Florida
Florida has long been the most popular dive destination for Americans looking for warm water diving and there is something here for everyone. The Florida Keys stretch out into the Caribbean Sea, their shores lined with marine parks and coral reefs. Their fearsome reputation as a watery grave to unwary ships has also left a rich legacy of shipwrecks for the diver to explore.
There's more to Florida than the Caribbean-like ambience of the Keys though. Central Florida plays host to some of the best cave and cavern diving in the world. Some of these sites need specialist training, but not all, and the experience of diving in the truly crystal waters of the warm springs has to be on every diver's list.
Grab a map of Florida and you’ll see why there are as many diving opportunities as there are alligators in the Everglades. Looking much like a long finger pointing into the blue oceanic waters, many of the best dive sites are within a few short hours drive from just about anywhere in the state. You could dive from spots at the top of the Panhandle to the bottom of the Florida Keys – and every place in between. Here’s a roundup of the best places to enjoy Florida’s underwater world.
Dry Tortugas National Park
Some of the best snorkelling in North America is found on this coral island some 70 miles west of Key West. Under the massive ramparts of Fort Jefferson and lying on a carpet of brilliant white sand is a myriad of colorful tropical fish and living coral. The shallow waters make this area perfect for first time snorkellers. You’ll see lots of colorful corals, several varieties of tropical fish, starfish, queen conchs and much more in this protected marine sanctuary. A great addition to your snorkel experience is a side trip to the Windjammer wreck. This 200-foot Schooner wreck, located just off Loggerhead Key, is home to thousands of tropical fish and spiny lobster.
Crystal River
This is a manatee heaven. The area is a major mecca for manatees, which congregate in herds in the warm waters from November through April. The gentle creatures can reach an average 10 feet in length and 1,000 pounds and are a protected and endangered species. Only snorkelling is allowed in the posted manatee areas and harassing or chasing them is strictly prohibited. Divers can experience dozens of freshwater springs that boil from the underground aquifer. The salty mix of Gulf waters create a marine environment that is nothing short of spectacular. You are also just as likely to find tarpon, snapper and redfish as you are to see large mouth bass and garfish.
Ginnie Springs
Diving here is like diving in a big bottle of spring water. Put a face mask on and you’d swear the fish are floating in air. The 100-foot-diameter depression, located on a 200-acre forest setting, is near the town of High Springs. It features campsites, a country store and bath facilities. There are nine springs that flow into the tannin-dyed Santa Fe River, which is an endless source of fun when lazily floating on tubes above divers exploring the caverns below.
Devil's Den and Blue Grotto
Devil’s Den: Near the small town of Williston, this fern draped sinkhole offers a unique geological setting and was actually once thought by early settlers to be the den of hell, as steam rising from the warm waters in winter does bear resemblance to its name. Divers know better, as do snorkellers and swimmers who enter the open steps from this window above to enjoy the underground basin 60 feet below. The water's depths range just below 50 feet and the cave system in the deeper area of the basin has been gated off.
Blue Grotto: Just about a stone’s throw from the Devil’s Den is the Blue Grotto, the largest clear-water cavern in the state. Open to divers of all skill levels, the maximum depth you can reach is 100 feet. A highlight to this site is the compressed air-supplied bell at 30 feet. You can enter and take the regulator out of your mouth mid-dive and talk to your buddy.
West Palm Beach
Gulf Stream-powered drift diving is the name of the game. The fast moving corridor of water brings a unique blend of excellent visibility, beautiful corals and a rich life source of marine estuaries that provide a breeding ground for marine life. Drifting effortlessly over mile after mile of spectacular coral reef and clouds of fish is like visiting an underwater zoo. These fishy waters offer the diver more opportunities to interact with big critters such as sea turtles than just about anywhere else in the world. During the season between May and September it is not uncommon to see a dozen or more of these big cruisers drifting alongside you and your buddy. It is also not uncommon when keeping your eye to the blue to see a shark or sailfish drift in; just remember you are on the migratory path of whales and other oceanic creatures.
Venice
Who would have thought that the beautiful beaches of this town were the favorite hangout for the toothy prehistoric choppers many eons ago? The ancient riverbed about a mile off Venice beach is known as the “Shark Tooth Capital of the World.” For years divers have been grunging in the less than clear water finding enormous shark teeth. Some can actually bring in a few hundred dollars. But for most of us, to find a few for a keepsake pendant is worth the trip alone.
Miami / Fort Lauderdale
Just offshore within sight of the stylish hotels that populate these beaches are a string of wrecks that appear to mimic the accommodations. In fact, that is exactly what these wrecks are – fish hotels. An aggressive artificial reef programme has sent dozens of wrecks to the seafloor, including three retired oil platforms called Tenneco Towers. The rigs are covered in corals and sponges and populated with schools of fish. Many of these wrecks are lined up stern to bow and stretch for miles. Miami's “Wreck Trek” is a cluster of sites that can be dived in a single tank – two if you want to see more. Sites include a 65-foot steel tug, two M60 tanks, the 110-foot Billy's Barge, Ben's Antennae Reef and dozens of 100-foot plus freighters.
Looe Key
Just off of Big Pine Key are the fabulous reefs of Looe Key. This 5.5-square-mile National Marine Sanctuary is a protected underwater ecosystem. It is an undersea oasis reminiscent of big reef structures found throughout the Bahamas; and was named after the HMS Looe, a British Man O’ War that ran aground in 1744. The wreck no longer exists, but the pristine reefs that lie within the sanctuary are a living coral system that features a high profile spur-and-groove coral configuration. The deeper reefs are an impressive collection of almost every type of sponge and soft coral found in the Florida Keys.
Key Largo
The colourful reefs and mind-numbing profusion of fish in Pennekamp Park is reason enough to pack up the family wagon and head south. But if you are looking for some really big wrecks, the 510-foot Spiegel Grove may be the main attraction. After nearly eight years of planning and an edge-of-your-seat sinking that had the Grove floating upside down on national television, the wreck is now attracting the marine life attention it deserves. Two other great wrecks not to be missed are the former Coast Guard cutters Bibb and Duane. Toothy fish like barracuda and oceanic jacks have made these sites their home base.
Pensacola, Destin and Panama City
Pensacola: This military town has not only shaped the city's commerce, but its dive sites as well. Wrecks include the 500-foot World War I battleship, USS Massachusetts, the Russian freighter San Pablo, a Navy barge and an A-7 Corsair that fell off the deck of the carrier USS Lexington. You’ll find Vietnam-era tanks and various other naval ships. USS Oriskany, a retired aircraft carrier, is scheduled to become Pensacola’s newest artificial reef.
Destin: Military buffs will find the waters off this beach town littered with sunken barges, tugs, liberty ships, landing craft, airplanes, army tanks and bridge rubble populated with grouper, flounder and cobia.
Panama City: The marine institute has sent ships, Navy scrap metal, pontoons, towers, bridge spans, tanks, hovercraft and even a Quonset hut to the bottom of the Gulf since the 1970’s. Perhaps the most famous wreck is the Empire Mica, a 465-foot British tanker that was torpedoed by a German U-boat in 1942. It now rests in 110 feet of water 20 miles off Cape San Blas.
Finally, we can never forget that Florida is synonymous with visiting a certain Mouse, and you can even dive there. Within Walt Disney World Epcot park is the Living Seas Pavilion. Every day, 16 lucky divers get to enter the main tank there and become part of the park's attraction themselves.
Over and above the diving Florida offers more bang for your tourist buck than any other destination in the world and it must be the perfect choice for divers looking to combine diving with a family holiday. The interstate system is excellent and it is very easy to move around the state sampling the offerings at a number of locations. Two weeks is just not going to be enough!
Getting There:
Florida has two major gateway cities for flights from the UK. The most popular is Orlando, which has a wide range of charter flights operating to Orlando Sanford airport, to the northwest of the city. Scheduled flights usually arrive at the larger and more conveniently located Orlando International airport. Whereas scheduled flights are currently only available from London and Manchester, charter flights operate year-round from an extensive range of UK regional cities.
Miami is the other major arrivals points for flights to Florida from the UK. The main hub airport is Miami International, which is an important base for American airlines. American use Miami as a key gateway for reaching their Caribbean destinations. Currently, flights to Miami are only available direct from London Heathrow. Some charter flights operate from London Gatwick. They sometimes go to Miami International, and sometimes operate to Fort Lauderdale, which is also a major cruise ship transfer point. Fort Lauderdale is 30 miles to the north of Miami.
There are also some direct flights available with British Airways from London Gatwick to Tampa.
Another excellent option is KLM who offer daily flights into Miami and West Palm Beach from Amsterdam connecting from numerous local UK airports.
Connecting flights within the USA
Numerous options are available for connecting flights from other cities in the USA to Florida, if you are looking for a multi-stop trip. With the current favourable exchange rates and low fare offers, it should also be possible to find good value open-jaw tickets. For example American Airlines, British Airways and Virgin offer the opportunity to fly from London to New York or Boston, to make your own way overland, and then to return home from Miami. American Airlines might be able to offer this as a three way trip. Other connections are available via cities such as Philadelphia, Washington or Atlanta. US Airways are currently heavily discounting flights through their Philadelphia hub.
Worldwise:
Florida is "tourist central" and well geared up to satisfy the demands of most people. There is a huge range of accommodation and eateries to suit every pocket. Hiring a car is easy and if you buy one of the prepaid "Gold" packages from the UK before you arrive, you won't find yourself hassled with all the extra taxes and insurances that often double the price of so called "free" cars. There are countless numbers of dive stores so research which one suits you and don't be afraid to ask for a "deal". Like all large cities, some parts of Miami are to be avoided. Use commonsense and stick to the tourist areas and you'll have a great time. The coastal resorts and the Upper Keys are best for families. They can be busy at Easter when lots of American college kids head for the beach. Miami with its fantastic club scene is great for singles. Key West also has a flamboyant and vibrant night life.
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BSAC TRAVEL CLUB BOOKSHOP SELECTION
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Florida Keys page
Amy Slate's Amoray Dive Resort
Diving Ginnie Springs by Alison Boler
High seas drifter - diving WPB by Alison Boler
Return to West Palm Beach, August 2006 by Alison Boler
Florida Keys by Jon Gunns
Diving Diversity Despite Adversity - Key Largo by Alison Boler
Florida Cave Diving by Steve Pearson
Manatees & more by Charles Stirling
Mermaids & Manatees: Crystal River by Alison Boler
Mum's Big Surprise - Disney DiveQuest, Disney World by Alison Boler
Tourist Office site
Rodale's Guide to the Florida Mainland
The Empress's New Clothes
Wreck World
Fat Sirens of the Crystal River
Keys to the Highway
Diving the Big O
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