NUNGWI, Northern Zanzibar

by Lucy Kublikowski

A beach resort on the north western most point of the island, with idyllic white sandy beaches and comfortable beach bungalow accommodation for about U$30 per room, per night. The coastline is dotted with hotels of all grades to the south, but Nungwi has everything a diver needs and is an easy one hour transfer from the main town - Stone Town.

The most well known dive site is Mnemba Island which lies off the north eastern point of Zanzibar. The island itself is home to an exclusive resort, but the surrounding coral reef is designated a marine reserve and for a $1 fee, can be dived by anyone.

There are 2 dive operators in Nungwi itself, one large outfit in the centre of the village and a smaller school, a 2 minute walk along the beach. Our initial enquiries about a 2 tank dive to Mnemba at the larger school, met with indifference and a bored 'patter', despite us being a party of 12 divers. They seemed to have plenty of customers with 2 dhonis going out every day, packed to the gills. We were pleased when we found the other school, Spanish Dancer, was more enthusiastic and accommodating.

A PADI school, they are happy to arrange the day excursion to Mnemba, taking not only divers but the snorkellers amongst the group as well. The cost was U$70 each for the 2 tank dive with lunch, all equipment and the Marine Reserve fee included. There was a 5% supplement if you paid by credit card though.

The trip out to Mnemba took us about an hour and a half to reach the picture postcard island of white sand and turquoise lagoons. The surrounding reefs were, to my mind slightly disappointing, whilst the visibility was good, the coral was in poor condition and I would have expected a wider variety of fish species. It was however pleasant resort style diving, marshalled by 2 Dive masters, the usual formula, 50 bar or 50 minutes, 30m max......

Spanish Dancer provided a great excursion with bottled water, between-dive snacks and a delicious lunch. Two of our party used their services again to complete their Advanced Open Water certification, diving on the off shore reef at Nungwi. I can't help feeling we had a better, personalised service using them rather than their larger neighbours.

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