Safaga and El Quesir, Egypt
As more and more divers discover the diving areas of northern Egypt, attention has begun to turn to the dive sites of southern Egypt. This move has speeded up with the opening of the airport at Marsa Alam which saves a lengthy transfer from Hurghada. Some liveaboards are moving to base themselves here in order to give quicker access to the stunning reefs just offshore. Southern Egypt offers warm, clear waters and lush coral gardens without a hint of pollution, along hundreds of kilometres of almost uninhabited coastline. At the moment - development moves fast in this part of the world!
With the Eastern Desert to the west, this rugged, arid region is one of the most isolated areas in Egypt, where the only sign of human habitation is often a solitary army post hundreds of kilometers from the nearest town. Although the teeming Nile valley lies only a couple of hours away from the coast by road, this region can sometimes feel like the land that time forgot, its small towns seemingly unchanged since medieval times.
El Quesir:
This is a relaxing resort with plenty of great diving close by. In addition to boat diving, excellent shore diving is possible north and south of this little town. This up and coming resort is accessible from both Hurghada and Marsa Alam airports and offers a unique range of diving from one base. The region offers varied topography, abundant marine life and the advantage of less crowded sites. There is an excellent reef right off the beach giving you easy access to some wonderful dives. With a purpose built pier and cart for your equipment, it is just a case of jumping in.
Some dive shops offer unlimited shore diving from the beach right outside their door.
There are a few live-aboard excursions leaving from El Quseir that head towards the dive sites off Marsa Alam: Daedalus Reef, Elphinestone and the Brothers Islands - world famous for hammerheads and other large marine life. At El Quesir you are likely to encounter turtles as well as a multitude of both small and large reef occupants including napoleon wrasse. With some luck, you can explore black tipped reef sharks, which are on patrol within a safe distance. There are around 20 dive sites within easy reach of the centre including Sharm Fugani, Ras Mahaleg and Erg Malek. You’ll enjoy exploring coral covered pinnacles on the sandy slopes as well as navigating and exploring the labyrinth of coral gardens. There is a wide variety of fish life to be seen: crocodile fish, moray eels, sea snakes, lionfish, porcupine fish and blue spotted stingrays. You may even find the elusive
white tip or guitar sharks taking cover.
El Quesir is a good choice for a holiday if you are in company with non divers - especially if they like relaxing in the sun or snorkelling. The proximity to coral just off the beach means that dives can be quickly accomplished leaving you time to enjoy with your companions.
The resort also gives easy access to some fascinating historical sites like wadi Hammamet and Bir Umm Fawakhir, not to mention Luxor and the Nile Valley. There is plenty to do to keep you enjoyably occupied and a decent range of hotels and restaurants.
Safaga:
Safaga Bay is one of the top kite surfing and wind surfing destinations in Egypt. The large gulf of incredibly transparent water is well protected by Safaga Island and the permanent winds and sandy beaches, generally devoid of fringing reefs, make the shores a perfect start for any watersport.
The dive sites around Safaga have until recently only been accessible by liveaboard as it is well out of the range of day boats from Hurghada. This has kept the reefs incredibly well preserved with prolific fish life. Although the numbers of sites are relatively small, they offer a nice range for both the beginner and experienced diver, with a rich and well-preserved underwater environment. Highlights are the coral garden at Sha'ab Saiman, the great drop-offs at Panorama Reef and the possibility of encounters with big game (sharks and mantas) at Abu Qifan. Daily boat, half day trips and diving courses including nitrox are offered in the majority of the few diving centres in Safaga. There is also excellent shore diving.
In the past few years Safaga has become a favorite of golfers, with the opening of the outstanding Cascades Golf Resort and Country Club. Situated in the panoramic peninsula of Abu Soma at the north end of the bay, designed by pro Gary Player, this golf course has an extraordinary setting on the edge of the Red Sea. One hole is actually jutting out into the sea.
Safaga also gives access to the Nile Valley and Luxor with all its tombs and temples - it can easily be combined with a Nile Cruise. Nearby you can visit the ruins at Mons Claudianus. This fascinating archaeological site dates back to 30 BC to 641 AD, when Egypt was a province of the Roman Empire. Situated about an hour from Safaga on the road to the Nile. Mons Claudianus was a granite-mining town and is the largest and best-preserved Roman site in the Eastern Desert. No holiday in the Red Sea is complete without a desert safari. The Eastern Desert with its expanse of sand, rocks and mountains seems empty but actually pulsates with life. Professional guides can take you to explore wadis, dunes, mountains and secluded oasis, with the opportunity to meet the Bedouin.
Safaga isn't really a party town. Yet there are a couple of bars and pubs worth a visit if you go scanning the souk in the late afternoon. The locals mingle every Friday at the Divers' Pub, in downtown Safaga. Chilled beers and good music match the divers' and surfers' stories of the day. The bar of the Holiday Inn is also a favourite place to watch the sun go down.
Nearby Dive Sites:
Ras Abu Soma ( 45 minutes)
This reef is 2 km long and gently slopes down directly from the coast. You can dive in a variety of spots and sometimes there is enough current to drift.
Wreck of the Salem Express (30 minutes):
On December 15th 1991 one of the greatest maritime disasters of recent times occurred a few miles from the Port of Safaga on Hyndman Reef. The 100m long passenger ferry, Salem Express was returning with her decks crowded with pilgrims from Mecca. Official numbers quote 690 passengers but there are reports that as many as 1600 people were on board. The ship struck the reef, ripping a great hole in the forward section of the hull. The sudden in rush of water caused the stern doors to burst open allowing more water to enter the already stricken ship. Within 10 minutes she rolled over onto her starboard side and sank in 30 mtrs of water. Only 180 survived.
The wreck lies on her starboard side at the base of the reef, with the deepest part in 30m, her port side in only 10m. Both props can be seen, the deeper being covered in a carpet of soft corals, a stark contrast to the port propeller. She is virtually intact and even her lifeboats still sit upright on the seabed. There are two large funnels embossed with the letter S and Laurel leaves on both sides.
Shaab Saiman ( 55 minutes )
The reef is right up against the shore and is absolutely beautiful, however in winter a strong wind makes diving mostly impossible. As a result the reef is very well preserved. In the spring time Mantas often gather here.
Tobya Arba – 7 Pillars ( 40 minutes )
As the name suggests 7 pillars come up from a depth of 10 to 12 metres rising up almost to the surface. They are surrounded by small coral heads where crocodile fish and large Black spotted puffer fish lay camouflaged in the sand. Overhanging Sea Fans, Lizard fish, Glass fish, a colony of several Lion fishes and a resident Humphead Wrasse ( Napoleon fish ) make this an exceptional dive.
Tobya Kebir ( 30 minutes )
Tobya Kebir is an ideal dive site for all levels of divers.
Tobya Soraya ( 30 minutes )
A colourful reef with urgs of different sizes. Good variety of sea life. Depths vary between 11 and 15 metres. There is a small cave. Night dives are an exceptional experience here.
Gamul Soraya ( 25 minutes )
Gamul Soraya is a small coral urg and the outer side is a great dive for seeing many species of fish. Also an excellent night dive.
Gamul Kebir ( 20 minutes )
In the north of this reef there are urgs with beautiful soft corals. As you often see a school of barracuda here it is also often called “Barracuda House”. Sometimes you will also find stingrays and nurse sharks. In the winter time the strong wind mostly makes diving impossible.
Middle Reef ( Umm Hal Hal ) ( 80 minutes )
This is a very rarely chosen dive site in the south of Safaga. On its north side is a drop off with nice coral formations. Tuna and groups of barracudas are often seen there.
Shaab Quais ( 85 minutes )
Two small coral urgs with many soft corals, barracudas and humphead wrasses ( Napoleon fishes). Often possible to dive this as a drift due to morning current. There is a 40m drop off nearby which offers an alternate dive.
Abu Kafan ( 90 minutes )
Abu Kafan is a lovely reef. You can dive both north and south. In the north a interesting plateau has black corals at the edge of the drop off, a resident school of barracuda barracuda, turtles and sometimes grey sharks. The southern part has drop offs at 30m and a good chance to see sharks and mantas.
Shaab Sheer ( 70 minutes )
The dive sites lie at the east and west side of this 2 km long reef where wonderful coral gardens and caves can be admired. The northern part is ideal for drift dives.
Shaab Claude ( 75 minutes )
This small reef close to Shaab Sheer with a maximum depth of 20 metres has a good community of Red Sea Banner fishes and Masked Butterfly fishes. Moray eels and sometimes Eagle rays are seen there. A big coral urg rising up from 17m to 6m is decorated with beautiful soft corals.
Panorama Reef ( 70 minutes )
Panorama Reef is one of the biggest and well-known reefs in Safaga. Usually you dive at the south point with its exceptional plateau going down to 35 metres. You can see Eagle rays, Tuna fish and sometimes White tip sharks. There is a wonderful anemone field sloping down from the surface to 15 metres which is home to many clown fish. This area is ideal for drift dives.
Tobya Hamra ( 40 minutes )
Beautiful coral gardens gave this place its name which means “Coral Garden”. An excellent site for photographers, the depth range is 5m to 30m.
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Much quieter than Hurghada these resorts offer excellent, unspoiled diving just offshore as well as access to Egypt's top historic sites. Safaga is not the most scenic resort but closer examination shows a good atmosphere and great diving.
Safaga Special by Alison Boler
Safaga Craic by Frank D'Esaille
Danke Schon: Safaga
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