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Dublin Bay, Republic of Ireland

 


Dublin Bay diving is probably underrated by the diving community in Ireland. While Dublin Bay can't match the 30-40m visibility and majestic underwater scenery found in the west of Ireland, it can provide some of the most challenging and enjoyable diving to be found anywhere in the country.

As the summer evenings stretch out, diving moves from solely a weekend activity to an all week one as local divers start to dive in the evenings. For students and workers alike skimming out over the waves of Dublin Bay before dropping overboard and drifting through "The Sound" is an ideal way to unwind and relax after a tough day. Evening dives are so enjoyable that the the Dublin University Club Website has begun to hold dawn dives as well, allowing divers to get their "diving fix" before facing into a hard day's study/work. All of the information here is courtesy of the University Branch.

The following charts and maps cover the area.

chart 1415 Dublin Bay
chart 1447 Dublin and Dun Laoghaire
chart 1468 Arklow to the Skerries Islands
Discovery Series Map 50

It is possible to launch at the following sites.

South County Dublin
Dun Laoghaire, Coal Harbour
North County Dublin
Howth
Rush (not accessible 1.5 hours before and after low water due to sand bars)
Skerries

Below are two maps showing the location of various sites.


Outlined below is a selection of the dive sites in and around Dublin Bay that DUSAC dives on a regular basis.

Sandycove
Grade: Trainee
Depth: 6 metres
When: High Water

This is a small beach where trainees are most likely to have their first taste of the open water. Visibility is usually poor, particularly near the shore, and there is very little marine life. However, Sandycove provides a sheltered beach that offers a safe 6m depth to perform training in. There is both shore and boat diving.
This site is bordered on one side by the forty-foot swimming area. It is very important that divers stay clear of here for two reasons.

Local by-laws prohibit scuba diving in the swimming area and injury can arise if a swimmer jumps in on top of a diver who is oblivious under the water.

The Outfall (The Lady's Stairs)
Grade: Trainee
Depth: 10 - 12m
When: Slack: 1.5 hrs before HW, approx 1 hour before LW

This site is just around the corner from Sandycove. It consists of a concrete walkway running out to sea from which you enter the water. From here, you head out to sea where depths of ten to twelve metres can be found. The site is quite exposed to currents so it should be dived on slack water only. Instead of the sandy bottom found in Sandycove, the outfall consists of broken rocks and crevices in which crabs and lobsters can sometimes be found. Some divers have even seen congers lurking amongst the rocks.

Scotsman's Bay
Grade: Trainee
Depth: 6 - 20m
When: Slack: 1.5 hrs before HW, approx 1.25 hours before LW

This bay is just outside the mouth of Dun Laoghaire harbour and is good for more advanced training. It is possible to find depths ranging from 6m to 20m at various stages of the tide. For the most part, the bottom here consists of sand and very little else. Flat fish are fairly common as are common Dublin Bay shrimp.

Muglins Grade: Ocean Diver
Depth: 10 - 25 metres
When: Slack: 1.5 hrs before HW, approx 1.25 hour before LW

The Muglins This is the most dived site in Dublin Bay. It is an oval rock (about 250m long) near the entrance to the bay, just to the north-east of Dalkey Island. As with most Dublin Bay sites this site is subject to strong currents and is best dived at slack. However, if you miss slack it can make for a nice drift dive if the current is not too strong. The rock drops to about 17-20m and is full of nooks and crannies that contain every form of life you can imagine - sponges, anemones, crabs and lobsters (by the dozen), conger eels, every kind of wrasse, bib, mackerel, pollack, ling and plenty of seals. On days when the visibility is good, you can find evidence of shipwrecks - anchors etc.

A rescue sausage is a must for all divers here, as well as at least one delayed surface marker buoy per buddy pair.

Dalkey Sound
Grade: Ocean Diver
Depth: 20 metres
When: Off slack/mid-tidal range

Dalkey Sound is the best choice when it is not possible to dive slack. The tide can fly down between Dalkey Island and the mainland giving a really exciting drift dive. The bottom ranges in depth from around ten metres to 20 metres and is mostly sand. Here are there you get the odd rocky outcrop. You'll see lots of crabs, sponges and in the summer the bottom is often covered in a seething mass of brittlestars.

Dalkey Island
Grade: Ocean Diver
Depth: 5 - 30 metres
When: Slack same as Muglins

The south end of the island is very similar to the Muglins but is often possible to dive when it is too rough to dive the Muglins. Boulders hiding crabs, lobsters and ling gradually give way to a sandy bottom close to thirty metres. You can find dogfish snoozing along the bottom here and it is a good spot for new sports diver to gradually increase their depth range.

Ireland's Eye
The DUSAC club hasn't dived here in many a year. You really need to be based out of Howth for this dive. The depth ranges from 6 to 20 metres. Might be worth a look.

Wreck dives There are a selection of the many wreck dives in Dublin Bay.

Bolivar
Grade: Ocean Diver
Depth: 10 metres
When Best dived: 1.5hr before high water, 1hr before low water

The Bolivar, a Norwegian motor vessel on its maiden voyage, sits on the sandy bottom of the Kish Bank in about 12m. It has broken open completely over the years and largely comprises of metal sheets and girders scattered around the sea bed. The shelter and the protection offered by the sheets means that the wreck is the home to many different fish in huge numbers: you will often see shoals of large pollack hovering off the wreck. As the wreck covers and uncovers with the shifting sands, various sections may be visible at different times. Usually ribs stick out of the sand and congers inhabit the holes surrounding them. It is also possible to swim inside one end of the engine room and out the other side.

One point to note on this wreck is due to its scattered nature and lack of distinguishing features it is very difficult to orient yourself and as such find the shot at the end of the dive. Either use a distance line to find your way back to the shot or else be sure to have, and be able to deploy, a delay SMB. Because the wreck is on such a shallow bank it is very susceptible to swells and the currents can be quite strong around it.

At night, conger eels come out all around the wreck. Jump in if that's your cup of tea!

RMS Leinster
Grade: Sports Diver
Depth: 33 metres
When: Same as Bolivar

The Leinster is a large late-Victorian mail and passenger ship lying about 12 miles from shore (40 minutes to over an hour, depending on the weather) with her bow pointing south. The bow stands proud of the seabed, a little separate from the main part of the wreck. The body of the wreck is heavily damaged, but still largely intact, though gradually disappearing under the sands. There is plenty of marine life to see - shoals of fish, congers, etc.

The wreck is subject to strong tidal currents outside of slack water, so it's best dived on a neap tide. Potential poor visibility (especially on spring tides) and the large size of the wreck can be disorienting, so a distance line may be useful. A further consideration is that it lies in the path of the HSS ferry.

Permission to dive the wreck should be obtained from the owner, Desmond Brannigan, who can be contacted via the Irish Underwater Council.

Historical notes
The Leinster was built by Cammel Laird Bros. of Birkenhead, in 1897 for the City of Dublin Steam Packet Company at a cost of 95,000. She was one of a quartet of fast steamships named after the four provinces of Ireland, and was used to carry mail and passengers between Britain and Ireland. She grossed 2,646 tons and measured 115m x 23m x 13m. Her twin screws were powered by an 8 cylinder steam engine, and she was capable of 24 knots.

On her final voyage, The Leinster was travelling from Holyhead from Dun Laoghaire just three weeks before the end of the First World War. She was carrying some 800 passengers, including many soldiers, and crew. When a little beyond the Kish Bank, she was hit by two torpedoes fired by the U-boat UB-123. The first torpedo struck in the post room, killing most of the postal workers at work sorting the mail. The second torpedo hit in the engine room amidships, and the Leinster then sank rapidly. Although most passengers escaped from the wreck, many drowned whilst waiting to be rescued. In all, an estimated 527 lives were lost.

SS Guide Me II
Grade: Experienced Sports Diver
Depth: 33 - 38 metres
When: 1.5 hrs before HW, 1 hour before LW

For sports divers, the Guide Me is the Holy Grail. This is one of the best, most challenging and most enjoyable wreck dives Sports divers can do in Dublin Bay. While there should be little difference in diving the Leinster, which lies in a similar depth, this is not the case. Divers joke that the Guide Me is in some sort of hole as it's so dark down there.

The Guide Me II lies about 1.5 miles south-east of the Muglins (it takes 20 - 30 minutes to reach it from Dun Laoghaire). The wreck is complete and is in great condition. Dropping onto the upper deck, you can head off along the railings and the wreck is small enough that you can circumnavigate the whole wreck along the railings to safely arrive back to the shot line without clocking up huge amounts of deco. A really good torch is must for this dive. The Guide Me is full of marine life - there are often shoals of whiting, bib etc, hovering around the wheelhouse. You'll also find plenty of lobsters, and a lot congers, especially in the scour pit under the starboard bow.

Historical notes

The Guide Me II was built in Aberdeen in 1907 as a Peterhead F.V. Drifter (i.e. a drift-net fishing boat) in 1907 by Hall, Russell & Co. She grossed 100 tons and was approximately 26m long and 5.6m wide. In March 1915, she was hired by the Admiralty in and converted into an anti-submarine coastal gunboat, with the addition of a six-pound gun. She sank while on patrol after collision with, depending on reports, either either an unnamed vessel, or the nearby Muglins rock. The site of impact is clearly visible as a large hole on the starboard side. The Guide Me was rediscovered in 1990 by Ivan Tunsted. He also raised the gun, which is now in the Maritime Museum in Dun Laoghaire.

HMS Vanguard

Grade: Dive Leader
Depth: 50 metres
When: 1.5 hrs before HW, 1 hour before LW

The Vanguard is a very rare and special shipwreck. She is a very intact mid-Victorian iron battleship lying within the depth range for experienced air divers, and there cannot be many such shipwrecks in the world. She lies about 14 nautical miles out to sea off Bray Head, so is not often dived, contributing to the mystique surrounding her.

Historical Notes
HMS Vanguard was an ironclad battleship that served as the guard ship for Kingstown (modern Dun Laoghaire). She was built by Cammell-Lairds at Birkenhead, and launched on January 3rd 1870, and was the 7th British Royal Navy ship named 'Vanguard'.

The Vanguard was one of a group of four sister ships in the 'Audacious' class, the others being the Audacious, the Invincible and the Iron Duke. These ships were 'central battery' ironclads, meaning that their main guns were carried in an armoured central gun battery in the middle of the ship (the dark rectangular structure on the upper and main decks, beneath the main mast in the above photo). Earlier ships, such as the Warrior, carried their guns on gun decks running the length of the ship for delivering a 'broadside' of gunfire. The central battery design was an improvement as it placed the guns in the most stable part of the ship, allowed them fire forward and aft and meant that the heavy armour plating could be concentrated where needed. The rotating gun turrets, which would later be used on all battleships, were then still too heavy and would have been impractical on a masted vessel such as the Vanguard.

The Vanguard grossed 6,010 tons, and was 341 feet long. She was equipped with two engines as well as three masts as the navy was not yet building exclusively steam-powered battleships. Her engines could produce 4,830 horsepower giving a top speed of around 13 knots. Her hull was built of iron with teak on the inside for reinforcement and to reduce shrapnel under incoming fire. Her main armament was ten 12-ton 9-inch muzzle-loaded guns housed on the upper and main decks in the central battery. She also carried four smaller 64-pounder 6-inch 'chaser' guns, two at the bow and two at the stern on the upper deck, and six 20-pounder guns. Her full crew was 450 men.

Information courtesy of Robert Cordery, Website

The Vanguard sank on September 1st 1875. She was travelling in convoy with three other ironclads from Kingstown (Dun Laoghaire) to Queenstown (Cobh), Co. Cork on the final leg of a flag-flying tour of Irish ports. The other ships in the convoy were the Warrior, now restored as a museum in Portsmouth, the Hector and the Iron Duke, a sister ship of the Vanguard.

Shortly after leaving port, the convoy ran into heavy fog off the Kish lightship. Through the fog, the Vanguard spotted a sailing ship ahead and turned to port to avoid collision. Instead, she found herself in the path of the Iron Duke, which was drifting off her intended position and had no working forhorn. The Iron Duke was equipped, as warships then were, with an underwater ram at the bow for holing other ships. When she collided with the Vanguard, her ram tore a hole in the Vanguard's port side near the engines. With water rushing in and the steam-operated pumps out of action once the engines had stopped, the Vanguard sank in seventy minutes. Lifeboats were deployed and all three-hundred and sixty crew aboard were saved, the only casualty being the Captain's dog. The navy later tried to salvage the wreck but this proved impossible, and the ship was left for a hundred years.

Captain Richard Dawkins was court-martialled and never regained command of a ship. The admiralty claimed that he had failed to saved his ship, but many thought that the admirals lacked understanding of modern iron ships, so saw Captain Dawkins' treatment as unfair.

Diving the Vanguard
The Vanguard was rediscovered in 1985. She lies on a sandy seabed, tilted over towards her starboard side. This is the shallow side of the wreck, dropping to around 45m - the port side drops to over 50m. Due to her solid construction, and her hull being made of iron rather than steel, she remains very intact and is still very recognisably a ship. The height of the wreck from the seabed on the port side to the top of the gun battery is around 20m, and the size of the ship means that it is only possible to see a section of it on each dive.

From a few dives on the starboard side and the upper deck, it's striking just how well preserved the hull is. It looms overhead as you make your way along the seabed on the starboard side. Coming up onto the deck, the octagonal upper deck of the central gun battery is now beginning to collapse, but the huge 9-inch guns remain in place and can be seen through holes in the battery roof. The main mast, which stood clear of the surface after the sinking, has fallen over and lies across the central battery and over the starboard side. The bridge once stood aft of the central battery, above the upper deck, but is now gone. There is a large crack in the ship immediately aft of the central battery, where you can drop to the level of the main deck and see one of the ship's wheels. Back on the upper deck, and moving towards the bow along the port gunwale, you come across the main anchor and one of the small deck guns. The remains of the forward mast are a little further along.

Other divers have described the unusual twin-screwed propellers, and the captain's cabin, now open to the sea at the stern of the ship. The bulkheads in the officers' quarters, in the stern half of the main deck, have apparently fallen away, although the main deck is said to be too dangerous to explore due to collapse.

On a note of caution, while visibility in the Irish Sea off Dublin has been improving year on year, the Vanguard can still be a very dark and challenging dive. With many open hatches and holes, it is possible to find yourself inside unintentionally. The Vanguard is also a long way out to sea, so diving should only be attempted when the weather forecast is good. Note also that the Vanguard, as with all ships over a hundred years old, is protected under the National Monument Act so you need a license from the National Monuments Service to dive it. The Vanguard, though, is a superb dive and well worth the effort.

The Marley
Grade: Sports Diver
Depth: 24 - 28 metres
When: 1 - 1.5 hrs before HW/ LW

Approximately 1 mile off the Bailey Lighthouse in Howth, this dive can be approached from Dun Laoighre, heading out towards and past Howth Head. It is about 7.25 miles out of Dun Laoghaire. The ship was enroute from Liverpool to Dublin when it sunk in a storm 2 miles east of the lightship in about 20m of water on 16 December. It was captained by Captain Hamilton. 15 lives were lost when the ship sank. The ship's cargo was coal. There is lots of life on the wreck.

HMS Deliverer
Grade: Sports Diver
Depth: 23 metres
When: 1 - 1.5 hrs before HW/ LW

The Deliverer was sunk by a submarine while on service for the UK Admiralty on November 3rd, 1917. (WW1). She was located accurately (supposedly) in 1996 using the DECCA method. The vertical height of the wreck is 4-5 metres in a general depth of 22-24 metres, making her suitable for sports divers. Apparently she covers and uncovers with the shifting of the sandy bottom on which she lies. The wreck lies northwest/southeast, with the bows to the north west. She lies in a slight scour at an angle of 30° to the starboard side. The wreck was severed by an explosion at the bridge, and the forward hold are and bow lie approximately 10 metres away from the main section of the wreck.

The Deliverer is quite hard to find because it is so small. Also extreme care must be taken when diving it as the Jonathan Swift ferry can pass overhead. One recommendation would be to dive it only after you have seen the ferry depart.

Howth Head and beyond
Finally, here are some sites and wrecks from Howth Head and northwards along the coast including Lambay island.

Members of local clubs have spoken of dives near the Skerries area, including Rockabill lighthouse, that (in their opinion) surpass anything described above. A good scenic dive can occur nearly anywhere and there are so many possibilities, no attempt has been made to try and describe them here. If you want to find some new scenic dives, the best way is to look at the charts of the area, then take a boat out and have a dive. One important point to note is that Lambay Island is a bird sanctuary protected under Irish and International law. Due to this, it is illegal to land on the island at any time, except in case of emergency.

RMS Tayleur
Grade: Novice
Depth: 15 -18 metres
When: not tidal

The Tayleur was a full rigged clipper with an iron hull. It was driven ashore and sank off Lambay Island in 1854.The wreck is in one piece, apart from being flattened and dismasted. The wreck lies 30m off the South-East corner of Lambay Island in a small indentation. It used to be possible to get into the galley where cups and plates can be seen - mostly broken. Some of these can still be seen on the main part of the wreck. Hold contains roof slates and tombstones (not engraved). Even without a GPS, this wreck is very easy to find. Head to the east side of Lambay Island where the eastern most point is called the Nose. Come south and west of this point and you will see a small indentation with broken boulders at the western most end. Drop your divers into this indentation where they should head south-east. They will then come across the wreck. It is very difficult to pick the wreck up on the depth sounder as it is flat and is mostly buried in the bottom. Dive at any state of the tide. Divers have told of finding crystal brandy decanters and similar items on the wreck. However, as permission to dive must be obtained from Duchas as the wreck falls under the 100 year rule, any items found should be left in place. For even more information, there was an article on this wreck in the Summer 2003 edition of SubSea magazine, or check out wikipedia.

SS Shamrock II
Grade: Novice
Depth: 16 metres
When: not tidal

The Shamrock was an iron-hulled cargo steamer that sank off Lambay in May 1918. The wreck lies to the South-West of Carrickdorish Rocks. All that remains of her is the boilers, a cabin structure, decking plates and some ribs. Some 4" shells can still be found. Dive at any state of the tide. Built in 1879 in Scotland by Inglis & Co. for Lairds, she measured 70.46 x 9.52 x 4.69m. and grossed 815 tons. She was powered by a 2 cylinder compound steam engine which generated 274 h.p. Was part of the Dublin to Glasgow service and ran aground on her way into Dublin. Her cargo was munitions and horses. The horses swam ashore, and the thirty people aboard were rescued. Look inshore from the Carrickdorish Rocks and just east and you should see what looks like a rough landing place, as if someone has just poured concrete from the grass down to the rocks. The wreckage, which is pretty broken up is just out from it in about 10m. Pretty much out of the tide.

Polewell
Grade: Dive Leader
Depth: 36 metres
When: Dive at high slack only

Lies 3 miles North-East of Lambay Island. Lying upright but starting to break-up. Dive at slack high only. Occasionally buoyed. Warning!! Lots of nets snagged on the wreck. Note, this wreck is owned by Nautilus Sub-Aqua Club and you must ask permission to dive it. Permission is not usually granted as they feel that other divers keep taking items from the wreck. Was bound France from Troon with coal when she was torpedoed by U-96. The wreck is charted but the position is inaccurate.

Queen Victoria
Grade: Ocean Diver
Depth: 20 metres
When: 2 hrs after HW only

This ship was built by Wilson of Glascow to a very high specification and gave its owners The City Of Dublin Steam Packet Company excellent service. When the Queen Victoria was returning from Liverpool with some general cargo and passengers she miscalculated in a snowstorm and struck Howth Head in the middle of the night. After backing off, she struck again under the Bailey Lighthouse and went down just 100 yds south of the lighthouse. Over 80 people were lost and a subsequent enquiry blamed the captain, first mate and those responsible for the lighthouse. Attempts to raise the vessel failed and she was broken open and salvaged in-situ. The wreck is protected by the National Monuments Act (Historic Wreck) and permission is needed to dive on it. The wreck lies in 20 metress and the remains consist of boilers and engine machinery, paddle wheels, anchors and the hull to just above the bilges. There is extensive shellfish life in the wreck but, due to it's proximity to a sewage outfall, the dive can be quite 'mucky' except in very suitable conditions. The currents here are very strong and go slack 2hrs after high water only. Dived occasionally by local clubs.

SS Strathray
Grade: Novice
Depth: 20 metres
When: see admiralty chart

The SS Strathray was an iron-hulled steamer that struck rocks off Lambay in 1885. It lies in 20 metres at North-East end of Lambay Island and the site is marked by two split rocks. There is a large ring on the stern rail. Another section of wreck lies 100yds to the East. The Strathray was built in 1883 by Scott & Co., Bowling, and grossed 270 tons and measured 42.67 x 6.73 x 3.20m. She was powered by a 2 cylinder compound steam engine which generated 55h.p. She was owned by J. Hay & Sons of Glasgow, and was under charter to Tedcastles to deliver coal to Dublin from Glasgow. In thick fog she struck the rocks and the 15 crew escaped without injury. The Strathray is pretty broken up, just boilers and other bits and bobs. She is off the western corner of the northern-most promentory midway along the north coast of the island. Just drop in to one side or the other of that point so you know which way to go and work your way along the base of the rocks and you can't miss it. When you do it with a running tide and crappy vis it can be quite exciting.

Note: Permission to dive must be obtained from Duchas.

Safety
You need the usual boat safety equipment: O2, 1st Aid Kit, flares, VHF, GPS. Also make note of the following:

Dublin Coastguard
VHF Channels 83, 16, 10, DSC 70
Dun Laoghaire Marina
VHF Channel 67
Dun Laoghaire Harbour
VHF Channel 10
Dublin Port
VHF Channel 12
Emergency services
112 (or 999) on land
Recompression chambers
Dublin (private)
Galway, 091 524222
Weather
Weather Dial 1550 123 855
RTE Radio1 (88-89fm) at 0602, 1253, 1655, 2355
VHF 0103, 0403, 0703, 1003, 1303, 1603, 1903, 2203
Warnings on VHF (channel 16) 0033, 0633, 1233, 1833

Local Facilities
Flagship scuba, the Great Outdoors and First Stage Diving all do air fills with only First Stage currently doing nitrox fills (as of May 2006).

More Information:

Dublin University Sub Aqua Club:
Website


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