Cocos & Malpelo Islands
These remote islands which are around 300 miles off the coast of Costa Rica and Colombia respectively are only dived by liveaboard boats. The long (and sometimes rough) voyage is made worthwhile by the incredible populations of large fish, sharks and whales that are often schooling in the area.
Malpelo island was recognised as a Colombian Fauna and Fauna Sanctuary in 1996 and has a six mile protected area around its shores. It has a slightly sinister air maybe because it is the peak of a huge submarine ridge that rises from depths of 4000 metres. You can expect to see huge concentrations of Eagle Rays, Silky sharks and other large pelagics.
Because of the topography, there are sheer granite cliffs that plunge into deep water. One of these, known as the Altar of the Virgin, can have hundreds of free-swimming moray eels, huge snappers and groupers, dolphin and mantas. Another site, a group of pinnacles off the northern end of Malpelo, is called the Three Musketeers. Here, divers enter a series of tunnels and caverns and cathedrals, filled with countless thousands of silvery bait fish, dozens of lobsters, white-tipped reef sharks and large numbers of goat fish, grunts, jacks and groupers. La Gringa, is where divers go for real shark action and hundreds of female hammerhead sharks line up in strong currents just off the granite wall right in front of you. Water Temperatures around the Malpelo Islands are 27°C (80°F) with sharp thermoclines from 9-30m (30 - 100ft). A 5mm full wetsuit up to 7mm for multiple diving is recommended insulation (with boots, gloves).
Cocos Island is possibly the world's largest uninhabited island (several contenders!) and is the centre of a marine park, a World Heritage Site and the main jewel of Costa Rica's many national parks. It is commonly held to be one of the most incredible dive destinations on the planet and offers one of the best places in the world to dive with Hammerhead, Silky, White and Silver tip sharks, Manta Rays, dolphins and even Humpback whales and Whale Sharks. Most divers are completely blown away by the sheer numbers of these creatures on every dive.
When you want a break from the water you can go looking for the pirate treasure which is believed to still be on the island. It is told, that the richest treasure in the world is buried on Cocos Island, not only one, but two major loads. The first belonged to a pirate named Benito Bonito who sailed the "Relampago," raiding every city along the pacific coast line. The second and biggest treasure was brought to Cocos by Captain Thompson in 1821. An attempt by the Spaniards to hide the wealth of Lima from Simon Bolivar and his troops. Limas Governor and the clergy entrusted the treasure to Thompson and his ship "Mary Dear" who in return killed the guards and sailed off to Cocos Island. There is even a third load, belonging to Edward Davis, Captain of John Cook's ship, the "Bachelor Delight" who left behind some loot in the late 1600's.
Some dive sites around Cocos
Manuelita Island Depth: 45 to 150 feet.
This islet off Cocos's northeast corner features a sheer wall and deep boulders on the west side and shallow orange plate corals on the east. Lazy white-tip sharks and marbled rays are stacked atop each other on the rocks. Hammerheads venture in close for barberfish cleanings. Locate the schools of creoles - they migrate toward big-animal action - settle into the rocks, and don't move.
Dirty Rock Depth: 65 to 150 feet
Like diving the Grand Canyon. Half a mile off Cocos's northwest corner, this site has monstrous boulders sloping down the south side and a 100-yard-wide channel separating the main rock from a collection of pinnacles. Eagle rays soar between gaps, gorges and valleys formed by boulders, while hawksbill turtles and octopuses bop around the rocks. Look for whale sharks and mantas cruising the channel.
Shark Fin Rock Depth: Surface to 200 feet
A mile southwest of Punta Turrialba. This is a mammoth underwater rock with boulders hugging the southwest side and a wall on the northwest. A tornado of bigeye jacks sweeps around this site, while solitary tuna and pairs of wahoo hunt. Watch for mobila and Pacific manta rays during your safety stop.
Pajara Depth: 65 to 100 feet
Islet at the mouth of Weston Bay. Someone emptied a cupboard of plate corals down the south slope of this site. There's an 85-foot wall on the north side. Look for orange, muppet-like frogflsh on the wall at 55 feet and morays in the coral. Green and hawksbill turtles rotate around a pinnacle to the west.
Big Dos Amigos Depth: 65 to 120 feet
A half-mile off Punta Rodriguez, this islet features a 45-foot-high arch and a 60-foot pinnacle off the southeast side. Rainbow runners, yellowtail snappers and bigeye jacks stream through the arch. Cracks are packed with lobster. Hundreds of hammerheads swim between the islet and the pinnacle.
Worldwise:
Well worth every penny of the not inconsiderable liveaboard cost and the long steam from the coast. This is not diving for the beginner – there are strong currents, the water is not always warm and buoyancy control needs to be excellent. You need to curb your enthusiasm – you're a long way from the nearest chamber. Be ready for the adrenaline rush caused by looking up and seeing your surface exit blocked by huge numbers of hammerheads….
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BSAC TRAVEL CLUB BOOKSHOP SELECTION
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Cocos by Richard Booth
Cocos on Undersea Hunter by Sophie Rennie
Sharks in the Dark
Visit to the Barbershop
The Stuff of Legends
Hammerhead Island
Costa Rica
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