MOZAMBIQUE & PROTEA BANKS

by Lucy Kublikowski

How did I get here?! I'm 25 metres down, its cold, dark and the vis is terrible. If that wasn't enough, I'm hovering over one of the most densely populated reefs for Zambezi and Hammerhead sharks in the world, not to mention the odd Great White.

We didn't intend to be diving the Protea Banks, (South Africa) out initial aim was to dive a couple of spots off the coast on Mozambique but the weather conspired against us. The plan was to dive firstly at Bazaruto Island, 600km north of Maputo, off-shore from Vilanculos and then transfer by car to Pomene, just north of Inhambane. From there we would travel again by car to Maputo and fly back to Johannesburg to catch our connecting flight back to Blighty.

We had enlisted the service of Trevor Krull at African Odyssea Diving based in South Africa, Trevor booked the accommodation, flights from Jo'burg and was to be our dive and travel guide for the 10 day trip. He had previously worked in Mozambique and was able to advise us about the destinations. Our goal was to try and see some whale sharks, which are plentiful along the Mozambique coast in the early months of the year.

Our first leg, was the trip to Vilanculos, which wasn't exactly text book. We arrived at Jo'burg airport and found the TTA Airlines desk which operates the charter flight to Vilanculos. It turns out that depending on the number of passengers, they lay on a number of planes. However they tell you turn up for a 10.15 flight regardless of which flight you're on, and they don't all leave at the same time. You only get a total of 15 kilos luggage allowance but the good news is you can pay in Rand for the excess which roughly works out about one UK Pound per Kilo.

The other issue was that we had taken diving knives with us, and because this is only a small airline, they don't send your luggage down the belt, you have to take it through to the gate with you. This means when you pass through to departures your knives gleam on the scanner and people jump on you and your bags. We negotiated to give the knives to the check-in clerk who would hand them back to us when we boarded the plane?! In actual fact they were handed back to us in the International Departures Lounge and we put them in our hand luggage, which made a farce of security at the airport. We didn't ever use them and I wouldn't take them again.

It then transpired that our plane would leave as soon as everyone arrived for it, which was one and a quarter hours before we were told it was going to leave - all completely mad, but from our point of view, less time sitting in departures so we weren't complaining.

This is the only airline offering direct flights to Vilanculos, however there are flights via Maputo on LAM (Mozambique's national airline) and South African Airlines. The downside is that with connections, they take almost a full day instead of 2 hours.
The Lodge will organise the flights for you as part of a package to Bazaruto.

Vilanculos airport is small, but adequate and we cleared the immigration with no problems, we were met by our Guide and transferred into our 6-seater Cessna for the 15 minute trip to the island. There were great views over the water and we strained to make out the elusive colony of dugongs that reside there, but no luck.

At Bazaruto Island there are 2 hotels, Bazaruto Lodge on the northern most point, which is 4 star and un-air-conditioned. At the southern end is Indigo bay, 5 star, with all mod cons, but not in the best location for diving. Despite the heat in our A-frame chalet, I would choose Bazaruto Lodge again. It was comfortable, great food and nice amenities. The diving centre was well run and could supply all the kit except computers. It catered for up to 12 divers on 2 small hard boats. The centre has one instructor and a dive master and courses are available with initial lessons in the Lodge's pool. It is my understanding that the staff are about to change so difficult to say what the service will be like in the future.

Our arrival had been preceeded by a cyclone in the channel between Mozambique and Madagascar, and whilst it was hot and sunny above sea level, it was a different picture underwater. Visibility was at best 8m but that didn't stop us seeing rays, turtles, Reef Tips, and a Zambezi, as well as the usual tropical reef dwellers. I would love to do it all again in better visibility. There were a variety of dive sites to suit novices and more advanced. The deeper advanced dives suffered from strong currents, so no messing around on the surface, all dives were drift dives. I overheard another diver asking if there were night dives, but was told they had ceased, 'too many sharks' apparently.

You are transported from the Lodge by Jeep across the island to the launch site, where the boats meet you. The reefs are situated off the outer coast about 5-10 minutes boat ride, all your kit is loaded and unloaded, then washed on your behalf, very luxurious! I did however find my kit was not set up as I liked it and one day I was a kilo light so a careful inspection before you leave the beach is a must. The boats were not ideal for diving but with a maximum of 6 people plus 2 staff, it was quite comfortable. A first-aid kit was on board but no oxygen, we were warned that the nearest decompression chamber was 4 hours plane ride away in South Africa.

We left Bazaruto after 4 days, picking up the 4x4 Jeep in Vilanculos to continue our journey onto Pomene. The roads were really good and clearly signposted throughout the trip and we found the turning to the Pomene peninsular without any problems. The sign for the Lodge said 54km which didn't seem too bad, however it turned out to be 2 1/4 hours of bumping along a farm track, then through open bush and finally mangroves- a 4x4 is a must. When we reached the Lodge we were in for a bit of a shock.

The accommodation is at best described as 'rustic' - our chalet turned out to be a thatched hut on a slab of concrete with a damp bed and mosquito net in the middle. No door, incomplete walls and a completely new meaning to 'ensuite'. Our dismay turned to horror when we realised we did not have enough time to move on and find another Lodge before nightfall.

We had come to Pomene because of its reputation for Whale Sharks and mantas, and we decided as we had no choice but to stay at least one night, we would try one dive in the morning. However by this stage the early morning drizzle we had experienced en-route had turned nasty and instead of the gentle lapping of the Indian Ocean, huge rollers were crashing onto the land and trees were being blown down around the Lodge. Cyclone number two had arrived. The decision was made for us, there would be no diving there for the foreseeable future.

We didn't get a chance to inspect the dive centre but from our chat in the bar with the Divemaster we gleaned the following: there is one instructor and a divemaster; diving is off a RIB; equipment with the exception of computers is available for hire. And the dives sound awesome!

The main building consisted of a bar, dining area and a satellite TV (which wasn't working) power was run off a generator, which wasn't 24 hours. The food was limited but hearty and we decided the best way to survive our night in the chalet was to drink copiously at the well stocked bar. We attracted much attention because of our nationality, the other South African guests couldn't work out how 2 English people had made it to this remote spot! (Or why!) The majority of the guests were fishermen.

If the Lodge was a bit rough and ready, the chalet was a nightmare for us poor pampered Brits. We shared it with numerous large insects and reptiles which had a free run throughout. The notice board had warned of several species of venomous snakes and nothing would persuade me to leave the safety of our mosquito-netted bed. We were glad to leave and start Plan B.

I guess if you want to dive unspoilt areas you have to put up with the hardship, it truly sounded a magical dive site and I would love to give it another try if I could figure out a way not to have to stay in their accommodation! It was all a bit laid back and catered more for the hardy South African market, very much 'take it or leave it'. There are camping facilities at the lodge and in retrospect I think I would have felt more comfortable in a tent which could be closed. Because we had expected a proper Lodge with rooms, we had no essentials such as a torch or towels. In this respect we felt our Guide had let us down by not really finding out what was there.

So plan B was formulated over beers at the bar, we would leave Mozambique and head back into South Africa trying to make Durban in one trip. From there Shelly Beach was a mere 120km south, where our guide had his dive operation. It took us a total of 20 hours, but the roads were good and it proved to be a straightforward trip, via the border crossing at Swaziland. I am told there is another more direct crossing via Ponto D'Ouro but the road is unmade and takes 3 times as long, even in a 4x4. We enjoyed the scenery, including game spotting from the road which crosses Swaziland, and took turns driving so we could make Shelly Beach by late evening.

Once we reached Maputo, mobile communications were restored, and our guide called ahead to reserve us rooms in Shelly beach. It was a great relief to find that 'Robin's Nest B&B' had walls, electricity and air conditioning. In fact it proved to be one of the nicest B&B's we ever stayed in with great food and exceptionally kind owners. If you ever dive Protea banks and are staying locally I would highly recommend it.

Literally next door our guide Trevor of African Odyssea Diving prepared his boat and our gear for our first dive on Protea Banks, our long slog in the car meant we had 2 full days of diving left. The launch site is about 100m across the road and after a lie-in we hit the water mid-morning.

Stories of the odd Great White lurking on the reef began to play on my mind and as we approached the dive site I felt my resolve ebb away. I was also taken by surprise at the swell we encountered over the reef, I imagined bobbing on the surface trying to attract the attention of the dive boat to pick me up, whilst being circled by the odd Zambezi. That was enough to persuade me I wasn't going in today. (The reality is that we dived as a group with a surface marker buoy which the boat tracks!)

My husband elected to dive with Trevor but problems on the surface meant that the dive was aborted and we called it a day. Day 2 dawned and we were determined to conquer the reef, Trevor's tales over dinner had veered away from Great White sightings to the misrepresentation of sharks and I felt more confident - after all, we had driven 1300km to be here. And so I found myself on a grey, overcast day in the cold, (21°C) dark waters of Protea Banks with Zambezis appearing out of the gloom, slightly closer than I would have wanted. I now know that I'm not a shark diver, colourful coral and clown fish suit me fine. But I'm glad I did it and I appreciate the patience of our guide who turned a disastrous few days into something positive.

In general Shelly Beach was a pleasant sea-side town, our B&B was located just off the main road, opposite the beach and a short, safe walk to a shopping area with good Pubs and Food. Its not the most happening place but it is the launch site for Protea Banks. Further north is Aliwal Shoal and Durban for alternative diving. Inland are numerous game lodges and attractions if you want to combine your trip.

There are 2 dive operators in Shelly Beach, my understanding is that if you book to dive the Banks with other firms, they will sub contract to one of these 2, if Protea Banks is your dream dive, my advice would be book direct. Launching the boat through the surf there can be quite a hairy experience, and I was glad I was in the capable hands of someone who was experienced in the conditions there and did it almost every day. The boat was an 8m RIB specifically designed for Divers. It was kitted out with Oxygen, GPS and satellite phone and we were well briefed on emergency procedures. Great emphasis was placed on safety throughout the dives.
Nitrox Diving was available.

We flew out of Durban back to Johannesburg it was a short 50 minute flight which cost about £65 one-way.

In total our 10 day trip cost approx £3000. We had paid £2700 to our guide who organised flights, accommodation on full board basis, all our dives ( 2 per day); and his services driving and diving with us. In retrospect we could have spent the first leg at Bazaruto without him and met him on the mainland on day 5 but we had no idea what to expect once we arrived.

One further point to raise, we met Trevor on his stand at LIDs 2002 and I spoke with him at length. Once we committed ourselves, we had to pay by bank draft 50% to his account in South Africa, with the balance payable a month before we left. We would have felt more comfortable paying by credit card but had to take the chance that he would be there to meet us. The reason why this is common in South Africa is that the credit card companies take between 5-8% commission on every transaction. We felt given the choice we would have swallowed the extra percentages to give us a little more security.

In a nut-shell:
There is great diving in Mozambique but don't expect western style accommodation.
It can be very hot December to March, and it is the rainy season, but this is the best time for seeing whale sharks.
Distances are long but roads are better than expected. Fly if you can.
Be prepared for delays, confusion and have a contingency plan!
Go with a guide or an organised tour.
There are 2 mobile phone transmitters in Mozambique, one in Vilanculos and also Maputo, we were able to make calls in both areas. In the Lodges there are satellite phones, the going rate is US$11 per minute.
Currency is Meticais but Rands are readily accepted, expect to pay extra for using credit cards to pay bills.
Pretty much everyone spoke English.
Protea Banks is full of sharks.

Contacts:
Dive Guide & Protea Banks Diving: www.Africanodyssea.co.za
Bazaruto Lodge: www.pestana.com or
www.africanadrenalin.co.za/pestana/baz_main.htm
Pomene Lodge: wwww.pomene.co.za
B&B, Shelly Beach: www.robins-nest.co.za
South African Airlines: www.flysaa.com


Lucy & Greg Kublikowski
Sports Divers with approx 100 dives
December 2002

Lucy.k@dial.pipex.com