Visiting New Zealand in 2004

by Mike Halligan

On three occasions, I was fortunate to be shown round by Kiwi divers, people I now rate amongst my best friends. These are the same guys who "adopted" a member of my Branch on his arrival from UK. Subsequently, they also leant kit to a total stranger who asked for help through the BSAC forum. Rather than describing dive-sites, let me give you a flavour of NZ diving.
The most important aspect of NZ, and most difficult for us to comprehend, is "She'll be right!" This all-embracing attitudinal tendency joins "No worries", "Sweet" and "Awesome" as the most used words in the Kiwi language. There is, however, no word in NZ to convey the urgency of the Spanish "maņana". After a total of 15 weeks in this Pacific Heaven, I can now avoid "You're not in UK now, so chill, bro." after only a few days.
This rightly proud nation lies between the approximate antipodes of Paris and Casablanca and has a climate ranging from arctic maritime to sub-tropical. It has its own, unique, indigenous flora and fauna some of which it is now hurrying to protect against predators imported from Europe. Regrettably many species have already succumbed to European influence (i.e. they died out). Kiwi culture has no intention of going the same way. Diving is largely unrestricted, but catches are regulated and in several clearly identified areas, banned outright.
One rule we find strange is the requirement for a "burst disc" in the pillar of every cylinder - imposed after a couple of very nasty accidents during filling. This makes the filling of ponies (themselves a subject of much amusement) somewhat difficult. Anyone expecting buddy diving is in for a shock too. Descriptions of diving styles might include same-ocean, starburst or Texas Scramble but rarely, if ever, buddy diving. A word of caution, you are dealing with people who know how to dive, in warm waters and cold. The best way to earn the withering contempt of Kiwis is to appear a condescending Pom. Kiwis know that Poms patronise, you needn't prove it. However, the best way to annoy a Kiwi is to mistake the accent or to bang on about Australia.
So what can one expect? First, distances seem longer, because roads are smaller and less direct. There is a 100kph speed limit, enforced with increasing vigour. Do not expect your UK licence to get you off, it is just as likely to antagonise (How would you like some flash Kiwi with more money than sense razzing down your street?). Second, a few items are unavailable in Kiwi (Twilight chocolates, seaside rock), some local products are novel (L&P "World famous in New Zealand", possum fur and excellent Summer Ale). Third, contrary to cosy rumour, NZ is not 1950's England stuck in a time warp. NZ is modern, where that is demonstrably better, traditional where it is not. NZ consciously chose a divergent path after we abandoned her in 1973. All the same, she did not follow Australia into deference toward the US and now faces discrimination as a consequence.
Most importantly, accommodation and food outlets are clean, comfortable, friendly and very good value. Banks and Post Offices are large, air-conditioned, efficient and friendly. EFTPOS is the preferred payment option, even in bars. However, few UK bank and credit cards work in EFTPOS terminals. Don't complain to the vendor, his compatriots have been using the system successfully for many years - to the point where cash is a novelty. Europe is only now catching up yet has the gall to think itself clever. Locals may dispute it but, to us, road fuel is cheap. In fact, many items important for the tourist approximate to "penny parity", whereby an 80p item here costs 80c there.
Dive shops offer local guided dives and run trips, sometimes over long distances, and they collaborate in providing information and services. Hire costs for dive gear are not excessive, though it is worth taking your own if you plan more than 4 days diving. Local hire kit is high quality. The on-cost of guided diving is not unreasonable and guides are more than ready to oblige. The approach tends to be "What would you like to do, and we'll see how we can manage that?" I cannot recall ever being told, "Today, we're all going to dive .........."
Arrangements made by phone are honoured. Those backed by credit card are bombproof, but this kind of guarantee is rarely demanded. There is a pride in customer service and hospitality that on first experience blows you away. Tipping is not general and what is to our eyes exceptional service deserving of recognition is merely the local norm. Tipping often brings a puzzled look and the embarrassed response "Mate, I do the same for everyone".
There are now more than sufficient dive shops, accommodations, travel providers and guides on-line for you to make almost all your arrangements in advance from your own PC. Frankly, you will be spoilt for choice if you use a broadly based search.
An International Driving Permit is NOT required in NZ. Members of AIT (Caravan Club, Camping & Caravanning Club, AA) and FIA (AA, RAC) motoring organisations may apply for reciprocal free membership of AA-NZ by calling at one of their centres. Other visitors can buy 6-months cover for $99. Plan to drive no more than 300 miles a day (it will be a long day). Avoid taking hire cars across the Cook Strait. In South Island, watch out for single lane bridges and particularly those shared with the railway! Look for holiday parks offering motel units. Never fear to ask, everyone is incredibly friendly and genuinely wants you to get the most out of your visit. Ask dive centres for recommendations, especially for places to eat and drink, but get some idea of the prices.
Consider travelling through North America and get the "piece system" baggage allowance. This allows 2 bags each up to 32kg even in economy. If you do this, then try to avoid LA, where clearance (in, out and transit) is a nightmare. If travelling eastbound, the Transit Hotel at Changi Airport is a must. It is a terribly long flight, yet a stopover is of little use since the second sector is almost 12 hours as well. Auckland Airport is quiet, airy and well organised - after the initial huge queue for Immigration. By the time you've cleared Immigration, your luggage should soon be available (unless of course you travel First or Business and hurry to the Immigration control, when you'll just have to wait). Unfortunately, you will probably land after a long flight and an in-flight breakfast at a ridiculous hour in the morning - and be so tired and woozy you will miss most of the pleasant bits! Travelling on any passport other than NZ or Australia, you must have a return or onward ticket and apparent means of support. You can exceed your Customs allowance by quite a bit and still not pay - but only if you declare the excess. However, don't even think of contravening bio-security regulations, you will be caught and can be deported for this. Whatever we may think, arriving from frontier-free Europe, Kiwis do not think our liberal ideas are at all funny. They depend on bio-security (see possums above)
So, what's the overall picture, then? NZ is big, very big, awesome in fact. It is homely and comfortable, English-speaking (sweet!) and without nasty animals, reptiles, insects or birds, except the sand flies and the Kea - which entertains itself removing rubber from car windows.
Lonely Planet publishes the excellent "Diving & snorkelling New Zealand" (ISBN: 1740592670). I have no hesitation in recommending it.

Mike Halligan, TO, Southport Branch


Return to New Zealand main page