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The Philippines
Why The Philippines?
Our BS-AC Branch (Peterborough) had run a trip to the Red Sea for three successive years, each year moving progressively further South to find something new, more interesting and less crowded. So we fancied something new, somewhere different perhaps, even something a little adventurous. Club members had been lucky enough to visit various locations around the world, but The Philippines promised something different. Encouraged by a neighbour who had good contacts and provided me with a fair amount of information, I researched the possibilities. I quickly realised that not only was The Philippines a very viable destination, but it also had lots of advantages.
Compared with many destinations, The Philippines is only beginning to open up although there are several well established safe dive operations out there. There are said to be over 3,000 species of fish and marine animals, about 50% more than the Red Sea and a wide diversity of dives. Additionally, there are over 500 species of soft corals and over 3,000 species of shellfish. A recent PADI (who?) report circulated to instructors said on average divers who discover The Philippines visit 10 times!
What is it like?
First and foremost the diving can be excellent and there is considerable choice - shore diving, islands too numerous to mention (more than 7,000 of them), remote reefs, Japanese wrecks and much more. The water is tropical and warm - mid to upper 20's degrees centigrade (we had 28o most of the time). The marine life is exquisite and in many areas there are very beautiful soft corals. In remoter areas you will see larger pelagics and may be lucky to see them close to some of the island too. Members of our party saw hammerhead and whitetip sharks, manta rays, merlin, large barracuda, sea snakes, moray and, naturally a wealth of coral fish of all shapes sizes and colours. The morning 8 whitetip sharks swam in staggered pairs just a few feet beneath me was a memorable one.
Unlike some locations which may have a few particularly large and developed dive centres, there are many smaller ones in The Philippines, so you need to choose where to go carefully. Criteria will depend on the type of diving you want, budget, how remote you want to get, how long you are prepared to travel to your destination and how long you are staying. There are good sites fairly close to the capital, Manila, such as Subic Bay and Batangas with Puerto Galera just a little further. Better areas are Boracay famous for its pure white sands (which are popular) Cebu and Moalboal, including Pescador Island. Then there is Bohol and surrounding islands with Palawan and the Sulu Sea having the best reputation. These latter areas are harder to get to and therefore more expensive. So it's simply a question of balance; generally the better areas are more remote and thus more expensive.
Although it is possible to dive throughout the year, it is generally considered that the best "season" is December through to May. July to September brings the monsoon, although this can also bring interesting fish.
It would be inappropriate to write anything about The Philippines without mentioning the Filipinos. Frankly, they are unforgettable - especially friendly and relaxed, lacking in pretensions and ever helpful to ensure you have a memorable holiday. The men will help you out of any scrape and the women are simply beautiful, depending on your point of view of course.
Advantages
These are numerous:
- There has been a strong US influence since the Second World War. Some might say this was a disadvantage, but it means that English (with an American accent!) is widely spoken. It also means that the supply of diving kit is good, much coming direct from US manufacturers, and the training in many dive schools is of a satisfactory standard and some of it is excellent.
- Cheap cost of living - food, drink (London gin £2 a litre, local beer 40 pence a bottle), general consumer purchases, clothing, petrol (11 pence a litre) etc are all exceptional value. However, you also have to remember that typical wages are only around £1,000 per annum. The Filipinos are not known for their materialism and are a pretty modest nationality.
- Food is good, fresh and varied. Some would say that Filipino food, like Thai cuisine is midway between Chinese and Indian. They have various rice dishes, often spicy ones and a good deal of fish. We had various fish and meat meals, good soups and enjoyed our "American" breakfasts. There is plenty of fresh fruit, including many exotic ones, and vegetables. Eating out is excellent value for money. Even if you are not adventurous in your tastes, you should not find the local dishes too extreme; there is something for everyone.
- Diversity - shore, Bancas - mid-sized dive boats with outriggers, safaris, liveaboards, basic and luxury hotels, romantic bamboo huts to modern air con suits. Beginners, Novice to Advanced. World class dives. There is a wider variety of diving than say the Red Sea, but equally divers have to allow for tides and currents which can be quite strong in some areas. Water speed can be still or you can have a fast drift dive. In some areas, seas can become rough, but this is not always the case, of course.
- Islands - Over 7,000 of them to choose from. Many of them idyllic and very beautiful. Covered in coconut palms and with wide sandy beaches. A few, notably Palawan, still have tracts of jungle, others have turned to agriculture. There are some more industrialised areas around the largest cities -manila and Cebu, for instance, but The Philippines are not known for their industrial base.
- You can get the best of all worlds combining a fabulous diving experience with a location which ensures you have a relaxing and scenic holiday in a tropical paradise.
- Telecommunications in general are advanced. Much of my arranging was done by e-mail/fax and received quick responses. However, contact with some of the islands is a little patchy.
Disadvantages
Given that The Philippines are half the way round the world, there is naturally a "price" to pay for something special and this can generally be summarised as:
- Distance: with the country being 8 hours ahead of GMT and the flight from UK 13 or 14 hours, you "loose" almost a day getting there. Given the distance then, you have to accept that you will not get a cheap flight. However, there are a number of airlines which fly direct or indirect to The Philippines (normally Manila or Cebu) so it pays to shop around for deals or discounts which are available.
- The very existence of remoter islands and the geography also means that some of the better dive sites require you to take an internal flight within the country. Such flights are not particularly expensive, but they do add to your journey time.
Where did we actually go and why?
Having investigated various alternatives, we considered it best to compromise between avoiding the better known areas closer to Manila and the expense and unpredictability of traveling to remote areas which might have the best diving, but which could be unpredictable. Given the time and distance travelled, we felt it was worth paying just a little more (£45) for an return internal flight to get us away from the busier dive locations. We opted to go to Alona Beach on Panglao Island, which is just off Bohol. Here we found a small island village of bamboo buildings with a handful of dive operators running several Bancas (native dive boats with out outriggers able to take about 12 to 18 divers) from a beautiful white sandy beach. It was an idyllic setting, yet provided sufficient dive amenities. There was a home reef a just a few hundred yards from the beach with a good range of marine life and sufficient interest for the relatively inexperienced diver. Further afield, there are a range of dive sites of varying complexity and diversity. These range from a short Banca trip away to a journey of half a day or so if you want. These range from shallow coral gardens to walls and deep drop offs. We visited remoter spots frequented by pelagics and visited by hammerhead and whitetip reef sharks. We had fast drift dives and gentle dives a stone's throw from sandy shores of fishing villages. During our visit we were able to dive from Panglao and nearby, Balicasag Island, Cabilao Island, Apo and Sumilon Islands. Nearly all dives are listed in Jack Jackson's book (q.v.). He lists those at Balicasag as "World Class". As you can imagine, we were well and truly spoilt!
Our diving hosts were Genesis Divers, considered by many to be "the best on the beach". A German/Filipino husband and wife run operation, it was well organised and had a good stock of equipment. The proprietor, Giso Stuhldreher, has a plethora of PADI qualifications and is well respected. Divemasters and guides are well trained and competent in how they ran operations. They displayed the appropriate level of knowledge, skill, caution and encouragement. About half our party were BS-AC Sports divers, with the rest of us being Dive Leaders or Advanced divers and instructors. There was one novice in our group. All of us were well provided for by our three near bi-lingual German girl dive guides and Rudy, the Filipino Banca skipper.
The majority of dive visitors come in ones and twos, often from Australia, US, Germany and Japan, so our sizable group of 18 BS-AC divers was something of a novelty. We were closely inspected during our first dive, which we had within about an hour of arrival - they know what a diver wants! After that they readily appreciated that we knew what we were doing and gave us a healthy respect for our training and understanding of safe diving practices. Their own standards were good, although we noted that there were no oxygen sets or radios on the bancas. Standards were not universally good though. The Japanese seem to take risks, one, who was staying at Alona (but not our dive centre) being killed a couple of weeks before our arrival following three very deep dives in fairly quick succession without anything like adequate decompression.
How did we arrange it all?
Actually with a great deal of hard work which built up a pile of faxes and e-mails about 2cms thick. There are few contacts in UK which operate to The Philippines, which of course make it all the more exclusive. I was lucky enough to have some good personal contacts who worked for the Philippine Tourist Authority and Philippines Airlines. These proved helpful and reassuring. Working from first principles and booking direct enabled us to achieve good value. Careful preparation and asking detailed questions about exactly what we were getting and the facilities and equipment available, all of which were patiently answered, removed much of the worry and unpredictability of the trip in advance.
Was it worthwhile?
Emphatically YES. We had a fabulous trip - the diving was great as was the holiday in general.
What will it cost?
This is a "how long is a piece of string?" question. It of course depends very much on what you want to do, where you go and the standard of accommodation you require. Through careful planning we were able to work out a complex package - international flights, local flights, transfers, stop-over in Manila, full board accommodation, dive package, diveboats with guides and a two-day dive safari to some remoter islands all for around £1,000 a head. You could certainly pay less than this, or substantially more. Given the distance though, this is not somewhere you would go to for a one week holiday.
Visas
Do you need a Visa? Generally no. There is a scheme in operation whereby those going for a short visit of no more than 21 days do not need a Visa if they have a British Passport valid for at least 6 months and a return or onward ticket.
More information
I strongly recommend any one who is genuinely considering The Philippines for their next trip should obtain a copy of "The Dive Sites of The Philippines" by Jack Jackson, New Holland, London 1995, ISBN 1 85368 516 X. This is an informative, unbiased and well researched book. Having met Jack, I know him to be a professional in his field and he is spoken of highly within Philippines tourism circles and among those locals I met. The book is advertised regularly in Diver magazine.
Further, general information can be obtained from the Philippines Tourist Office who have a mine of information about the country and where to go. The also provide useful maps of various island and other guides.
On a personal note, I am also happy to give particulars and general guidance if prospective visitors contact me at my Internet address - dixon.david@virgin.net
David S Dixon
Vice-Chairman, Peterborough BS-AC
Our thanks to Kevin Markee and Toshio Tsubota for kind permission to use their splendid photographs.
Any contributions to this section will be most welcome. Do you have any useful tips and experience which could prove useful to other divers, about travel conditions, booking, flying, other modes....?
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