Northern France
General
Northern France offers diving and cold water conditions very similar to those experienced in southern England. What therefore might attract UK divers to the area? The answer lies in the many wrecks on the seabed in an area that is closer to home for many divers than Scapa Flow.
The diving - Normandy
Normandy is famous as the site of the D Day landings and has many wrecks dating back to that period ranging from destroyers and troop ships to individual tanks. Although some wrecks lie in the 40 - 50 metres range, there are large numbers at 30 metres or less and a satisfying expedition can be mounted without the need for excessively deep diving. Wrecks from this period include:
- HMNS SVENNER, a destroyer operated by the Norwegian Navy and sunk by German E Boat on D Day itself and now lying in 30 metres.
- The SUSAN B ANTHONY, a troopship sunk on 7 June 1944 by mine and now lying in 30 metres but with superstructure up to 10 metres proud of the seabed.
- The EMPIRE BROADSWORD, another troopship sunk by mine and now lying in 23 metres. Caution is needed on this wreck which is starting to disintegrate.
In addition to these large vessels, there are numerous landing craft in depths between 10 - 40 metres.
Closer to shore, the remains of the Mulberry artificial harbour are still visible at Arromanches and make for an unusual shallow dive. The harbour consists of ships and concrete caissons sunk as break waters and prefabricated metal piers and roadways. One interesting dive is the DRAGON, a British cruiser on loan to the Polish Navy and used for shore bombardment before being hit by torpedo on 8th June 1944 and scuttled to form an additional breakwater.
Of course, Normandy also has other shipwrecks worth diving including:
- The USSA, a cargo vessel sunk in 1917 by mine and now lying generally intact at a depth of 27 metres although subject to strong currents and close to the shipping channel into Cherbourg.
- The STRATHALBYN, another cargo ships sunk by mine, this time in 1916. Lying in 30 metres, the wreck is broken but still in large pieces and makes a good dive although care needs to be taken in the current.
In the area there are also more than 30 identified but unknown wrecks for those who appreciate a mystery.
The diving - Brittany
While Brittany has fewer wrecks than Normandy, it is still an attractive diving destination. Two wrecks off West Brittany worth a dive are:
- The KLEBER, a French cruiser sunk by mine in 1917 and sitting upside down in 45 metres.
- The AMOCO CADIZ, the infamous super - tanker, now in 35 metres and rarely dived due to the strong currents but allegedly a good dive if the conditions are right.
Diving conditions and weather
Diving conditions are similar to those experienced in southern England. Air temperatures vary from 8°C in winter to 20/25° C in the summer. Water temperatures vary between 10 - 19°C.
Underwater visibility can be up to 20 metres in the colder months but will more normally be 5 - 10 metres.
Precautions
Some of the wrecks in this area are disintegrating and care is needed when diving, particularly if penetration is planned.
The Channel is one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world and there can be strong currents off both Normandy and Brittany. When added to the large tidal range, sometimes as much as 7 metres, care will be needed in dive planning.
War graves
Some of the wrecks in the Normandy area are war graves. Take advice on restrictions this imposes on diving. In doubt, contact the MOD:
Naval Staff (Secretariat) 5
Ministry of Defence
London SW1A 2HB
Worldwise
Check in advance with the dive operator what requirements there are for documentation. Many operators will insist on a medical form signed by a doctor.
A medical Form E111 will allow routine medical treatment but may not cover all emergencies. Diving insurance is recommended.
Shore based activities
In addition to eating and drinking (well, this is France and Normandy is famous for its 32 cheeses, tripe and Calvados) both Normandy and Brittany have much to offer the non-diver or divers taking a day off.
The Bayeux Tapestry in the Centre Guillaume le Conquerant, Bayeux is a hsitoric record of the 1066 invasion.
Those interested in the 1944 invasion will find many museums and monuments along the coastline. The Musée du Debarquement in Arromanches is a good place to start.
Mont Saint Michel, the medieval Benedictine Monastery on the Normandy Coast, is worth a visit.
Getting there
Many divers opt to dive from liveabord boats departing from southern English ports. Other travel options include frequent ferries, hovercraft and the Channel Tunnel.
FRANCE main page
SOUTH OF FRANCE page
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BSAC TRAVEL CLUB BOOKSHOP SELECTION
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Normandy by Liveaboard "White Horse" by Chris Hunka
Normandy and the D Day Wrecks by Chris Ingham
Normandy by Liveaboard "Maureen" by Steve Chaplin
Ice diving in Tignes
Arcachon, Bordeaux by Wendy Cooke
Sur 'autre Cote
The Longest Week: Normandy Beaches
Pearl of the Atlantic
Great Brittany
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