Aliwal Shoal, South Africa
Map - courtesy www.Divethebig5.co.za
Aliwal Shoal is the best known and most popular dive destination in South Africa. The Aliwal Shoal is an extensive, submerged reef located approximately 5km offshore, south of Umkomaas, near Durban. It is easy to see why this reef is so popular as its beauty equals that of many other famous dive sites worldwide.
The reef forms part of the offshore reef system that runs along most of the Natal coast, this system was formed by submerged dunes between eighteen and ten thousand years ago. Aliwal offers both spectacular reef diving with large sharks and other marine life plus excellent wreck diving on two wrecks.
The 'Produce' was a Norwegian bulk carrier that struck the north-east pinnacle of the Aliwal Shoal on 11 August 1974 and then drifted off to her present resting place where she lies on her side. No lives were lost. The other wreck in the vicinity is that of the “Nebo”, lying 27 meters below, and is merely a skeleton of the vessel.
The reef offers varied, spectacular and thrilling diving where no two dives are the same. The names of some of the reefs gives an idea of what to expect, such as "Amphitheatre", "Cathedral", "Shark Gully", "Raggie Cave", "Lionfish Hole", "Lace Reef" and "Pinnacle". There is an abundance of hard and soft coral, stunning coral fish and sponges to be seen, but the greatest attraction for divers must surely be the concentration of ragged-tooth sharks, or "raggies", especially during July through September.
Shoals of hammerhead sharks have been sighted on Aliwal in the past, while other species such as the fairly dangerous Zambezi shark have also been spotted occasionally. Whale sharks are quite common, and an absolute pleasure to see. There are also big sea turtles, huge potato bass, game fish such as kingfish, wahoo and tunny to be seen on the reef.
The Aliwal Shoal depth ranges from 9m to a maximum depth of 27m, with a visibility of anything between 2m to 30m+.
Umkomaas is a sleepy seaside town which serves as the gateway to the Aliwal Shoal. The Zulu name is Umkomanzi, which was given by King Shaka Zulu on one of his royal processions. He saw a number of whales and calves that were basking in the shallows a short distance from the river mouth. The name Umkomanzi means ‘The watering place of the whales’.
Umkomaas is approximately 50km south of Durban and Scottburgh a further 20km south. Umkomaas is approximately 6 hours from Johannesburg and about 30 minutes from Durban. There are various accommodation options from camping through small hotels, guest houses, lodges and bed and breakfasts. There are also many dive operators, and plenty of restaurants. You will be sure to meet plenty of other divers in the cafes and bars who will enjoy a discussion of the day's events and sights. Most overseas divers are on some sort of multi stop holiday and will spend two or three days at Aliwal - you could easily spend longer.
Some divers who regularly dive Aliwal say the dive is second only to the boat ride through the breaking surf to get to the shoal, some divers use up all their air on the ride out - before they even enter the water!
Aliwal enjoys typically hot South African summers and cooler winters, although the best time to dive here is from early May to late July, as sea conditions are at their best. A dry/semi dry suit is recommended, but it is not necessary.
Getting There:
Virgin Atlantic, British Airways and South African Airways are the only airlines that fly directly to South Africa. If you don't mind longer flights, Lufthansa is a good bet – you'll stop over in Frankfurt though. South Africa is such a large country that it is normal to fly between cities and this can save you a lot of arduous travel.
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Don't underestimate the boat ride out to the Shoal! Water conditions here are unpredictable. Some days it's flat, others a churning mass. Get some rib practice in before you go and take the advice of the dive masters who are very used to the conditions. Remember that sharks are unpredictable creatures. Do not annoy them and try and remain calm and not panic.
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