Marsa Alam, Arabian Desert, Egyptian Red Sea, April 2006
by Alan Taylor

Where did we go?

MARSA ALAM Some 265km south of the better known town of HURGHADA, on the Red Sea/Arabian Desert coast can be found the small, at the moment fishing harbour, of Marsa Alam. Bit of a misleading description of the exact location of the holiday as Marsa Alam Airport which services the area is mid way between Marsa Alam and El Quseir and could be used as a feed for access to the Brothers without the long bus or boat trip from Hurghada.

How did we get there?

Thomas Cook flight and package direct from Manchester, on Friday 21 April 2006. Check in at Manchester was easy due to the many Thomas Cook dedicated desks.

With only a 25 minute delay we left at a much civilised 10am. Loads of room on the flight enough to claim a row of three and get a good kip on the flight. As soon as our booking was confirmed, Peter politely emailed TC who were kind enough to give us 10kg extra baggage, as we had written confirmation there was no hassle either way.

Transiting MA airport was a breeze compared to some on Red Sea. Even paid for the £13 visa on the transfer bus, so left Manchester 10am, in the hotel bar for pre-dinner drinks even allowing for the one hour time difference, 6pm.

Return on 28th April 2006 was a little more tedious due to the sad events at DAHAB and there being only one constable of the port police checking ID for entry to the terminal building. Once inside check in was quite painless and we were on the plane and ready to roll spot on 6pm (local) when departure was stopped because someone on the inbound flight had managed to get to MA with an out of date passport so we had to wait and see if the Egyptians were going to let him stay or if we would have to return him to the UK. Anyway they let him stay, so please may I advise that if you are planning a trip to Egypt if not for yourself but for OTHERS, you have more than 6 months left on your passport. The plane was a little fuller this time but still loads of spare seats and leg room, the cabin crew evened things out to create more space for all, well done TC. Due to the now 2hr time change and our wonderful new drinking laws we debriefed in the pub at 11.30pm. Magic!

Why did we choose MA?

Every year for the past 6 or so, a group of us friends and partners at or approaching SAGA age have got together for a 'Red Sea' holiday the week after Easter when all UK children should be back at school and prices are just a little lower.

Most of us are from the Manchester area and each year we take it in turns to be responsible for choosing and organising different tasks so the rules for the holiday are:

1 Direct flights from Manchester.
2 Nothing less than 4 stars.
3 Maximum one hour transfer at the other end.
4 Diving available on site.
We have steadily worked our way 'down' from Aqaba to Hurghada and with direct flights starting now from Manchester to MA all criteria have been met.

Is the location seasonal?

Check availability on Thomas Cook web site at the moment (May) 2006, 7 nights BandB available for £209 4 star. According to dive centre low season is Jan-Feb.

Who went this time?

Jackie Gardner - BSAC SD - this year' tour organiser
Alan Taylor - BSAC AD OWI - chief knocker up
Carole Taylor - BSAC 3rd Class - dietary advisor and medic
(Not dived for 20 yrs)
Peter Butler - BSAC DL OWI - U/W photography (amateur) and gopher
Susan Butler - BSAC SD - surface photography and Stella tester

Something at this location for all levels of diver.

We were looked after extremely well by Pioneer Divers, Kahramana Resort. Pioneer Divers is part of Red-Sea Safari group, the only totally Egyptian owned operation in MA area and has been operating for 17 years so they do tend to know what they are doing and are very well organised. They offered a varied programme of Diving to CMAS and PADI standards. With the option of shore, hard day boat and rib diving to sites as diverse as sand and grass in search of the Dugong to off shore reefs such as the much mentioned Elphinstone (25-35 min by rib), some wrecks out on the reefs but we didn't bother and of course every resort area has a dolphin house, this one is home to over 100 spinner dolphins if you're lucky.

'Walk in' dive packages are:
Shore based: 100 euro for 3 days Jan-Feb Transport, Tanks and Weights, 2 dives per day
110 euro 3 days Feb-Jan Transport, Tanks and Weights, 2 dives per day
Extra for boats, lunches, chamber levy etc, there is a pot within 10 minutes drive from the main site. Nitrox is available as an extra.

Our party was extremely well looked after by Morag Thorpe, who has been on site for the past nine months. She does however tend to have hard time as she is the only female non-muslim member of staff on site and if you know the Egyptians you will understand what that means.

First Dive was the obligatory check out dive so off we went in the back of a truck, which at least had soft seats facing the right way, to a sight called Marsa Shagra, red-sea safari's house reef with shaded changing areas benches and the like, zodiacs zipping in and out dropping divers off etc quite busy. Really in fact if you were of the mind one could spend your entire time at this sight with unlimited unguided diving as long as you signed yourself in and out of the water. Yes they do have a kettle for a brew. Nice sloping sandy entry bit of gravel in places bit milky to start with, just like Capernwray but with a real Coral reef, did the buoyancy bit and off we went. On to fringing reef wall levelled out at max of 23mt and thought yes this will do. Good corals and fish life. Parts of the reef was like looking at that well known screensaver. 66mins later out we got none of this 20mtr 45 min hurry along now stuff 23C.

On our return to base for lunch we were so pleased about the dive that Carole said to our surprise, right I am having some of that, after 20 years on the surface. A quick chat with Morag and it was all sorted for the next couple of days so off they went and did some sort of discover diving thingy. After 2 dives now I know what she wants for her birthday, yes the shore diving is that good.

Dive Two. Left base at 1315hrs ish. Shore dive. Marsa Egla? In the water 1411hrs saw some more screensaver reef. Some turtles and crocodile fish etc. water temp 23C 68min 20mtr that will do nicely thank you.

Dive Three Left base at 0745hrs, short truck ride back to Marsa Sharga and did a zodiac transfer to a hard boat for a day out at 'Dolphin House' reef bit bumpy only four of us and 5 snorkellers. Jackie and I let of the leash now 'cos we can follow a dive brief. In the water for 0946hrs. 24mtr going down and down, 63min 24C Magic reef bit of a drift, big sweet lips, just sit and watch the world go by.

Dive four. Moved the boat to the other end of this horse shoe shaped reef. Dropped in on two massive pinnacles, and then swam through canyon in the reef for about 15mins, magic. Corals as good as the Maldives here. Coming back to the pinnacles we came across Nemo city, they were every where like a council estate. 59min, 16mtr, 24C had to get out Jackie wanted a wee wee, she's a bit posh.

Dive Five. Left base at 0815Hrs, short drive to shore site, Sharm Abu Dabbour, bit concerned about that as it translates to Mouth of the Stinging Bee or Wasp. Any way in the water for 0915hrs, entry down through a small sink hole and then a swim through of about 5min to the reef wall, sometimes it's good to have a guide the first time. Stunning reef wall going of to depth, only a short one this as the guide wanted us out of the tunnel before the next lot turned up. 56min, 26mtr, 23C. Glad we came.


Dive Six. After lunch left base for Maria Abu Dabbab, in search of the dugong, glorious mud and sea grass for about 10min not one dugong to be seen anywhere but they will be tomorrow and then the surprise turtles, turtles and yes turtles, 10/12 foraging in the grass each with three or four remora stuck to or in close company, oh nearly forgot, the four piece band of guitar sharks close by. Got a bollocking for staying down for 69min this time, never mind eh.

Dive Seven. Fancied an extra one so back to Sharm Abu Dabbour. Was asked to buddy with a German guy called Dieter and show him round, DLRG/CMAS trained we had a great dive without the paddies. 60min, 26mt, 23C.


Where did we stay?

This year accommodation was at the Kahramana Resort. As far as I could see all accommodation at MA is based around self-contained 'resorts' which seem to be springing up all along the coast. Kahramana Resort shares its beach location with two other resorts separated by some uneven terrain and would definitely NOT be suitable for anyone with walking difficulties.

The food and accommodation at Kahramana was of an extremely high standard and the staff were some of the most friendly we have met anywhere on the Red Sea. Check out the web-site. During our stay there were only 14 Brits at Kahramana the majority being Italian which on more than one occasion led to me receiving a smack off her indoors for taking too much interest in the twice daily Milan fashion show in the main restaurant. Italians do have style but beware high heels and cobble stones do not go together.

The weekly Wednesday Bedouin night at the Kahramana Resort was an extremely busy night, with people from other resorts being 'bussed' in to attend the BBQ and show, so it turned into a bit of a 'bun fight' but if you took your time it was a very enjoyable night.

One other highlight was the night time 4x4 safari in to the Arabian Desert to go star gazing, MAGIC!

Weather wise the sun was shining it was 32C in the shade at 9.00am however we did see a cloud on the Thursday, oh hum. It can get a bit windy and according to the locals it only rains every 9 years in November/December and it has not rained for the past 8 so be warned.


MARSA ALAM cannot be compared to HURGHADA or SHARM, there is no 'strip' with KFC, McD, and Hard Rock Café etc......Yet, just an area for a relaxing most enjoyable holiday with enough varied diving to keep anyone happy in good surroundings and with some most interesting opportunities for bird watching.

Cost wise we, as we booked last October 2005 and we booked from the early edition of the TC brochure we paid the then advertised price, less a bit of haggling like getting web price on the high street, so the basic cost was £700 per couple, plus 110 euro for the diving. Book now on line (May 2006) and it can be had for #£209 pp.

Other costs:

Exchange rate in hotel was £GB1.00=£Le9.90

Bottle of Beer £Le 18.00

All you can eat Lunch £Le 95.00

All you can eat Dinner £Le 105.00

1.5Lt water £Le 9.50

Meal in Fish restaurant: As much as you can eat Salad Starter, Calamari at market price with trimmings and a beer= £6.50 - an absolute Bargain!

Now let me think carefully, Oban from Manchester, 6hr drive plus fuel, 5/6 nights live aboard £60-£65 per night, watching beerbellys squeezing into drysuits etc.....or?

Contacts

Thomas Cook: Website

Kahramana Resort: Website or view TC brochure.

Diving: Red Sea Safari's Website

Pioneer E-mail pioneer@redsea-divingsafari.com



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