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Chile

Located along the Pacific coast of South America, Chile is a long and narrow country that is bordered by Peru in the north, Bolivia and Argentina in the east, and the ocean in the west and the south. It's a huge country but 80% of the population is concentrated in the urban centres - it's a place of wide open spaces and huge contrasts: mountains and plains, tropical jungles and the Antarctic, Santiago and Easter Island.

The vast diversity of activities and scenery make Chile a very attractive place to visit.

Chileans tend to look outside their country when thinking about diving, towards Brazil or the Caribbean. However, with almost 2000 miles of coastline it is obvious that there are locations which are very good for diving. Probably the best zone extends from La Serena to Arica due to the more welcoming temperature of its waters.

Chilean beaches are easily accessible and generally have similar characteristics: a small sandy bay limited at both ends by cliffs. The bottom of the sea alternates between sand and large, round stones. There are abundant kelp forests and a prolific amount of fish. The offshore islands also offer great diving, especially Easter Island which is generally the location most divers enthuse about.
Locations for Diving:

Antofagasta: Santa Maria island.
Coquimbo: To the south of the Coquimbo wide beaches follow one after another: Penuelas, La Herradura, Totoralillo, Las Tacas, Morrillos, Las Mostazas, Guanaqueros and Lagunillas.
Tongoy
Los Vilos: tourist resort with beautiful scenery, islands and beaches.
Pichidangui
Los Molles: a great swimming beach and a favourite with Chilean divers.
Juan Fernandez Archipelago
Easter Island (Isla de Pascua)
Algarrobo
Quintay
Laguna Verde

There are diving operators at all of these resorts and there is also the possibility of making arrangements with local fishermen who may have compressors and equipment.

Other Tourist Activities:

Chile is a major tourist destination and the sightseeing and sporting activities are endless. It is likely that you would visit Chile for a combination of these, rather than as a purely diving destination.

Santiago
Santiago de Chile is a modern city and one of South America's most dynamic economies. There are many opportunities for shopping from the major stores to the street vendors. Less than an hour from the city centre are world-class ski resorts and white-water rafting opportunities, famous beaches and the colorful port city of Valparaíso.

La Serena
Important both historically and economically, the beachside city of La Serena is one of Chile's oldest cities. The region's silver, copper and agriculture were so important that the city had its own mint. Today, La Serena maintains a colonial air, although it is increasingly popular as a beach resort.

Parque Nacional Puyehue
Situated in the beautiful Lake District, this is Chile's most popular national park. Densely forested volcanic scenery will stun you. There are puma, rare miniature deer (Pudu) and many species of birds. Very popular with visitors who enjoy eco tourism.

Puerto Montt
A little slice of mid 19th century Germany transplanted to southern Chile. It features middle-European architecture, with shingles, high-pitched roofs and ornate balconies. The redwood cathedral on the city's plaza is the city's oldest building, dating from 1856. Puerto Montt is the transport hub and access point to the southern Lakes District, the island of Chiloé and Chilean Patagonia. The nearby port of Angelmó and the island of Tenglo offer a more relaxed atmosphere. Angelmó has an outstanding crafts market and fabulous seafood.

Valparaíso
Lying 74 miles northwest of Santiago, Valparaiso is Chile's principal port and second-largest city. Despite its size, it is Chile's most distinctive city and one of South America's most intriguing. Occupying a narrow strip of land between the waterfront and the nearby hills, it has a wonderfully convoluted centre with distinctive, sinuous cobbled streets. Surrounding the city are precipitous cliffs and hilltop suburbs which are accessed by funicular railways and stairway footpaths. There are excellent museums and a fabulous market.

Chiloé
Only 112miles long and 31 miles wide, the Isla Grande de Chiloé is a well-watered, densely forested island of undulating hills, with a temperate maritime climate. Its towns feature distinctive shingled houses and stilt homes, and its weather is known for rain and fog. When the mists clear however the view across to the snow capped volcanoes of the mainland is stunning.

Easter Island (Rapa Nui)
Lying 2294 miles west of the Chilean mainland, enigmatic Easter Island is the world's most remote inhabited island. More Polynesian than Chilean, the presence of Pacific Islanders in this isolated part of the world is as much a mystery as the origins of those famous stone heads. The island is mostly national park and one of the most unusual places in the world.

Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael
Despite the difficulty and expense of getting here, this glacier-filled, 4.2 million acre park in southern Patagonia is the most popular attraction in the Aisén region. It encompasses some of the most spectacular fjord and mountain scenery in the world and is dense with floating icebergs. The terrain is unforgiving but the rewards are many: in the water there are ducks, albatross, Magellanic penguins, otters, sea lions and elephant seals.s. Charter flights from Coyhaique land in the park, and there are a number of (costly) ferry services from Coyhaique and Puerto Chacabuco.

Parque Nacional Lauca
This world biosphere reserve near the Bolivian border, encompasses Lake Chungará, one of the highest lakes in the world, spectacularly situated at the foot of the dormant twin Pallachata volcanoes. It supports vicuña, condor and vizcacha, and Aymara alpaca and llama herders. There is extensive bird life along the shores of Lake Cotacotani, and panoramic views from the17,384 foot summit of Cerro Guane Guane.

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine
Near Chile's fragmented southern tip, this park is Chile's showpiece: a world biosphere reserve with all the diverse scenery of Alaska in only 444,600 acres. The Torres del Paine are spectacular granite pillars which soar almost vertically for more than 2000m (6560ft) above the Patagonian steppe. Cascading waterfalls, sprawling glaciers, dense forests, and the chance to see Patagonian guanaco make it a truly awesome experience.

Viña del Mar
Chile's premier beach resort is just a two-hour bus ride north of Santiago. It is a charming place with a turn of the century ambiance and white sand beaches.

Volcán Osorno
This perfect cone sits in the Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales, the first national park in Chile, and is surrounded by wonderful natural attractions. Beautiful Lago Todos Los Santos is the centrepiece of the park, looking over the thickly wooded vista to the volcano, and offering ferry trips to nearby lakeside villages. Osorno can be climbed and is a popular skiing spot.

Getting There:

There are no direct flights to Chile from the UK at present; you need to go via a European city or, most likely, Buenos Aires or Sao Paulo in Brazil. Cheapest fares start around £460. Expect to pay a premium over Christmas/New Year.

Varig (tel: 0845 6037601), Brazilian airline, often the cheapest, flies London (Heathrow)-Sao Paulo-Santiago, daily (17½ hrs, including 2 hrs stop in Sao Paulo)
Iberia (tel: 0845 6012854) flies London (Heathrow)-Madrid-Santiago daily (18-19 hrs, including 2hr stop in Madrid). Worth considering if you plan to get a LanChile Airpass (for internal flights) as this will be cheaper if bought in conjunction with an Iberia long haul ticket.
LanChile also flies from Madrid and Frankfurt, daily. Affiliated with Iberia and other European airlines.
British Airways (tel: 0845 7733377), flies London (Gatwick)-Buenos Aires-Santiago or London-Sao Paulo-Santiago, daily.
Air France (tel: 0845 0845222) flies London-Paris-Santiago (1hr to Paris, 1hr stopover in Paris, 14 ½hrs to Santiago) Also flies via Buenos Aires.
Lufthansa flies London-Frankfurt-Buenos Aires-Santiago.
American Airlines (020 8572 5555) flies London (Gatwick)-Dallas-Santiago - cheap but frequently long connection times
Delta flies London-Atlanta-Santiago
Journey Latin America (tel: 020 8747 3108) are a well regarded specialist offering some of the best flight deals from the UK.

For flights leaving Chile, there is an airport tax of USD18, or the equivalent in CHP (Chilean pesos). On domestic flights airport tax is usually included in the airline ticket.

Visas: Citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and most Western European countries do not require a visa. A 90-day entry permit, renewable for another 90 days, is received on entering the country.
Getting Around:

Travel within Chile is easy. Fast, punctual and comfortable buses travel the main highways, and flights are reasonably priced; the long-neglected railways have improved in recent years. Competition has lowered domestic air fares, and regional airlines and air taxis traverse the country's long extent. Air passes are particularly attractive. There is a tax of 5.00 payable on domestic flights.

When to Go

Chile's geographical variety can make a visit rewarding in any season. Santiago and Middle Chile are best in the spring (September through November) or during the autumn harvest (late February into April), while popular natural attractions like Parque Nacional del Paine in Magallanes and the lakes region are best in summer (December through March).

Currency
The unit of currency is the peso ($ or CHP), which exists in banknotes of $500, $1000, $2000, $5,000, $10,000, $20,000 and coins of $1, $5, $10, $50, $100 and $500. Personal checks are a respected and widely used document, which require identification to use them. Foreign cash is not generally used, except for hotels that may waive the value-added tax (IVA) if you are a foreigner, when you pay in US dollars or credit card. Credit cards are widely used and accepted. There is no surcharge for their use. The most commonly accepted cards are Visa, Master Card and Diners Club. In medium-sized to large businesses American Express is also honoured. Exchange rates for credit cards are very convenient. Some small, rural towns function solely on a cash-only basis, so have cash handy when going off the beaten path. In commercial and banking areas as well as petrol stations, it is easy to find Automatic Teller Machines (Redbanc network) honouring cards of all local banks as well as Cirrus cards, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Exchange rates are very good.


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Trip Report
Diving Chile by Crispin Coates





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