A liveaboard dive cruise on the West Coast of Scotland.
May 2004

by Richard Booth

Liveaboard diving in the UK? Until very recently I had always shied away from considering such a proposal and looked forward instead to trips to far-flung and exotic destinations where clear water, big fish and good weather can usually be guaranteed.
In May of this year however, in company of four other hardy souls I headed up to Scotland to experience the pleasures of a UK based liveaboard trip on the West coast of Scotland...
The chosen vessel, the MV Sea Otter, a 20 m motor cruiser built by its owner and skipper Chris Ireland, in his former fabrication factory in Hebburn on the river Tyne. The boat is constructed to an Australian design, with a solid hull, designed to ride out big southern ocean swells.

It soon became obvious that the Sea Otter is very much a labour of love for Chris. It is his baby, constructed over many months by himself. There is not a nut or bolt on the vessel that Chris is not familiar with, and on the rare occasions that mechanical problems might arise, his intimate knowledge of the boat means that they can usually be speedily resolved.

The Sea Otter is equipped with a forward cabin with four berths, as well as one additional twin cabin for the use of guests. Downstairs also boasts a shower, washroom and a single toilet.
The boat is equipped with a small galley, complete with fridge freezer. For this trip, we went self catering, but also took full advantage of pub food ashore when available.

From a diving point of view, the boat is equipped with two compressors, emergency oxygen, a nitrox fill system and an amazing hydraulic lift system, designed and constructed by Chris, which ensures the easiest of exits by a fully kitted diver from the water back onto the stern deck. It proved to be an extremely popular feature with all concerned on our trip. It has to be experienced to be believed!
Unlike some of the bigger liveaboards that operate in these waters, the Sea Otters range is presently limited to the area around Mull, Tiree, Coll and Skye, with no current plans to visit more remote and exposed sites such as St Kilda
The skipper has a good knowledge of these local waters and the relatively sheltered nature of some of these sites means that diving can take place during most weather conditions likely to be encountered in this part of the world.
The nature and unpredictability of the West coast climate however, does mean that nature can end up dictating the sites and places that can be safely visited and dived. In our case, strong southerly winds ruled out our earlier plans to visit and dive around Coll and Tiree.

Heading up to Skye instead, shelter was sought in Loch Nevis and we experienced the delights of diving for, and devouring fresh scallops.
Most of the diving on our trip however involved wreck diving on some of the West Coast's more famous and well known sites.

SS Rondo: This dramatic wreck site is situated in the Sound of Mull just off the small hamlet of Salen on the rocky outcrop of Dearg Sgeir. The Rondo ran aground here in January 1935 after dragging her anchor in a gale. The crew were safely rescued, and the vessel was subsequently extensively salvaged. However, the remains of the hull dramatically slipped off the rocks and today the wreck plunges down a steep underwater cliff. The bow lies partially buried in the muddy bottom at fifty metres. The rudder and the remains of the stern (minus prop) lie just under the surface. This site can, with care, be dived at most states of the tide as shelter can usually be found within the remains of the hull.

SS Hispania: One of Scotland's most famous wreck sites also situated in the Sound of Mull. Wrecked in December 1954, the crew were all rescued with the exception of the captain, Ivan Daks, who chose to go down with his sinking ship.
This wreck site is situated in an area of strong tidal flow requiring good local knowledge of tidal conditions as it is a slack water dive.
The wreck is largely intact, festooned in colourful marine life, and appears to be taking on an increasing list onto her starboard side. The decks are situated in 20 metres of water with the sea bed to be found at 32 metres.

MFV Ton Vann: Wrecked in 2003, this wooden vessel lies in 32 metres of water in Loch Sunnart. The hull is largely intact with her superstructure still in place, with even her name plate still in place upon her bow. Efforts were made to raise her but without success, as the damaged inflation bags on her deck bear testament too. This site is not subject to the strong tidal movement, and is fairly sheltered. The seabed is very silty and easily stirred up.

SS Shuna: This vessel sank in 1913 after striking a nearby reef and despite the desperate attempts by her crew to beach her. Forgotten about for many years, the Shuna was rediscovered in the early 1990's by a local clam diver. The wreck is largely intact and sitting upright on a silty bottom in 32 metres of water. Its cargo of coal is still contained within the vessel's holds. Underwater visibility has apparently improved following the re-location of a nearby fish farm. This wreck is outside of the main tidal flow and can be dived at most states of the tide. The wreck site however is covered in a fine layer of silt which is all too easily stirred up by careless fins!

SS Thesis: Also situated in the Sound of Mull, this small cargo steam ship was wrecked in October 1889, whilst en route from Middlesbrough to Belfast with a cargo of pig iron. This wreck, despite its age, is largely intact and resting on a gentle slope with its bows situated in 15 metres of water and the stern lying in 32 metres. The Thesis has been the subject of some salvage work, resulting in the removal of hull plates from the bow area. With the sun in the right position, light pours through these gaps resulting in a very scenic dive. The Thesis is situated in an area of strong tidal currents requiring good local knowledge to dive her safely.

SS Breda: This Dutch merchant vessel was sunk as a result of enemy action by German aircraft on the 23rd December 1940. The wreck site was subsequently swept by wire removing most of the vessel's superstructure and bridge area. The hull is largely intact allowing easy penetration of the open hold areas where much of the cargo still remains in place. The stern area lies in 32 metres of water, with the remainder of the hull resting on a gentle upward slope with the bow situated in much shallower water. The Breda is covered in a layer of fine silt, which is all too easily stirred up by careless fins. Great care must also be taken when penetrating areas of this wreck. Over the years a number of divers have tragically lost their lives whilst exploring this site.

HMS Port Napier. A naval mine layer, sunk in November 1940 following an on board fire, this wreck lies on its starboard side in Loch Alsh just off the Isle of Skye. A converted merchantman requisitioned at the outbreak of the last war, the Port Napier today rests on the sea bed largely intact with its port side just breaking the surface at low tide. Much of its superstructure has fallen away, but the relatively clear waters and strong tidal current make for a clean dive in good visibility. Features worth looking out for include two 4-inch guns situated just back from the bow area. Indeed standing on the sea bed at 20 metres, one can often look up towards the surface and observe the bow towering impressively above one. Whilst the size and position of the wreck afford some shelter from the current, local knowledge of the tidal conditions should be sought to dive this site.

Situated close to the Port Napier are two other wreck sites. In a nearby bay lie the intact remains of a large barge reputed to have sunk during the war years. This wreck lies in 25 metres of water and is well worth a visit. The vessel is covered in a fine layer of silt; so again, good fining technique is required to avoid stirring up the sediment.
There are also the broken up remains of a local fishing boat, the Golden Harvest, situated on a reef just outside of Kyle of Lochalsh. Situated in only 10 metres of water, this site makes a good second dive, with the opportunity to have a good rummage in the kelp that covers this site.

As well as wrecks, the West Coast also offers a number of quality scenic dive sites. These include various wall dives along the Sound of Mull, as well as a dramatic cliff dive at Calve Island situated just off Tobermoray.

So how did this trip compare to past overseas liveaboard holidays? Well without a doubt I found the experience more strenuous than say a diving liveaboard charter in the Red Sea. The combination of dry suit, twin 10 litre cylinders, plus the added factor of diving twice a day and often in strong tidal currents, made for quite an exhausting experience, despite the benefit of the hydraulic lift.
The weather also proved to be unpredictable, to some extent limiting the sites that we could safely visit and dive. However, the nature of the Sound of Mull, ensured that we still could find somewhere to dive regardless of the wind direction.
Personally however, the trip awoke in me a renewed sense of adventure, and of being involved in something rather unique and not over commercialised, as so many overseas diving holidays appear to have recently become.
I for one will carry away pleasant memories of having had the privilege to visit remote communities along the Western Isles coastline, of eating freshly caught scallops, as well as of enjoying the simple pleasure of sailing down remote sea lochs surrounded by dramatic scenery. It is this combination of experiences that made this trip so unique for me. Will I be back for more? Yes, what with such a long coastline and so many islands still left to explore, the West Coast continues to offer the promise of a lifetime of future adventures to come.

Since writing this report Chris has sadly sold the Sea Otter and it is no longer available for charter. See below for information regarding other boats that offer similar charters on the West Coast of Scotland.

Hjalmar Bjorge
Elizabeth G
For charter and further information contact tel. 01680 814260
www.nothernlight-uk.com


Day Boats:
Silver Swift 01688 302390
E-mail: swift@scotshop.biz
www.silverswift.co.uk

Puffin Divers 01631 566088
E-mail: info@puffin.org.uk
www.puffin.org.uk

When to go?
April to October is the main season, although the nearby Gulf Stream ensures that more hardy divers can enjoy the above sites all year round.

What to wear?
A drysuit is highly recommended for all times of the year.

Emergencies:
Contact Clyde Coastguard. Tel. 01475 729988

Local decompression chamber
The Dunstaffnage Marine Laboratory.
Tel: 01631 562244

Accomodation:
Most local skippers and dive centres can arrange or advise on local accommodation. For information on campsites, B&B's and hotels, contact Oban tourist information office tel: 01631 563122 or visit: www.oban.org.uk

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