyl's, gases and sofno'.
On this holiday we decided to dive basically the same wrecks as last time, with hopefully a couple of additions. The wrecks planned initially were the Schnellboot S-31, Le Polynesien and HMS Southwold (bow and stern sections). Then if possible the Drifter Eddy, Stubborn and Angelo wrecks' along with some shore diving in between.

The weather was looking settled for the first week with light winds from the n/east, and with an air temp of 38c it was hotter than the seasonal norm.

So to start the holiday we decided to check out our units with a bimble at Cirkewwa, diving the Rozi and surrounding reef area.

For the wreck diving we would be using Gavin's boat No Bubbles II a Rascala (4.6m hard boat) powered by a 75hp Mariner outboard, a great combination for our diving here. On the boat handler front, luckily after a few enquires Gavin managed to get Steph' a work colleague to oblige us for a few days. To whom we are eternally grateful. 'Thanks Steph' it was very much appreciated!'

Although now it was quite clear that we weren't going to get the amount of boat diving in that we had first planned. Over the next couple of days the wind increased making it a bit too choppy to take the boat out anyway, so we spent a couple of days shore diving on Gozo.

Our first dive here was the wrecks at Xatt l-Ahmar, just a short distance from the ferry terminal. Since the sinking of the two new wrecks last August (Karwela and Comino Land) an exit ladder and kit benches have now been provided at the entry point, all very nice especially when trying to get out in a swell. To Malta's credit by adding entry/exit facilities at the more popular sites, particularly over the last couple of years have made them a lot safer as a result.

We headed past the Xlendi and out along the sand bottom, which gently slopes away to over 60m. After 15 mins looking for anything of interest headed back to take a look around the Karwela. This is the more interesting of the two recent additions as it's a fair size larger than Comino Land, and has the added feature of a VW Beetle on the main deck. But for us the real attraction was the engine room, and although it's a bit of a tight squeeze with unit and stages, it can be done. After leaving the Karwela had a quick look around the Comino Land. With nearly 60 mins clocked-up and a TTS of 47 mins made our way to the reef to finish the dive.






On our second day decided on Dwejra. Here we planned to dive from the Inland Sea to the Blue Hole via Coral Cave. Although this would be a fair challenge diving on open circuit is an ideal dive for a rebreather.

The entry point was a hive of activity with ferry boats busying themselves taking tourists through the 100m plus long tunnel and back, so we had to be particularly careful before descending out of harms way. (This can also be a problem at the Blue Grotto for the Um El Faroud) Once through the tunnel and into the open sea we turned left and followed the reef down past the large rocky outcrops and boulders that give this area its unique character.

This is a good site to get some depth, and for us to get some practice in with full kit in readiness for the dives ahead. The sea was calm, vis about 25m and water temp' 21c. After a steady swim round to Coral Cave I couldn't help noticing the lack of fish life in this area now. Especially the lack of the large grouper that once patrolled this area, but hopefully we were just unlucky on this occasion.

The plus's and minus's of shore diving especially in the Maltese islands certainly becomes apparent at places like the Blue Hole. When having extra kit like stages it's a trade-off, on the plus side deco-stops can be done while exploring the reef, on the minus side once out of the water it's a long walk back to the car, usually done at least twice!

We finished the first week's diving on the Um El Faroud.
During a winter storm in March a couple of years ago the wreck took a real battering, which finally saw the bow section break away and move a few metres towards the reef. Still an interesting wreck but I think most wreck divers preferred it when it was still in one piece.

Although primarily a diving holiday we also wanted some time off in between to take it easy with a beer or two. This we usually did every three or four days or when the weather looked like it was taking a turn. Our main watering hole was O'Reilly's bar just off Bugibba square, among one or two others of course..

The start of the second week saw the air temp drop from 38c to a much more comfortable 34c, and luckily for us the wind had changed to a westerly.

As we now had Steph' to help us with the boat, made our first trip out of Marsamxett Harbour to the wreck of the S-31. As Steph needed to be back by 11am our day started at 5:30am and we had the boat in the water by 7.30am and were diving by 8.30am. This is a very unique wreck as it's one of only two German motor torpedo boats in the world that are within diving range (so I believe).

This wreck is just a short ride out of Valletta and one of the nearest ones we visited in the boat. The S-31 lies in 66m with its back broken to port at an angle of approx' 140 degrees due to hitting a mine, possibly by one it had laid earlier that night.





During WWII the entrances to Valletta were constantly being mined by the Axis forces to literally starve the Maltese into submission by stopping the relief conveys from getting through, they nearly succeeded too. Amazingly this is a fairly recent addition to Malta's wreck history as it was only discovered in Sept' 2000 and so is relatively untouched, for the time being anyway. As with most of the wrecks mentioned here their history can be found on the marinefoundation website below.

As we didn't manage to dive the stern section of the Southwold last year were keen to do it this time, plus the bow section too, time and weather permitting.

Between boat diving we had another bimble at Cirkewwa before we were able to take the boat out again. After a look round the Rozi we went anchor hunting, as we were told there had been a wooden one sunk recently nearby (as a feature for the dive schools I guess) we found it on the other side of the reef from the Rozi.

Our next dive was to be the Southwold stern and luckily for us the wind was still westerly (ideal). This wreck is located north of Zonqor Point about 25 mins away. The Southwold went down in two sections after hitting an Italian floating mine. The stern is approx' 300m away from the bow section and is in slightly deeper water at 73m. This is an interesting wreck with ammunition and shell cases everywhere. The galley area still looks largely intact, with most of the equipment still visible inside. Of the two 4'' gun turrets only one is still in intact. At the end of the dive it was nice to see some grouper swim by as we made our way to the anchor line. After a 25 min btm time started our ascent with a TTS of 60 mins. As we looked back during our first stops we could see the wreck quite clearly until we reached the 35m mark.

The next day we decided on another bimble at Cirkewwa to use up the sofno' and then take the next day off.

Our next wreck dive was to be the Southwold bow section. For this dive Marylynn, (Gavin's girlfriend) kindly agreed to be our boat handler for the day as Steph' couldn't make it. So 'Many Thanks' go to 'M' as well for helping out.

This part of the wreck lies on its starboard side in 69m. Here the forward gun turret is still in place. As with the stern section the bow area is festooned with ammunition cases and fishing line.
For the full history on this wreck see the marinefoundation website.

To finish my diving in Malta this holiday we saved the best 'till last, which in Gavin's opinion is the wreck of Le Polynesien more commonly known as the plate ship (due to its cargo). This is a French passenger freighter that came to grief during WWI when it was torpedoed a few miles away from Valletta, off Marsaskala Bay.

This is quite an exciting wreck due to its size, over 150m in length. Also due to its position near a shallow reef has strong currents running over it most of the time.

After arriving at the wreck we took our time positioning the boat with the sounder for the anchor drop. Because of its size this wreck would need several forays to get to know it well. On this visit we decided to dive the forward holds. Initially after dropping the anchor we thought the wreck might be current free, but as we waited for the anchor to settle and started to kit-up realised we would be looking forward a southerly current of approx' 1 - 2 knots, as is usual here.

Going down the anchor line like flags we finally reached the wreck amidships, with the anchor perfectly positioned on the sandy bottom a few metres away to the s/board side.

Our route took us through a couple of the upper holds which are quite light and spacious and large enough to swim through without feeling the threat of entrapment. After 25 mins of exploring the various remnants of its cargo made our way back to the anchor line to start our ascent. I'll not say any more about this wreck as it might spoil the surprise of diving it yourself..


Equipment:

We were on classic Inspirations with 7L/ 10L stages.
Gases used: 16/40 - 10/50 & Nx50. Running VR3's for our deco-schedules.
Due to long run times and water temps ranging between 25c - 15c used dry suits.

Dive Centres

Although there are probably many good dive operators in Malta, I've used Strand for as long as I can remember. As well as making his living as a commercial diver Lawrence Spagnol is also a mixed gas and rebreather instructor. For Inspiration users he can supply mixed gases, sofnolime, and 3Lcyl's if required. Below is a list of technical dive facilities and their websites.

Fitness to dive

In recent years to fall in line with other EU countries diving permits in Malta are no longer required and medicals are only necessary if arranging courses. So apart from providing proof of dive qualifications, only the completion of a self assessment / disclaimer form is all that is required now.
Check-out this BSAC link:
Maltese Dive Permits

The wrecks

Luckily for me I was staying with a friend that had his own transport and dive boat, so planning the diving couldn't have been easier. Dive centres to enquire about the wrecks are: Strand Diving Services, Dive Med, Scubatech and Sea Shell Dive Cove. When organising boat hire for the more remote sites operators will be more willing to take a group rather than individuals. That said trips will also largely be dependant on weather conditions on the day. For the deeper wrecks to the east of the island it may be better to contact Dive Med at Marsaskala.

Apart from the wrecks already mentioned and listed in the websites, there's been a recent addition at Cirkewwa, a 50m patrol boat P29. To which the sinking was delayed from 7th July to 19th August due to unsettled weather. So missed my chance of diving it during my visit. It's sinking can be viewed on this link: Here
In fact the sinking of the Karwela and Comino Land can also be found on the youtube website.
A note on the Drifter Eddy & the St Angelo: due to their close proximity to the shipping lanes for Grand Harbour permission to dive them should be obtained from the harbour master, and this will only usually be given when the port is closed for special events such as the annual regatta day held in mid September (this year on Sat 8th Sept).

Shore dives:

Rozi - 34m Patrol Boat P29 - 35m Um El Faroud - 34m Xlendi - 40m Karwela - 42m Comino Land -40m Carolita Barge(X139) - 6 - 24m St Michael - 21m No 10 - 19m HMS Maori - 19m Odile - 12m

Boat dives:

Southwold (Bow) - 70m HMS Southwold (Stern) - 74m
HMS Russell - 115m Schellboot S31 - 66m Um El Faroud - 34m Bristol Beaufighter - 37m Blenheim Bomber - 42m Le Polynesien - 53 -70m Hellespont - 42m HM Drifter Eddy - 55m HMS Stubborn (Sub P238) - 56m Imperial Eagle - 40m St Angelo - 54m Scot Craig - 19m




The Diving Season

Malta's weather is seasonal and May is known as the windy month, for good reason and generally lives up to its name. For the more exposed wreck sites the best period is between mid June through to October when the weather is usually more settled. (Although personally I find it too hot in August to be messing about in dry suits)

My diving costs 1 x 20 Kg tub of Sofnolime: 50Lm.
Cylinder hire (2x 3L & 2x 7L) plus all gas fills: 90Lm (14 days). A total of approx' 140Lm (£228 Sterling).
But obviously boat hire charges would also have to be considered in your total costing. Be aware that if settling bills by c/card there may be a charge of up to 4% incurred by some dive centres to cover bank charges.

Health

There are no real concerns health-wise regarding Malta, although I'd just like to add that in high season it's worth taking some insect repellent.
The European Health Insurance card (EHIC) is free, accepted in Malta and can be ordered on-line: Here
Malta has a recompression chamber situated at St Luke's Hospital: Tel: (00356) 21234765 / 21234766 Emergency tel no: 196

Accommodation

If staying in St Paul's below are some suggestions for 3 star accommodations: The San Pawl, the Mediterranea, and San Anton--Santa Maria Hotels, mainly as they're all well situated for most amenities. Of these the Mediterranea Apart Hotel definitely has the best views of St Paul's Bay. It has a roof terrace with sun loungers and a small swimming pool.
One thing to bear in mind when booking in high season: air-con is a must.

Currency

Malta's currency is the lira, or pound as it's more commonly known. Changing money here couldn't be easier, most shops will change Sterling and Euros no bother. The exchange rate is quite stable usually hovering around £1 Sterling = 0.61Lm. (In Jan 08 Malta is planning to go over to the Euro)

Wining & Dining

Is good value here especially if you hunt out places away from the usual tourist traps along the seafront and promenade areas. Typical price for a 500cl bottle of (Lowenbrau, Cisk or Hopleaf) can be anywhere between 0.5-1.2Lm. Generally speaking eating out is cheaper than in the UK (for an excellent steak try Fat Harry's in Bugibba square).

Shopping

Since Malta embraced the EU about two years ago the prices of what was duty free have soared. On arrival the Airport shop is not as busy as it used to be. That said some items may still be cheaper, but generally speaking better prices can be found in resort.

Top side activities.

Places worth a visit: Mdina (The Silent City) which has stacks of history dating back to the Knights of St John. It's also a good place to chill-out for a couple of hours, with good views of most of the island especially from the café on the eastern rampart.

For night life try Paceville (near the resort of St Julian's). It has cinemas, theatres, pubs/clubs, restaurants and a bowling alley. It's always busy and is especially popular with islanders.

WEBSITES

The wrecks:
Malta Marine Foundation: Here
Hazegray
HMS Russell

Dive Centres

Strand Diving Services: Here
Dive Med: Here
Scubatech: Here
Sea Shell Dive Cove: Here
Dive Deep Blue: Here
Other Dive Centres: Here & Here

Accommodation

Holidays Malta
Holiday Hotels in Malta
Scuba Malta Accommodation

Flight Operators

BA (GB Airways): Here
British Jet: Here
Ryanair: Here

Tour Operators

Crusader Travel: Here
Mercury Direct: Here

Car hire

Aquarius: Here
Compass: Here
Other car hire: Here

Weather: Here
General information

About Malta Website

Photographs courtesy of Gavin Howard

If you would like to get in touch about any aspects of this report: Brian-rayner@oceanridge.fsnet.co.uk

Brian Rayner
(BSAC DL A676945/0958 / TDI SCR & OC/CCR AD' TMX)