Diving in Malaysia’s Tioman Island (with Bali Hai Divers)
by Crispin Coates

Peninsular Malaysia’s eastern coast appears to have been eclipsed of late by the emergence of Sipadan, however in August 2004, I was able to visit Tioman Island some 2 hours by ferry from the town of Mersing in the South Eastern corner of Malaysia. Tioman is considered to be one of the gems of the South China Sea, it is on the backpacker trail and is also within a few hours of Singapore’s weekend visitors.

We were housed in air-conditioned chalets in a beautiful secluded location known as Penuba Bay (costing some 70 Ringitts, approx 10 pounds a night for 2), there are some six resorts along the coast, all of which have dive centres nearby. Ours was located right within this tiny resort and sits by the jetty. There are no real roads on virtually any of Tioman and subsequently everything moves by small boat or ferry.
The dive centre is owned by a friendly American couple Javier and Colleen, they’ve been in the area for 7 years and know the sites well. Javier is keen to promote Technical Diving and the centre offers Nitrox, being a PADI school. We were met by the centre’s Dive Master Sam, a friendly English woman who exudes enthusiasm, customer service and professionalism. After a check of qualifications, we were booked into what was to become a very enjoyable four day package. A day of 2 dives, full kit and boat transfer costs 160 Ringitts a person some (23 pounds), out on reefs up to 30 mins away by boat.

The diving was superb, although the viz. was not fantastic we saw a profusion of marine life. The water temp was a consistent 28°C and occasionally strong currents around the islands ensured fans, corals and fish life were excellent. The whole area has been a marine reserve since the 1980s and subsequently coral and marine life has prospered. On one dive some 6 turtles were spotted in addition to shoaling squid, a few barracuda and the usual mix of nudibranchs and angel fish to name but a few. Our party tended to reflect the mix of visitors from all over the world some of whom struggled with the currents.

We were able to dive a wreck (in very poor viz, but with prolific marine life), on occasions some sites were crowded (six boats) but on others we were very much alone. Bali Hai is perhaps the most welcoming dive centre I have encountered and provides a professional, relaxed service. The kit provided was also in very good condition. The boat is well laid out, maintained to a good standard and follows good practice as regards to conservation and dive safety.

Only a few hours up the coast, controversy centred over diving the Prince of Wales and Repulse (both sunk in WW2) and now war graves. Needless to say we did not fancy the trip, being more than satisfried by the reefs. The centre closes Dec-Mar each year, as does most of the Island.In adidition to Bali Hai, B and J’s Diving appeared a major player, as was another dive outfit Anemone Divers. See the Rough Guide or Lonely Planet for other details.

All in all, while Tioman may not be the most accessible place to get to (Mersing is some 2-3 hours from Singapore by road), with a bumpy ferry crossing to the Island. The trip provided excellent value for money, the diving was very good, the islands around are stunning and the snorkelling itself is of an excellent standard,. For those looking for a few days' diving, Tioman would be hard to beat, and in particular Bali Hai Divers offers a memorable experience.


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