Kenya
Kenya is becoming increasingly popular as a dive destination.
When most people think of Kenya, they think of the world famous wilderness reserves, going on safari, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro. But there is another great wilderness area there, hidden beneath the surface of the Indian Ocean- a wilderness just as rich, diverse and ripe for exploration as any of the game parks.
Kenya was for a long time not widely known as a dive destination - but it certainly should be. Its 480 kms coastline is lined with coral reef systems that stretch North to the Scuba mecca of the Red Sea. The calm turquoise waters of our beaches lie in the protective shelter of reef after reef, home to a myriad bounty of sealife. Plunge below the surface and you will discover a new kind of safari- the world's finest scuba safari.
The diversity and spectacle of Kenya's wildlife doesn't end at the shore. Just as the plains are a sanctuary for vast herds of plains game, the reefs are home to huge shoals of many species of fish, stalked by undersea predators as fascinating as lions and leopards. For those seeking out Kenya's giant species- our elephant herds are matched by the migratory pods of whales that pass by the outer reefs.
The dedicated diver can travel the length of the coast visiting a remarkable range of dive sites- from relaxing scenic inner reef drifts to challenging deep dives, wreck explorations, Nitrox and night dives. Alternatively divers can base themselves at a single destination or resort and intensively explore the nearby sites. What could be more exciting than combining a reef safari with a game park safari?
Diving in Kenya is generally good all year round, although visibility lessens during July and August due to silting and high seas. The weather is consistently warm and sunny, with excellent balmy water temperature that makes for ideal dive conditions. The high number of dive shops along the coast means you will have access to qualified and experienced divemasters and guides, boats, airfill and full equipment hire including state of the art dive computers. I
The coast North of Mombasa has several world class dive sites. Some of the best sites are in the Watamu Marine National Park- a well protected and managed area. The reef here is close to shore, meaning easily accessible shallow coral gardens that are ideal for learners and snorkellers. The outer reef has some fine drop offs, with sheer walls, and large brain corals attracting consistently abundant sea life.
Dives on the central Turtle Reef average at around 10-15 metres, with high spiking coral heads attracting large shoals of colourful parrot and surgeon fish. You will occasionally sight a few white-tip reef sharks that are in residence on the reef.
This area is an important egg laying site for the endangered Green sea Turtle, which lay on the beaches at Watamu several times a year, and they are often seen around this reef. Nearby Moray Reef has a breathtaking overhang dropping 28 metres to a sandy bottom. The coral here is a refuge for octopus and eel, and a massive semi-tame moray. The sharp reef edge has plenty of nudibranch, angel fish, tang, and the occasional grouper or barracuda. An excellent all round dive site is The Canyon, a long sandy channel at 28m, bordered on each side by deep drop-offs. There is an impressive arch covered with soft corals, and the reef walls are always alive with trevalies and snapper. Diving into the channel itself is a good way to find rays and reef sharks. Whale Sharks pass through this year each year from October- February, with good sightings reported each day.
For Wreck Divers, there is a sunken trawler lying in about 14 metres of water near the mouth of Watamu's Mida Creek. Accessible only in Neap tides, the trawler is an easy shallow wreck drive. The wreck is not penetrable, but worth visiting for the excellent sea life, including some big resident grouper.
Migratory pods of Whales from Southern Africa pass through this area during the months of June- September, and are often seen breaching in deep water beyond the reefs.
A little further South towards Kilifi, there are good sites at Mtwapa and Barracuda Reef. The outer edges here have large shoals of angel and butterfly fish, and there have been occasional sighting of the world's largest shark- the spectacular Whale Shark- in these waters. The adventurous diver will not want to miss diving the Vuma Caves near Kilifi Creek. The caves are about 20 metres beneath the surface on the face of some seaside cliffs. The open sea around the entrance is a good place to spot dolphins, while the interior of the caves is a refuge for eels,some very large grouper and barracuda. After exploring the caves, divers exit through a 10 metre chimney to emerge through a hole in the reef above.
South of Mombasa, there are dive sites ranged along the coast from Tiwi south to Shimoni. Some of the best sites are centred around Kisiite Mpunguti Marine Reserve. This area is your best chance to sight some of the largest Manta Rays on the East African coast. For experienced divers, the best option here is Nyulli Reef. This is a good deep dive with strong tidal currents which allow drifts through spectacular coral, snapper, barracuda, rare zebra sharks and massive Napoleon wrasse.
A much easier dive is Kisiite Point. There is plenty of large, tame shoals to be found here, with average dive depth of around 12 metres. Divers at Kisiite often encounter hawksbill turtles and bottlenose dolphins.
A good excursion for both diving and snorkelling is a day dhow trip to Wasini Island, within the reserve- easily arranged from Diani or Shimoni. This usually includes snorkelling and/or diving, and a seafood lunch on the island. This is makes for a relaxing day trip, with dolphins often accompanying the dhow through the reserve, and the interior of the island itself well worth exploring.
The 80 metre ship MV Dania had spent 45 years plying the waters off the African coast, mainly as a live cattle transporter. The ship now lies in around 35 metres of water, just off Bamburi Beach. She was fully prepared for sinking, with her engines removed and hull cleaned to negate any environmental impact, and her interior fully cleared for safe penetration by divers. She now has a specialized "assault course" for trainee divers on her upper deck (at around 15 metres) while special direction lines have been laid below decks for divers who wish to penetrate the wreck, down to 30 metres at the ships lowest level.
In the island archipelagos of Northern Kenya, around Lamu and Manda, new dive sites are currently being explored and made accessible, opening a new frontier for the underwater adventurer.
Kenya offers the traveller a wide range of accommodation options: from youth hostels to five star luxury suites, from pitching your own tent in the wilderness to relaxing in a private beachside villa, the possibilities are endless. There are wonderful beach resorts stretched along the shoreline and they are surprisingly reasonably priced.
Kenya must be an ideal holiday location for an adventure packed trip that includes diving.
Getting There:
It is probably best to book a package via a tour operator as they will be able to advise you on flights and hotel combinations. However, there are direct flights to Mombasa every Saturday and Sunday from both Manchester (Sun only) and Gatwick as well as daily scheduled services such as with Kenya Airways via Nairobi.
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Kenya's beaches make the ideal retreat for relaxation after a safari. Interruptions to power and water supplies are not unknown but this rarely causes major inconvenience to visitors. While accommodation standards are good, service by the relaxed staff may be a little slow although invariably comes with a big smile! The national cuisine can be somewhat bland, but there is usually a range of continental dishes on offer at most hotels too. Hawkers and beach boys selling souvenirs can be a nuisance, but seldom cause offence. Crime is not unknown. Use common sense when venturing out alone. Don't expect gin clear waters: visibility is 20m at best, sometimes less.

Kenya by Trevor Thorpe
Pemba Island by Richard Booth
Pemba Under Sail by Dave Martin


Where Whale Sharks Roam
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