Diving the Similan Islands and Burma Banks on Mermaid 1

by Margaret Wilcock.

When I saw details of a club trip to Thailand my immediate comment was "That looks good". I jumped in and said I would like to go - I was right, it was a superb trip.

After a day travelling we arrived in Phuket where we settled into the hotel then went out to see Patong beach. The following afternoon we were taken out to Mermaid 1 when we realised that the large ship moored in the bay, which we had noted earlier was the QE2. As we set out from the harbour the traditional firecracker was set off from the bow of the boat. We settled into our rooms then sampled our first meal on board before retiring to the throb of the boat engines.

The following morning we had arrived at our first dive site in the Similan Islands where we plunged into warm clear seas for the first dive before breakfast. The site known as "hideaway" had a sandy bottom with boulders, we swam between these enjoying the spectacle of brightly coloured coral heads and multicoloured tropical fish in clear warm waters. Breakfast followed the first dive with the second dive following at late morning. The second site of "Elephant rock" was our introduction to some of the stronger currents which we would encounter throughout the trip. On emerging from the dive there was a strong swell and we found that the boat decks were wet from a short but heavy storm, which we had missed.

The pattern of diving then eating continued with lunch and throughout the entire trip with 4 dives a day scheduled. The sites through the Similan Islands were varied, often with currents but with spectacular fish life and corals. One of the outstanding dives was that at Kow Bon where we hung on to the rocks and watched the Manta rays gliding past like spaceships from a science fiction movie. Their movement seemed so graceful and effortless into a fairly strong current. On the same dive we also saw leopard sharks swimming and an abundance of other marine life.

After 4 days in Thai waters we went to the Thai border crossing at Ranong, which consisted of a pier and 2 small shops where we spent hours waiting for customs clearance out of the country before continuing to the Myanmar [Burma] port of Kaw Thaung and the Burmese customs. We left port shortly after dark to the crackle of the firecracker from the bows and sailed west through the night towards the Burmese banks.

We awoke the following morning to find ourselves moored near a large rock in the open ocean, a site known as sharks' cave. Here we found a site teaming with fish life including reef sharks, morays and scorpion fish but with strong currents and poor visibility, it was even compared to the cove!

Over the next few days on the Burma banks sites we saw nurse and leopard sharks, both sleeping and free swimming. At the other end of the scale were sea horses, decorated crab and ghost pipe fish, together with many scorpion fish, morays and a host of other reef fish and corals.

The outstanding dive was at Silvertip Bank where we joined "Bob" the potato cod, who liked being stroked and "Barry" the barracuda who circled round the divers and even followed as we ascended up the line and swam to the boat. We anchored ourselves to the rocks and let them do the swimming. Towards the end of the dive there was a frantic rattling from the dive master as he streaked upwards towards a whale shark, the first he had seen in 2 years.

The sites were notable for the large number of scorpion fish, it was always wise to check before holding on to a rock. Additionally there were several species of moray and on one dive we watched 14 squid "dancing" and changing colour as they repeatedly went in and out from under a rock. We had an excellent guide who was superb at finding small things like the sea horses. We observed the sea life from the small and delicate ghost pipe fish to the large and gently moving nurse and leopard sharks up to the majestic whale shark, albeit at a distance and watched the graceful movement of the manta rays through the water.

In addition to the diving from the boat we saw dolphins swim past, watched a green sea turtle which preferred banana and banana skins to lettuce fed from the boat and at night saw hundreds of small red crabs round the boat. We emerged from a night dive to a myriad of stars and watched the sun rise and set over a clear blue ocean. The diving and pick ups were from either the large boat or the rib [with fold up steps] as circumstances directed and throughout the staff were helpful and attentive The diving finished we returned to Kow Tung where we spent a few hours on land and visited a Buddhist monastery, returning to the boat via the town markets. We then went on to Ranong from where we returned by minibus to Phuket [4 hours journey].

In Phuket we went to Simon's cabaret and on the last day rode elephants, visited a Buddhist temple/cave surrounded by monkeys with the cave full of bats and went by boat to James Bond Island, arriving back just in time to change and leave for the airport.

Mermaid Liveaboards

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