Djibouti
Perched strategically on the narrows that divide the Gulf of Aden from the Red Sea, Djibouti was for centuries a lonely, desolate land inhabited only by the nomadic tribespeople. Modern Djibouti was created by Europeans which is to this day ignored by the tribes that wander the deserts of this region.
Located just across the Red Sea from the Arabian Peninsula, Djibouti has been colonised by differing powers over the centuries, most recently by France. By the 1960s, a fierce independence movement was developing, and in 1977, the country gained full independence, though France still maintains a formidable military and economic presence. Ancient rivalries between the Afars and Issas have dominated the post-colonial period, with periods of armed conflict, though treaties in recent years have significantly reduced tensions.
Though Djibouti can seem an uninviting land to the visitor, the country has a number of interesting attractions. The city of Djibouti is not picturesque at first glance, but it does possess an intriguing combination of French, African, and Arab influences. Just outside the city lie a series of fine white sand beaches, and if you venture inland, you’ll see one of the world’s most forbidding landscapes, described by Evelyn Waugh as “a country of dust and boulders, utterly devoid of any sign of life.”
Around the country, the lakes (Lac Abbe, Lac Asal and lac Goubet) will supply some of the best memories of your stay in Djibouti, each for a different reason. Lac Abbé is the place to see flamingoes and pelicans feeding and taking wing by the thousands each dawn, an unforgettable sight. The lake can be reached only in a 4WD, and the town of Dikhil is a good starting point for your trip there. Lac Assal is one of the lowest points on the surface of the earth (more than 470ft below sea level!) and is surrounded by black lavafields and dormant volcanoes that may remind you of some of your more bizarre dreams. Lac Goubet, a saltwater lake, lies just across a stark volcanic formation from Lac Assal and is known to the locals as the ‘pit of demons’.
Offshore, the reefs are very good and there are a couple of liveaboards operating in the area. There are also shallow inlets where whale sharks annually visit for breeding.
Getting There:
Air France (AF) operates three flights a week from Paris to Djibouti, stopping en route in Jeddah. Djibouti-based Daallo Airlines (D3) operates flights to Paris and services to Ethiopia, Kenya, Saudi Arabia and Somalia. Other airlines offering services to Djibouti include Air Kenya, Air Tanzania, Djibouti Airlines, Ethiopian Airlines and Yemenia Yemen Airways.
Approximate flight times: From Djibouti to London is 10 hours (including stopovers).
International airports: Djibouti (JIB) is 5km (3 miles) south of the city. Taxis are available. Airport facilities include duty-free shops, restaurants, left luggage, tourist information, car hire (Maril), bureau de change and a craft shop.
Visas: Required by all except: transit passengers continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport. All visas cost the equivalent of €35.00. Application to: The Embassy in Paris . 10-day transit visas can be issued at the point of entry to visitors holding confirmed return air tickets. A fee will be charged. This facility is only available to nationals from countries where Djibouti has no diplomatic representation. Contact the Embassy in Paris for further information.
Application requirements: (a) Valid passport. (b) Two application forms completed in French. (c) Two passport-size photos. (d) The equivalent of €35.00 plus €5 to cover postage within France or €6 to cover postage from abroad; the amount should be sent in the form of a postal or money order, not a cheque. (e) A valid residence permit, if residing in a country which is not the citizen’s native home. (f) Return or onward ticket.
Climate:
Extremely hot and particulary arid between June and August when the dusty Khamsin blows from the desert. Between October and April it is slightly cooler with occasional light rain.
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The chance to see whale sharks and mantas in the Devil's Cauldron makes the travel difficulties sink into insignificance. Don't miss taking the chance to explore the inland volcanic sites and visit some local markets. Remember that most people are Moslems and dress appropriately.
Djibouti by Alison Wilcock & David Fenn
Hottest Rocks in the Red Sea
Giant Hunting in the Devil's Cauldron
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