TRAVEL CLUB
Search the BSAC Web Sites:

    
Search the Travel Club:



The Philippines

The 'Sangat' adventure

Something different this year we thought, lets go native in Asia. Our group of 8, consisting of 3 couples,(male & female) and 2 single men from Loughton branch 365 wanted a dive holiday incorporating the best of all worlds, Wrecks, Reefs, beach, Sun, night life and a little adventure. I had the pleasure of arranging it.
Having heard about a rather strange Englishman who runs a dive resort from a small Island in the Philippines, this seemed to fit the bill.
The Island is called 'Sangat' but the locals and some old charts know it as 'Tangat'. Situated in Coron bay in the northern part of Palawan province and surrounded by the South China Sea it sounded like paradise. It was!
A search of the Internet and a visit to a friendly travel agent found that Air France offered the most direct flights within our price range. The return flight from London to Manila including tax came to £565.00, although classed as direct, we did stop in Paris on both legs for about an hour to change aircraft. The total journey time being about 16 hours, then add to this 7 hours for the time change. There are cheaper airlines but they all involve a stop of between 4 and 6 hours in Kuwait or Dubai.
Sangat from the Bat Cave Our holiday began with a few drinks at Heathrow, before an 8pm take off. We decided to spend 2 nights in Manila to acclimatise and sample some of the night life (very interesting!!! some might say seedy). The Midtown Hotel comes highly recommended and is one of the few in central Manila with a swimming pool.
From Manila we flew with a local domestic airline 'Seair', on a 19 seat 'Islander' aircraft to the island of Buswanga. From there we were met at the green hut, which serves as an airport terminal, by 'Jeepney' (local road transport), for the 40-minute bumpy ride to Coron port. Andy, the strange Englishman from Sangat met us there and took us by 'Banca' to his island. This 90 minute boat ride on his traditional boat gave everyone a taste of the views, scenery, and sea conditions we were to experience for the next 11 days. The 'Banca' is the traditional craft used for fishing and transport. The slim wooden hull has bamboo outriggers on both sides a canvas canopy and an inboard engine, it was fast and stable in the sea conditions we encountered. They come in all sizes and look like giant spiders perched on the water.
On the trip to his Island, we got to know a little about our host, Andy Pownall. He is the son of a founder member of the East Anglian branch 11 and originally went to the Philippines on a treasure hunting expedition. It was obviously successful, as he has a lovely Filipino wife EB two daughters and a beautiful island. Not so strange after all.

The Island
The first view of the island was magnificent, a white sandy beach, lots of palm trees and lush greenery with10 traditionally built bungalows of wood, bamboo and thatch, barely visible between the palms.
Composed of an ancient seabed some 5km X 3km and rising 500 metres from the sea, the island is covered in dense undergrowth and trees. It is in a national conservation area and Andy is an honorary warden and coastguard. The resort is open all year, but during the short rainy season, there is a risk of typhoon, and the humidity is greatly increased, not to mention being very wet. The rest of the year has typically good SE Asian weather. During our stay we had unbroken sunshine, air temperatures of about 36°C and sea temperatures of 32°C. The ten twin/double bed guest cottages are raised on stilts, native style, and are comfortably equipped with en-suite tiled bathrooms, locally made cane furniture and mosquito nets. The usual precautions for travellers apply but mosquitoes pose a very small problem most of the time although they are more noticeable in the rainy season. Friendly native staff in the buffet style restaurant provide appetising meals, and the bar prices are extremely reasonable.
The cottages are gathered along a beautiful white beach within a few metres of the restaurant, bar and dive hut. From the beach, there is excellent swimming and a small reef for snorkelling and shallow dives.
Besides swimming and snorkelling there are sailboards and kayaks to use and one of the Banca's will take you to Coron or other islands in the group for a change of scenery. Guests can laze on the beach or the veranda of their cottage in very comfortable hammocks, or go climbing and exploring in the interior. A short kayak ride takes you to the mangroves and hot springs on the west of the island, beware they are very hot, but quite pleasant at sun-set with a beer or gin and tonic. There is an abundance of interesting wildlife including monkeys, monitor lizards, sea eagles and herons. Tarbons nest on the island as do the extremely rare Palawan Hornbill, we were fortunate to see them all, and much more.

The 5 Star Accommodation

The diving
A ten-minute boat ride takes you to the first wreck in a cluster of ten almost intact Japanese naval support ships from World War II. Sangat is uniquely placed to provide an intriguing insight to the battle of the Sulu Sea and the achievements of the US carrier-based aircraft that sank them. They are at an average depth of 25m with a maximum of 40m and make excellent diving for all classes. Our group consisted mainly of experienced North Sea and South Coast divers, but one couple were holiday divers who had not dived for over 3 years. A great deal is known about the history of these wrecks but even now new discoveries are being made. A potted history is available to read in Andy's bar, it includes some photographs and photocopies of the original battle plan. For the more experience there some excellent swim thru's and wreck penetration, Andy will take you on a guided tour inside some of the wrecks if you wish. Some Technical diving opportunities are available. All the wrecks have become well established reefs and are covered in hard and soft corals with a huge variety of exotic marine life and fish. Unfortunately large fish and pelagics are not so common, we did see turtle, barracuda and tuna but the abundance of smaller species more than made up for this.
Colourful reefs with a variety of sea-life make a pleasant change from the wrecks and can be incorporated as second/third dives or whilst visiting other islands. Not to be missed are Black Island and its wreck, Barracuda Lake and the cathedral dive on Coron island
An experienced and well-qualified PADI instructor runs the dive facility and the boat crews are friendly and most helpful. Nitrox is available and there is a range of good quality rental equipment. Like most club members we took our own regulators, jackets, computers etc.

Life on Sangat
It is not easy to explain the happy atmosphere and sheer charm of this resort and the cheerful staff who took care of us. You must try it yourself, you cannot fail to enjoy the experience.
Sangat Beach On the island we lived 'Island Style', and only needed a sarong or shorts, T-shirts and flip-flops, you can buy all of these in the cheap and cheerful market and shops on Coron so do not overpack. Andy has a few souvenirs and T-shirts for sale; he also has a satellite phone and Email facilities on the Island. For special events he also has a satellite TV, we watched the Queen Mother's funeral from the bar. Take a hand torch, the generator is switched of when the last person leaves the bar and the short walk back to the bungalows can be very dark. Arrangements on the Island are laid back and flexible, we chose to stay an extra night at Sangat and lose one night in Manila on the return. As Andy had made all our travel and Hotel arrangements within the Philippines, we left it up to him, 'No Problem'.

What's it all cost?
Hotels in Manila are between $40 and $80 (US) per night for a double air-conditioned room with breakfast. (Midtown Hotel with pool is $80) The exchange rate was $1.40 (US) or 72 Piso to the pound, but beware of the street touts offering to change money, you get a better rate but often get 'ripped off. They belong to the magic circle and manage to palm the money after you have counted it but before it reaches your pocket. Good to watch, but annoying, as some of our group found to their cost. (Stick to the banks) The domestic return flight with Seair from Manila to Buswanga is about $100.
Taxis around Manila are cheap if you insist on the meter being switched on; taxis to and from the airport are about 300 Piso. Meals are generally cheap, but drinks in the Hotels are expensive. Local bars are much cheaper and if you venture into the 'Girlie' bars (Women and couples are welcomed) the average price of a large San Miguel is 50 Piso.
Andy charges $60 per night full board, this includes transfers to and from Buswanga airport. Tea coffee and fresh water all day, and use of the kayaks/sail-boards etc. The diving is charged at $25 per dive including tank and weights, with a 10% discount for 10 or more. Equipment hire and Nitrox are extra.
The nearest hyperbaric chamber is in Manila, but there are hospitals at Coron and on the nearby Island of Cullion. Our 16 day holiday, which included return flights London/Manila, (2 nights travel) 3 nights in Manila, 11 nights on Sangat, 18 dives, Nitrox, taxis and internal flights, but excluding spending money, averaged out at £1650.00 per person. Beware of the excess baggage charges on domestic flights, the average allowance for check in luggage is 10Kgs. Top tip from Andy, put all your heavy kit in hand baggage or if you are in a group, buy an extra seat (cargo seat), we did and it was considerably cheaper than paying the excess baggage charge.
Many of the Filipinos who work abroad try to get home for Christmas and Easter, so fares tend to rise at these times.
Credit cards, US dollars or Philippine Piso are all acceptable in Manila, and there is much to spend them on. The Robinson shopping mall next to the Midtown Hotel has at least 30 shoe shops. There are a number of local markets selling produce, clothes and handicrafts some of these can be dirty and smelly with the risk of pickpockets and beggars etc. If you do visit them,(we did) don't be put off, but stay in a group. Shops on the Islands accept US Dollars and Piso, as does Andy on Sangat
For more information look at www.sangat.com.ph or Email me at adyphillips@nascr.net and I will be pleased to assist with your booking and provide further information.

Adrian Phillips
1st May 2002

All photographs taken by Adrian Phillips, Loughton Branch 365 and East Anglian Branch 11. BSAC OWI and Advanced Diver.
Contact telephone number 020 85291227

Any contributions to this section will be most welcome. Do you have any useful tips and experience which could prove useful to other divers, about travel conditions, booking, flying, other modes....?
Send all contributions to Webmaster.



©2004 BSAC |  Members Home Page |  Member Services |  Technical Services |  BSAC News