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Kosrae
Have you ever been somewhere where even the smell was Green? Kosrae is Micronesia's most remote destination and has three main geographical features - mountains, jungle and mangrove forests, ringed by miles of white sandy beaches. The mountains are dense and rugged, and are covered by dense tropical vegetation. Several peaks rise to over 2,000 feet above sea level and the mountains account for over 70% of the land mass. Interestingly for the diver the island has spectacular fringing reefs that completely encircle it. The abundance of marine life and pristine hard corals is impressive.
More than 50 dive sites have been identified by local diving pioneers, and it is often said that the island is one large 20km (32 mile) dive site. Each site has been marked with a buoy to prevent improper anchoring, leaving Kosrae's reefs pristine and ripe for exploration. Beautiful hard coral gardens punctuate the eastern side of the island, whilst to the west, the gardens give way to plunging walls.
Sharks, dogtooth tunas, schools of barracudas and other exciting ocean creatures can all be encountered along the reef's edge. A rainbow of colours can be found in the forests of tiny Christmas tree invertebrates that populate the large corals. Underwater visibility averages 30 metres (100 feet).
Below are a selection of Kosrae's best dive sites:
- Hiroshi Point: Located at buoy 15, this site offers divers glimpses of large coral heads - estimated to be more than 2,000 years old - and large numbers of Christmas tree worms and invertebrates. A diverse variety of marine life, including eagle rays, schools of huge parrotfish, reef sharks, barracudas and squids can be seen. It is a popular shore entry with a high tide and low surf. Great for snorkelling, too. Current is variable and generally runs north around the point.
- Lelu Current: Located at Buoy 54, and formerly known as D'Urville Point, this site is on a wide reef shelf and has many low-growing coral. It is often subject to rough water and can have strong currents; boat entry only. Divers have reported sailfish in the area. The point is a popular fishing spot.
- Walung Coral Shelf: Located at Buoy 32, the Walung Coral Shelf is a spectacular dive that includes a great variety of fish and healthy coral. The current is rough, sometimes too difficult to dive, so planning a dive is critical. The water is a little colder than usual, which is possibly the reason why the fish are so numerous and large.
- Walung Drop-Off: Located at Buoys 29 and 30, the drop-off is one of the most popular dive spots in Kosrae. Incredible sheer walls are home to schools of barracudas. All types of marine life have been seen here - small hammerheads and reef sharks, turtles, giant puffers, numerous small invertebrates. The current can be strong. Buoy 29 is located in shallow water and is a great snorkel spot; buoy 30 is on the outer reef.
- Malem Reef Shelf: Located at Buoys 8 - 10 on the windward side of the island, the site contains a wide reef shelf and is profusely covered with low-growing coral. A variety of fish can be seen here. Juvenile whale sharks have been spotted in the past.
- Blue Hole: Located across from Kosrae Nautilus Resort, this site is accessible even in stormy weather. Within the reef (maximum depth is 60 feet), you can see resident stingrays, large numbers of juvenile fish, huge puffers, and whatever else comes over the reef at high tide. Visibility varies. Walk or swim over the reef flat for entry.
- Yela Harbor and Wall: Located at Buoy 36, this deep wall site is home to many corals and scribbled filefish that are so curious and friendly that they'll follow divers around.
- Shark Island: Located at Buoys 39 and 40, this is considered an excellent dive site with many species of fish and invertebrates, but be careful of the fast current. If there is no current, Shark Island is a great night dive, but only one of many.
- The Leonora: Bully Hayes, infamous and notorious 19th century American pirate and trader, would often use Kosrae as a roadstead. In 1874, a typhoon whipped the ocean waters and sunk the schooner, named in honor of one his twin daughters. Discovered 110 years later, the Leonora rests in 30 feet of water at Utwe Harbor, though the only remnants are a few metal objects.
Climate
Kosrae has a warm, tropical climate. The dry season (the best time to travel) is between December and April; the rainy season, April to December, with the greatest falls between July and October.
Temperatures average between 78-90°F (26-32°C), with the water temperature sitting on a comfortable year-round 82-84°F(28-29°C).
Worldwise
There is something slightly unusual about Kosrae that you should be aware of. Missionaries have a huge influence here and unfortunately there are a lot of restrictions for visitors. For example, there are no activities at all allowed on Sundays. You cannot even go snorkelling. Modesty to exposed skin is also a problematic issue and on the dive boat you will be told when it is appropriate to change into your wetsuit, just to not offend any locals. Visitor numbers are hence very low on Kosrae. If you prefer not to be restricted in your activities and movements, it is better to choose any other destination in Micronesia, which are more uncomplicated. If you don't mind a day off in your vacation and are looking for solitude, this might just be your place. There’s plenty of land-based things to do: There are mysterious ancient ruins of the forefathers of the Kosraean people. World War II artefacts, cave systems and remnants abound and there's even a pirate ship sunk beneath the waves. A hike up to Kosrae's famous Mount Omar will take the visitors past a series of gushing waterfalls pouring through the lush Kosrae jungle. The mangroves of Kosrae are spectacular. In some places they form a high jungle canopy where rivers flow below and channels rise and fall with the tides.
Getting There:
The main gateways into the Federated States of Micronesia are Honolulu, Manila and Guam (flights arrive there from the USA, Australia and Asia). There are also twice-weekly flights from Taipei. A Circle Micronesia air pass originating in Los Angeles or San Francisco, or a Visit Micronesia pass originating in Guam, will let you hop around the islands. A large number of carriers have flights from the UK to US or Far Eastern gateway cities. It's a long haul however you do it!
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BSAC TRAVEL CLUB BOOKSHOP SELECTION
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Rodale Scuba Scuba Diving Guide to Micronesia
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