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Fiji
It's a job to know where to start! More then anything else, Fiji is an exotic destination. The 333 islands that make up this nation can sizzle with excitement or murmur with the quiet calm of pristine nature. Where else can you swim with huge, harmless manta rays congregating by the shore, snorkel over giant rainbow gardens of soft coral, or scuba dive the White Wall and famous Astrolabe Reef? Fiji is where the Cloud Breaker, the incredible six-metre wave found offshore at Tavarua, draws surfers from around the world. It is also where you can float in the calm, quiet waters of a turquoise lagoon at sunset or walk alone through lush rainforest.
It is where the sun shines almost every day and when it does rain, people rush outside for a rain bath. It’s an island where rushing is rude and people wear flowers tucked in their hair, not to impress visitors, but because they like to.
The Fiji archipelago is at the cross roads of the South Pacific. In the days of sailing ships it was known as The Cannibal Isles and carefully avoided by mariners because of its fierce warriors and treacherous waters. However, in the age of jumbo jets and global travel. Fiji has become the central hub of the exotic South Pacific. More than 85 flights land at Nadi on the main island of Viti levu every week. From there it is only a quick seven minute hop to one of the offshore island resorts, or less than an hour of flying time to Vanua Levu or Taveuni, the second and third largest islands, where then outside world is quickly left behind
Fiji, "the Soft Coral Capital of the World", is rated as one of the top 10 dive destinations in the world. It is well deserved.
Fiji’s vast, varied and colourful underwater playgrounds boast something spectacular for divers at every skill level… breathtaking hard and soft corals, wall dives, caves, grottos and shipwrecks. Fiji is truly a diver’s paradise where the daily menu is so diversified that it is sometimes difficult to believe you are in the same country. According to Jean-Michel Cousteau… ‘The unparalleled range of quality dive sites and sheer diversity of life of Fijian reefs is over whelming.”
There are more than 50 dive operators and about six liveaboards currently serving Fiji. Liveaboards ply the bommies and offshore sites that see little diving pressure.
Climate
Fiji sits far enough from the equator to have relatively mild summer heat but close enough to have warm balmy winters too! The ‘dry’ season in Fiji is May to October, ‘wet’ season is November to April. But Fiji’s weather varies greatly geographically. The leeward (west) sides of the major high islands including Viti Levu and Vanua Levu are protected from the prevailing south east trade winds and receive less rainfall than the windward sides of the islands.
June through October is perhaps the best time to visit--it's drier, cooler and far less humid than the rest of the year. It's also the time when underwater visibility is at its peak. Air temperatures range from 68°F to 73°F and water temps can drop to 75°F. If you're prone to cold, you'll need at least a 3mm wetsuit; some divers even wear 5 to 6 mm suits with hoods. On the other hand, December through March is the rainy season, when temperatures range from 73°F to 86°F, and water temps can climb into the low 80°Fs.
There are too many fantastic dive sites in this huge nation to list. You must do your research, plan to stay awhile – even revisit. Liveaboards may give you the most compressed diving, but then you’d miss the experience of the islands.
The best diving is between April and October but from June to August the water cools significantly and full 3mm wetsuits are recommended. Costs of dives vary from F$65 to F$130.
Near Savu Savu experienced and first timers can dive from Jean Michel Cousteau Resort. The beach slopes to the ocean floor with scattered coral heads and a sandy bottom. There's Mystery Reef with large, hard corals sloping to a garden of soft corals - lots of brommies (coral heads). On the outside reefs you'll find huge sea fans and soft, coral gardens.
At Fan Fair there are coral crommies covered with sea fans and swim-throughs with marine life hiding in nooks and crannies. Dream House has big, friendly fish including batfish schools. Big Blue is a drop-off with gigantic gorgonians covered in feather stars.
On the north side of Vanua Levu, just 30 minutes from the Great Sea Reef, is the third largest barrier reef in the world. Fish Wall is the home to a myriad of pelagics and sharks, while from June to December the area is host to large numbers of manta rays.
The nearby island of Taveuni is on the Somosomo Strait and is the soft coral capital of the world. You will find there are currents as this is what produces soft coral. Rainbow Reef is a very pretty garden.
The Great White Wall is legendary - one of the most sought after dives on earth. On out-going tides The Zoo has barracuda, reef sharks and eagle and manta rays.
Annie's Brommie is a beautiful coral head and nearby The Corner has an abundance of fish. Taveuni Island Resort is a great place to stay with its own 40ft catamaran that takes guests daily for two relaxed dives separated by a beach lunch and snorkelling.
Vatulele has a drift dive on The Blue Wall, multi-coloured hard coral at The Aquarium and Outer Limits is another wall with a ledge that if often home to stingrays. Nearby Beqa Lagoon has 17 miles of mazes, tunnels and wonder.
In the Mamanucas and Yasawas there's diving for all tastes. On the Malolo Barrier Reef is the world famous Supermarket (shark encounters), spectacular Gotham City (named after the resident batfish) which is home to stahorn and elkhorn coral and curious moray eels. Big W offers big fish action with mantas and sharks.
Here are some of the most famous dive sites of Fiji:
GREAT WHITE WALL AT SOMOSOMO STRAIT. Sites in the Somosomo Strait are some of the finest soft coral diving in the Pacific, accessible from both Vanua Levu and Taveuni Island. White soft corals cover the wall from 75 to 220 feet. DEPTH: 40 to 130 feet. CURRENT: Moderate to strong.
2) SIDE STREETS AND FANTASY AT BEQA LAGOON. Coral bommies and overhangs laced with tunnels and caves characterize these dives in this southern lagoon off Viti Levu. You'll find huge sea fans and feather stars as well as lionfish, batfish and schooling horseye jacks. DEPTH: 20 to 60 feet. CURRENT: Light.
3) GREAT ASTROLABE REEF AT KADAVU. Along Kadavu's northern rim, the Astrolabe barrier reef has several sites. Reefs, large walls and ravines, are populated with tiera batfish, Maori wrasse, flame hawkfish, citrus gobies, canary blennies and the occasional rainbow runner, yellowfin tuna and wahoo. DEPTH: 30 to 90 feet. CURRENT: Light.
4) MAGIC MOUNTAIN OFF NAMENA. Dendronephthya soft corals flank this pinnacle, 80 feet in diameter, that ascends to within 10 feet of the surface. Jacks preying on bait clusters are a common sight. LOCATION: Outer islands of Namena. DEPTH: 10 to 120 feet. CURRENT: Light.
5) E-6 IN THE LOMAIVITIS BETWEEN VITI LEVU AND VANUA LEVU. A favorite of live-aboards, this pinnacle, complete with its own cave swim-through, rises from 3,000 feet. It's a magnet for sea life, including sharks, rays and other pelagics, and a must-dive for underwater photographers for whom the site is named. DEPTH: 30 to 130 feet. CURRENT: Light.
6) THE W AND 7) THE PINNACLE IN THE MAMANUCA ISLANDS. Named for their shapes under water, the W and Pinnacle are just a 30-minute boat ride from resorts in this 11-island group. Chevron barracuda schools, whitetip sharks and even mantas are found on the periphery, while porcelain crabs and nubibranchs hide in the table coral's recesses. DEPTH: 40 to 100 feet. CURRENT: Light.
Getting There:
The main airline serving Fiji is Air New Zealand, which has connections from Heathrow via Los Angeles. You can also connect at California's largest city from British Airways or Virgin Atlantic to Air Pacific. Fiji is also allowed as a stopover on round-the-world tickets, or on journeys between the UK and Australasia via the Pacific.
You can book direct but it is likely to work out cheaper - and a lot easier - to contact a specialist such as talpacific (020-8288 8400; TalPacific which can book "land only" arrangements (accommodation, transfers, car hire, cruises, excursions etc) or will package these elements up with flights.
You can also reach Fiji on no-frills flights operated from Australia by Virgin Blue and from New Zealand on Pacific Blue, though this is likely to work out as a more expensive option. One more possibility is Korean Airlines, which can get you to Fiji en route to or from New Zealand via the Far East.
Flying between islands is quick, easy, fun (because most of it is in very small aircraft) and relatively cheap; £40 will take you from Suva's airport at Nausori, the air hub for the whole republic 23km north-east of the capital, to most other islands. Domestic flights are on Air Pacific (0845 774 7767; Air Pacific, Air Fiji (00 679 3313 666; Air Fiji, which offers a four-flight airpass from FJ$517 (£172), and Sun Air (00 679 6723 555; Sun Air.
Travelling by ferry tends to be a lot cheaper - and a lot more fun. Ferry routes connect most major coastal areas of Viti Levu and Vanua Levu with the other major islands.
Worldwise:
Fijians are a modest people, and outside the resorts, you should avoid wearing anything that shows too much leg. When visiting a village or attending a church service, women must wear long pants and men are often encouraged to follow suit. If you are visiting the out islands, please take the time to find out and then observe the local customs and procedures. Your experience will be the richer for it. Pack a DSMB in your dive bag - this is current country with serious tidal changes. Some of the currents are raging. Be honest about your dive experience. A dive light is a must to fully appreciate the kaleidoscope of soft corals. Oddly enough for people once feared as fierce cannibals, Fijians are honestly the most friendly people you are likely to meet in the South Pacific.
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