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Maldives – Velavaru
by Stuart J Wall
After spending our first week in Meeru were we really ready for the early start that lay ahead of us as laid down on the Itenary for our transfer to Velavaru, after breakfast at 06:15 we were soon on the speedboat with our luggage for the 1 hour journey to Male’. We checked in with Trans Maldivian Airways for the Seaplane transfer and were soon airborne for the 150 Km flight from Male’ which took us around 40 minutes. We passed over the many atolls on route , so inviting to a diver, some of them resembling blue holes from the aircraft window from where we were sitting.
By 9am we were sitting down to the buffet breakfast once again on this tranquil island in the South Nilandlhe Atoll reflecting on how well organised and efficiently the transfer had been. The island was opened in December 1998 and being 500 metres in length and only 200 metres wide is considered to be an average sized Maldivian Island, although a lot smaller than Meeru with a total of 84 bungalows, 60 superior and 24 deluxe. Our Superior Bungalow was ideal with King Size bed, its en-suite, Fridge and safety deposit box as standard amenities. On an evening all you could hear was the lapping of the Indian Ocean, which was only metres from the door to our own wooden veranda.
Once again we were offered various trips in our All-inclusive package, Night fishing, and visits to other nearby islands but we had decided that this week was to be a total relaxation week for the both of us and diving was on my own personal agenda. The food at Velavaru was of Buffet style and the selection was vast with a mix to suit all tastes and cultures, although there was the option available of
A la Carte and Seafood specialities at another restaurant overlooking the sea at an additional cost if required.
I soon made my way to the Swiss owned Ocean Pro Dive Centre and received a warm welcome from the staff, my diving credentials were checked out and I was checked in. Like Meeru I was given my allocated space in the wet room to store my equipment and my own personal box for storing my equipment on the boat which needed to be neatly packed and left for collection 30 minutes before departing for a dive. The PADI-run centre had around 6 Staff and provided a range of PADI courses up to Divemaster level, they also ran daily drips for all levels of qualified divers in the morning and afternoon to nearby sites the majority of which could all be reached in under an hour. All that was required was to place your name on the dive list for the dive you intended to do and the map of the site was placed next to the list so you could see the level of experience required for the dive and the strengths of any currents that you would expect to encounter on the dive. The centre even had a list placed on their notice board for clients special requests whether it be for Sunset, early morning, Two tank or night dives or maybe “I would like to see a shark dive” they always endeavoured to accommodate the customers needs which in my own view is the way it should be at these dive centres. As for equipment they had a vast range of relatively new gear for rental, like Meeru a dive computer and Delayed Surface marker Buoy was part of the Mandatory kit so if you did not have your own then you would need to rent them. Unfortunately Nitrox was not available in the centre but it is planned to be available at the centre later in the year like the Ocean Pro Centre at Meeru.
As I had already completed 6 dives with Ocean Pro on Meeru the previous week and on producing my receipt from Meeru I was automatically qualified to start receiving discounts for the diving I did at Velavaru, and there was no need for me to undergo another check-out dive. The check-out dive is mandatory for all customers on their first dive but is no great hard ship as it is completed on entering the water for your first dive before descending to your maximum planned depth. Divers basically need to display competence in Mask and regulator removal, followed by breathing from an alternative air source as a victim and a donor, it only takes a few minutes and then you’re on your way.
My first day's diving at the resort was to be at Kuda Giri from one of the Dhonis that left the centre twice a day to different dive sites, the efficient Maldivian staff had transferred all the personal equipment there in their respective crates so all I needed to do was kit up and dive. The staff here seemed more relaxed than at Meeru and, as I was to discover, each day as the party kitted up the Dive guide mapped the dive site on his whiteboard then gave the dive brief before we set off. The briefings were really informative and this time the staff reminded all divers to undertake a buddy check prior to entering the water. Each time we arrived on location at the dive site the guide would enter the water, do a check on the current then come back on the boat and fill the customers in on the final intricacies of the dive plan.
We arrived at Kuda Giri and as soon as I descended It became obvious as to the contrast between Meeru and Velavaru, the corals were in abundance, both hard and soft as we reached our maximum 30 metre depth and made our way gently around the reef we sighted all the usual reef dwellers you would expect but the white coral was there in abundance here. This was total enjoyable relaxed diving as we gradually made our way up from the reef until we came head on into the current. The general consensus here was why fight it so we simply turned around and back-tracked on our trail exploring the reef at a shallower depth, so many times have I seen the dive guides take their clients head on into the current to exhaust their air supplys but the guides here loved their job and they were determined to ensure everyone achieved the maximum dive time of one hour. All too soon we were sitting at 5 – 6 metres completing the mandatory safety stop before breaking the surface to be collected by the Dhoni in the extensive heat of the day.
Once we arrived back to the resort the equipment was left on board and I met up with my wife for the buffet lunch. The food here was again excellent with lots of variety in the menus and besides that you could eat as much as you wanted, maybe I would not need that weight belt for the afternoon dive after all after eating this lot!
The format in the afternoon was the same but this time the site was Bandidhoo Thila, we descended into the blue and were joined by a large shoal of blue fusiliers, then the bat fish joined us for the duration of the dive playfully dodging in and out of our exhaust bubbles. We swam out onto the satellite reef where we reached our maximum depth spotting an abundance of marine life and a kaleidoscope of colour before returning to the main reef to drift along with the current . Once again this was no let down or fluke dive but only reiterated the fact that this area has definitely removed from the effects of global warming as the diving was far superior to that in Meeru.
Once we arrived back to the centre our equipment was returned in the crates by the staff so it could be washed and dried out ready for the next day.
The next day the format was the same and so was the marine life. Those who were suitably experienced were given a free rein to dive in their respective buddy pairs or follow the guide if they so wished. The afternoon dive of that day however was a memorable dive at Kuda Thila. My buddy for the afternoon was the dive guide Kudu who had vast extensive knowledge of the area. As we descended on the main reef we were swiftly swept along in the strong current amongst the batfish and fusiliers that lay stationary in the water. We swam diagonally into to the current and were soon swept onto a satellite reef. We both tied off onto a rocky ledge situated on a sandy plateau just in front of the reef then were shortly joined by a huge but inquisitive napoleon wrasse. But this was not what we were waiting for as Barracuda, tuna and Jacks circled in the blue Indian Ocean overhead our wish came true and there from the horizon appeared the black tip reef sharks. We lay motionless in the strong current enjoying the sight before our eyes until these predators disappeared into the blue. As we untied our lines the napoleon gave us a cursory look with his big brown eyes before we disappeared with the current and made our way onto the lee side of the reef where stonefish and other reef dwellers were again in abundance due to the nutrients carried in these strong currents.
Each day there was always something new to see and the names of sites like Miyaru Giri, Coma Thila, Meedhoo Corner and Dhara Wall spring to mind. Lhohi Caves was another excellent dive and well worth a visit as you just drifted along the reef wall exploring the caves and their beauty at which ever level you wished. White coral fluttered in the gentle current and again the sort corals were unbelievable as turtles swam past us unperturbed by our presence.
All to soon my weeks diving was over and after washing out my equipment in the huge freshwater tank and on payment of my account I received a detailed map of the dive sites in the area along with an Ocean Pro Discount card to use at any of the Ocean Pro Dive Centres which I may visit in the future at either the Maldives or the Red Sea. Discounts are offered by the centre for the more diving you do and after completing 6th / 7th dives it works out @ $28 a dive. Dive packages can be prebooked through Hayes and Jarvis in the UK but to be honest I sorted out my own diving on arrival at the resort and they accept payment by either Cash or by credit card.
On the whole I was really impressed with the staff and facilities at Ocean Pro in Velavaru and a special mention to the local knowledge, dedication and assistance of the local Maldivian Dive guides Ali and Kudo.
On our last day and in preparation for the 10-hour flight to Gatwick we decided to treat ourselves to the Duniye Spa where for $110 we received a His & Hers Thai Massage, which I can well recommend.
On reflection of the week we had spent on the Island we both came to the conclusion that it was an excellent location for a relaxing holiday, however those travelling with children may find it difficult to entertain their young ones on Velavaru as there is no swimming pool on the Island, only the blue lagoons that surround the beautiful white sandy beaches. Although July is classed as the rainy season we had a total of around 6 hours rain during our stay with temperatures well exceeding 35 degrees however the light breeze tended to keep you reasonably comfortable.
The next day we set off early in the morning by Seaplane to Male’ to catch our connecting flight to Gatwick, once again Hayes & Jarvis had all our transfers superbly organised and they ran like clockwork. At check in all went smoothly and there were no problems with 30 Kgs of dive gear. There was time however to spend in the duty free shops once clearing passport control in Male’ and for divers there is a good range of dive computers, photographic equipment, underwater housings and dive watches available at substantial discounts.
As we had a daytime flight from Male’ we arrived in London Gatwick around 18:15 local time and were greeted by a typical summer evening of cloud and rain.
The booking for this trip was made over the internet with Hayes and Jarvis and we kindly received a 10% discount for the simple operation, however after paying our deposits and on advising the tour operator that I was a BSAC club member we received a further 5% discount, I must admit that this was beyond belief as I thought that once our deposits were paid that no adjustments would be made to the confirmed price.
Further details of the resort and the diving can be found on the following website:
http://www.velavaru.com
The tour operator used was Hayes and Jarvis and they offer a discount to all BSAC members, there web site is as follows: http://www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk/index.asp
Should anyone wish to contact me I would be more than happy to answer any queries or offer any advice, my e-mail address is as follows: stuwall@shearwater51.fsnet.co.uk
Happy Bubbling and safe diving
Stuart J Wall
BSAC Advanced Instructor No 3206
Padi Instructor No 617339
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