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NORMANDY AND THE D DAY WRECKS  Omaha Beach On the sixth of June 1944 the largest sea borne assault in history was launched against the Normandy beaches. 13,000 aircraft, 3,500 gliders, 1,200 warships, 1,600 merchant ships, 4000 assault craft and three and a half million troops were involved in the invasion. Five landing beaches, covering forty miles of coastline were chosen for the invasion. Five divisions attacked in the first wave, with four more landing in the following twenty-four hours. Troops from Britain, America, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, France, Belgium, Norway, Poland, Czechoslovakia and Holland took part in the assault. Such a cataclysmic historic event inevitably leaves its mark. There are museums and countless graves in Normandy. At sea too, there are numerous wrecks of vessels sunk by torpedoes or mines, often with great loss of life. For more information on the invasion of Europe have a look at: http://www.dday.co.uk Expedition Plan The plan was to visit some of these historic sites and see something that is unique. Nowhere else in the world are such momentous historic events preserved on the seabed at depths accessible to divers. Although it would be possible to access some of the sites in small boats launched from French ports, we decided the best way to proceed was to charter a British liveaboard boat. This allowed us to take advantage of the area knowledge of the skipper, as well as providing accommodation for the entire expedition and transport from the UK. Cherbourg and St. Vaast 
After each day's diving was completed our charter vessel moored up at either Cherbourg or St. Vaast. Even if you are not a diver a visit to either of these French towns is recommended. Each evening we enjoyed French hospitality, cuisine and wine at a local restaurant, bar or café. The people of Normandy are relaxed and friendly and are used to welcoming British tourists.At Cherbourg a visit to 'La Cité de la Mer' is strongly recommended. This exhibition centre is sited in Cherbourg's old transatlantic terminal, and includes an aquarium, a decommissioned nuclear submarine as well as a huge variety of other exhibits on a marine theme that will all be of interest to divers. For more information see the web site at: http://www.citedelamer.com Diving While not highly challenging, the conditions at most sites required experienced sport divers as a minimum. Two were at a depth that meant they were limited dive leaders and above. The entire area is extremely tidal. In order to visit the sites we wanted to it was necessary to dive precisely at slack water. This meant that on one day we were diving at five in the morning! The procedure for each dive was the same. The first pair of divers tied the shot line to the wreck with a waster. They would then release a small buoy to signal that the shot was successfully tied in. The last pair of divers cut the waster and sent the shot up with a lifting bag. At the end of the dive all divers ascended using a delayed surface marker buoy. This system worked well but does require experienced divers for the first and last pair. In general conditions were similar to those experienced in UK waters. Water temperature was 18°C. Underwater visibility was around seven to ten metres, although particulate matter made underwater photography difficult. A torch is not necessary to enjoy the dive, but is recommended to allow your buddy to keep track of you, and to show things in their true colours. At some sites the water was never completely slack, although our timing was such that we never had to contend with a strong current. Diving (other than drift diving) is not possible at all outside slack-water times. The seabed was mostly stone and shingle. Marine life was present in greater numbers than seen on a typical UK dive. Many of the wrecks are large enough to allow significant penetration, and this must be undertaken with care. Dive Sites We completed a total of ten dives over six days. Some of the highlights included: Leopoldville This Belgian liner of 11,509 tons was requisitioned as a troopship. It was hit by a mine or torpedoed in 1944. Over 800 American servicemen drowned in the disaster. The ship now lies on its side at a depth of 56 metres and stands 16 metres up from the seabed. The site is protected under French law and a licence is required to dive. As a result of this the wreck is very much as it was 59 years ago. It's not often you get to see a row of portholes on a wreck, with even the glass still intact in each one.
This was a British armed merchantman of 2066 tons. It was mined in 1917. It now lies at a depth of 24 metres and stands up 6 metres. Unknown Tug The huge variety of marine life on this unidentified wreck included pollock, bib, harbour crabs, spider crabs, edible crabs, velvet swimming crabs, sea cucumbers, conger ells, fan corals and orange star. Strathalbyn This is a British merchant ship of 4,311 tons that was mined in 1916. The wreck is in 30 metres of water and stands 8 metres above the seabed with a slight list to port. The spectacular sight of an almost completely intact wreck was enhanced by more abundant marine life.
This is the wreck of a large ocean going vessel that was carrying twenty Sherman tanks when it was sunk by a mine in 1944. The wreck is upside down on the seabed at a depth of 27 metres and stands up 8 metres. The hull has split open and it is easy to identify the tanks, also upside down. Empire Broadsword This was an American liberty ship that was hit by a mine while supporting the landings at Omaha beach. The wreck has broken into three sections and stands 22 metres above a seabed of 26 metres. These meant that we could spent a significant amount of time enjoying the magnificent swim through the middle and stern sections and still enjoy an extended decompression stop at the top of the wreck. The stern lies on its starboard side and still has two intact guns. Susan B Anthony This 8,101-ton liner was acting as a troop ship when hit by a mine shortly after D-Day in 1944. At a depth of 30 metres and standing 14 metres form the seabed this is another excellent dive. The four-inch guns and countless portholes are still intact. Charter Boat 
We travelled on the 'White Horse'. This charter boat operates out of Weymouth. Skipper John Ayling demonstrated an extensive knowledge of the area and its history. As a diver himself he was well able to meet the requirements of divers and put us exactly on each site at exactly slack-water every time. The boat is clean, comfortable and well maintained, with all equipment in good working order. Breakfast, lunch, occasional snacks, unlimited tea and coffee and air fills were included in the price. The 'White Horse' carries oxygen that can be used to blend nitrox, but you have to have a qualified blender and be prepared to mix it yourself. For more information see the White Horse Charters web site at: http://www.whitehoursecharters.co.uk One final comment. On one day after the second dive was complete, the White Horse drifted a short distance from Omaha Beach while we enjoyed a barbecue on the deck. The sun was shining and the sea and sky were blue. Omaha is a nice sandy beach toped by a vertical cliff. Above the cliffs green farmland could be seen. It is hard to imagine a more idyllic location. Like most divers I consider myself to be reasonably fit, and I think I might just have been able to swim ashore and climb that cliff. I certainly could not have done it in a force seven gale, carrying equipment and ammunition and a gun, while being shot at! We can read about history in a book, or watch a documentary on the television, but only by visiting the location is it possible to truly appreciate the sacrifices that were made, and how that sacrifice affects the lives of all of us today, nearly sixty years later. Chris Ingham Severnside Sub Aqua Club http://www.severnsidesac.com July 2003 Return to FRANCE Main Page | ||||
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