Honduras - The Bay Islands
The Bay Islands of Honduras hug the coastline of the South Western Caribbean. Arrayed in an arc, Guanaja, Roatan, Utila and the other 65 cays collectively known as the Bay Islands appear at the edge of Honduras's continental shelf. They are the exposed peaks of the Bonacca Ridge, an undersea mountain range flooded by rising ice age waters. Just a few hundred years ago, these lush, tropical havens were hideouts for pirate ships looting gold-laden Spanish galleons, which were themselves fresh from pillaging the mainland.
Today, tucked away on shore among the coconut trees, flowering red hibiscus and mangroves, are eco-resorts-collections of wooden bungalows that blend unobtrusively into the seaside The Bay Islands were amongst the original eco resorts. Long before some of the others got started, tourists here were delighting in the mix of untouched reefs, tropical jungle, peaks, rivers, historical sites and exotic wildlife that Honduras provides.. A week here puts you in your own private cabana with porch hammock overlooking clear waters colonized by coral. In addition to offering some tremendous scuba diving and snorkelling, most resorts provide kayaks, fishing, horseback riding, hiking, cultural tours and other diversions that round out the eco-tour experience.
But diving is the major draw. Within sight of shore, the fringing reefs begin in shallows and slope gradually, many pockmarked with fissures, swim-throughs and deep coral recesses. Out in the blue waters, seamounts rise from the deep, rocked by steady currents and frequented by larger schooling fish. Bluebell tunicates, black coral walls, black groupers and acres of pillar coral are all hallmarks of Bay Islands diving. Divers here can count on seeing an astonishing range of Caribbean marine life--from tiny red-lipped blennies to lumbering whale sharks--and it's easy to see why these Central American islands are one of the Caribbean's must-see destinations.
Though more popular now than in years past, the Bay Islands retain an undeniable charm and often at an incredibly cheap price. All-in packages are often available for around $1000 per week. Hospitable locals who respect the gringo dollar, reefs that rival any in the Caribbean and an affordable travel experience combine to make this a destination worthy of the most dog-eared logbook.
Roatan
The largest and most developed of the Bay Islands, Roatan is the heart and transportation hub of the archipelago. The small international airport receives direct flights from U.S. cities and commuter flights from the Honduran mainland. The dive resorts here absorb the greatest number of visitors to the Bay Islands with a range of accommodations that vary from wind-cooled waterfront bungalows to air-conditioned hotel-style resorts.
The Diving - The fringing reef along the north shore starts in as little as 20 feet of water, but the real attraction is the wall that drops from 40 feet to well over 130. Cracked with numerous sand channels, valleys and swim-throughs, it shelters a diverse array of critters including lobster and moray eels. On the south side, the drop-off starts in 25 feet of water and is close enough to dive from shore.
Some of the most popular dive sites are found on the current-swept western tip of the island, where a marine park that prohibits spearfishing and lobstering is giving the big fish - like grouper and barracuda - a chance to rebound. Roatan operators also offer day trips to the remote East End to dive pristine reefs off Barbareta, Helene and Morat islands. Adding to the attractions is the 230-foot freighter El Aguila, the Bay Islands' newest wreck dive.
Guanaja
The sleeping giant of the Bay Islands is a dagger-shaped ridge of mountainous peaks complete with heavy jungle growth and cascading waterfalls. You'll feel like you have the second largest of the Bay Islands to yourself because almost nobody lives on Guanaja. The handful of dive resorts, which range from hillside bungalows to a Spanish-style villa, are spaced out around the island and connected only by water taxi.
The Diving - Guanaja's coral formations are the most dramatic in the Bay Islands. Along the north shore, shallow reefs begin in 20 feet of water and slope steeply down to 60 to 80 feet. Off the south shore, the wall starts in 40 feet of water, then drops almost vertically to 120 feet and a narrow shelf before dropping off again into the deep.
The walls are perforated with caves, overgrown canyons and swim-throughs, and although there seem to be fewer fish here than around the other Bay Islands, you can spot everything from cleaner shrimp to snapper and spotted eagle rays. The signature wreck dive of the Bay Islands, the Jado Trader, is also found off Guanaja.
Utila
Utila has earned a reputation as a backpacker's dive paradise with lots of bargain lodging, dining, drinking and - most of all - diving. And while the island caters to scruffy European backpackers with inexpensive diving lessons, Utila has some of the richest diving in the Bay Islands and shouldn't be missed by any dedicated nitrogen junkie.
The body-pierced and Birkenstocked crowd flock to the mom-and-pop dive stores that tend to dive from small outboard fishing boats; the nitro-hungry and Nikonos set head to more traditional dive lodges that use larger, more comfortable boats.
The Diving - Regardless of which group you fall into, you'll appreciate the diversity of underwater terrain and marine life. Utila has the Bay Islands' widest array of diving options, with fringing reefs and walls on the north and south shores, a string of small cays and submerged seamounts. Marine life ranges from tiny bluebell tunicates to the whale sharks that are frequently sighted here.
Reefs along the southern shore start in 15 to 20 feet of water, then gradually slope away to 200 feet, with mini-walls from 40 to 80 feet. Along the north shore, the platform reef falls steeply off the continental shelf, dropping from 25 feet to more than 1,000. The dome-shaped seamounts rise to within 45 feet of the surface and attract pelagics like jacks, sharks and sea turtles.
Cayos Cochinos
One of diving's rare treasures, the Cayos Cochinos are a cluster of six small islands and a handful of sandy cays reminiscent of the South Pacific. The islands and all the reefs within a five-mile radius were made a national biological reserve and marine park before development took hold and only one rustic dive resort, a few private homes and a small Gar'funa fishing village were grandfathered into the reserve. Except for brief visits by day boats and a few live-aboards, you will have the islands all to yourself.
The Diving - Wall dives, submerged seamounts and numerous fringing reefs that are the healthiest and most active in the Bay Islands provide a menu of choices. Fringing reefs start in as little as five feet of water, and there are classic vertical walls from 20 to 100 feet. The most explosive diving is on the seamounts where you'll experience the full range of Bay Islands diversity.
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Honduras is home to the world's most aggressive no-see-ums; they bite, bite, bite. Although Avon Skin-So-Soft works for a few, most people need DEET, and some have serious allergic reactions to the bites. Those who are unprepared often find their holidays ruined - be warned!! The islands are scenically beautiful and some of the resorts offer over-water bungalows - if you're looking for a tropical paradise, it won't disappoint. If you have time, leave room to explore the jungles and tourist sites of the mainland - good value and extremely exotic.
Utila, Bay Islands, Honduras by Bronya Jackson
Rodale's Guide to Honduras and the Bay Islands
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