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The Marshalls - Bikini Atoll
While the Marshall Islands major attractions are the abundant dive wrecks, the vast majority of the country is waiting to be discovered. The Republic of the Marshall Islands consists of 29 atolls each made up of many islets and 5 islands in the central pacific between 4 degrees and 14 degrees North, and 160 degrees and 173 degrees East. The atolls and islands are situated in two almost parallel chain-like formations known as the Ratak (Sunrise) group and Ralik (Sunset) group. The total number of islands and islets in the whole Republic is approximately 1,225 spreading across a sea area of over 750,000 square miles. The total land area is about 70 square miles (181 square kilometres). The mean height of the land is about 7 feet above sea level (2 metres).
The wrecks of Bikini Atoll have been recently opened to diving. Radiation levels in the area are deemed to be below levels harmful to humans. It provides some of the most spectacular wreck diving to be seen anywhere.
Climate
The Marshall Islands has a warm, tropical climate. The dry season (the best time to travel) is between December and April; the rainy season, April to December, with the greatest falls between July and October. Temperatures average between 78-90°F (26-32°C), with the water temperature sitting on a comfortable year-round 82-84°F (28-29°C).
Recent history relates to WW2. The first Micronesian islands captured by the Americans in WWII were at Kwajalein Atoll in 1944. Majuro Atoll was taken next and quickly developed into a base for aircraft carriers. Within weeks some 30 other islands had fallen. After the war, the Americans immediately began to test atomic bombs on Bikini and Enewetok atolls. (Kwajalein was later established as a missile testing site.) Chief Juda of Bikini was convinced to move his people - for the 'benefit of mankind' - to Rongerik Atoll, on the understanding that they'd be able to return to their homeland after the tests were over. A few months later, the USA exploded the first of the 23 nuclear devices that were to be detonated at the atoll, 500ft (150m) over its lagoon. The wrecks of Bikini Atoll remain, deemed safe for diving just over 50 years later.
Diving
Bikini Atoll opened for diving in 1996.The first two tests at Bikini, named Able and Baker, were staged to test the effect of nuclear weapons on a fleet of ships. 42,000 men, rats, goats, radiation recording devices, and of course many ships were sent to Bikini for these tests. Half the world's supply of motion picture film was there to record the event. It was a big show. Naturally, the tests were 'successful' and the ships were sunk. On Bikini Atoll today there are nine ships to dive on, most notably is the USS Saratoga, a 300 metre (900 foot) long aircraft carrier that is bigger than the Titanic. The Saratoga has eight decks to explore. Also, there is the Nagato, which was Admiral Yamamoto's flagship in World War II from where he ordered the attack on Pearl Harbour. There are also two submarines, two attack transports, one other battleship and two destroyers. It is wreck diver heaven – beyond belief!
The Saratoga... Where to begin? When you go down on the aircraft carrier, sinking for the first time into the massive elevator shaft, and then swimming through the hanger deck at 45 metres (130 feet), past the airplanes parked and ready to go to war, past the 250 and 500 kilogram bombs, past the rockets and the little things lying around like coffee pots, light bulbs and plates, well, it is almost like being on the moon.
Note: Due to average diving depth beyond 40m (130ft) all dives on Bikini Atoll are decompression dives and only suitable for advanced divers with considerable experience in deep and wreck diving.
Photos by Gordon Mackie
Worldwise
There are reef dives – spectacular ones – on Bikini that are suitable for recreational divers who feel that the deeper wreck dives are out of their range. Please remember that when you go to Bikini you don't just go diving , fishing and sunbathing, you get a history lesson. Over the course of your visit you will have the opportunity to view historical documentary films and attend briefings about each of the ships and their respective histories. You will be invited to tour the atoll and villages. The Bikinians feel this to be important because this allows their story to be taken away by tourists and retold to their families and friends. In short, the tourism program helps perpetuate a story the islanders never want to see go away, ever.
Try and go for longer than one week – it’s not enough.
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BSAC TRAVEL CLUB BOOKSHOP SELECTION
in association with amazon.co.uk
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Bikini Atoll Testing Site
Bikini Atoll by Gordon Mackie
Do You Glow In The Dark Now? by Steve Chaplin
Guide to Micronesia
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