Panama
Overview
Panama is a maritine country par excellence with its history and economy linked to the sea. It has coasts on the Caribbean (1,207 km) and the Pacific Oceans (1700.6 km). Rich in tourist adventure both above and below the water there is plenty to keep the visitor occupied.
It is difficult to write about Panama without using superlatives in a country where the examples of flora and fauna are so numerous. Panama means "land of the abundant fish" - a good sign for the diving to be round here.
There are 765 miles of coastline on the Pacific Ocean and 425 miles on the Caribbean Sea; off both shores, 1,600 islands are strung like bracelets. From the country's mountainous interior, 500 rivers and streams empty into both oceans. Millions of acres of primeval rain forest sweep down from the mountains to the lowlands. There are 2,000 species of flowering plants (1,000 different types of orchids alone, including the national flower, the Holy Ghost orchid), more than 700 species of birds like the brilliantly plumaged quetzal and 350 kinds of reptiles, including the endangered golden frog.
The bounty continues under water, too: 250 species of reef and game fish, 52 different kinds of coral, more than a dozen species of turtles and a diverse and dramatic reefscape and bottomography. Panama's varied underwater possibilities are the result of a privileged geographic location. Like a graceful curved wrist, Panama links Costa Rica in Central America to Colombia in South America. Only 50 miles wide at its narrowest point, it is not only possible to hike up the 11,400-foot-high Volvan Baru, a long-extinct volcano, and see both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean, it's possible to dive both oceans on the same day.
Divers will find plenty of everything in Panama's waters, from the pulse-hammering drama of the Pacific - sharks, whales, dolphins, black marlin, 400-pound jewfish, abyssal drop-offs and volcanic formations - to the calm and clear Caribbean Sea, where three-quarters of the world's types of corals and more than half of its tropical fish species thrive on shallow and varied fringing reefs.
There's more. It's even possible to dive the famous Panama Canal and see the remains of the first trans-isthmian railroad, the trains that ran on it and the 19th century dredges that excavated the canal
Contadora (Islas de las Perlas)
Islas de las Perlas—the Pearl Islands—are located south of Panama City with Taboga probably the best-known diving destination. Because it's fairly close to the mainland, it gets crowded with day-trippers, especially on weekends. Contadora is less visited and farther out - here's where you'll find open-ocean diving and big pelagic action.
Be prepared to see barracuda, hundreds in a single dive, white-tip sharks muscling in for a better look, and jewfish that top the scales at more than 350 pounds. When your pulse has stopped racing, you can explore unique rocky formations and seamounts that harbor smaller fish, like wrasses.
THE CARIBBEAN COAST
Bocas del Toro Archipelago
Off the northwest coast of the mainland is the Bocas del Toro archipelago, some of which enjoys the protection afforded by the Isla Bastimentos National Marine Park. Shore diving is possible everywhere, and at least four dive operators offer daily trips to the main reef, about 45 minutes from the archipelago.
Shore diving is on the fringing reefs that start in shallow water and slope down. The aquarium is open: Huge schools of parrotfish, angelfish, wrasse, blue and brown chromis and butterflyfish flash by, in ever-changing directions. These shelf-like plateaus are rich and dense with tube and fan worms, anemones and colonies of bryozoans. In deeper
water, look for spotted eagle rays and healthy boulders of brain coral.
Portobelo / Isla Grande
Portobelo is a very small, unspoiled town located on the north central coast. Here you'll find the ruins of old Spanish forts and ancient cannons, evidence of the attempt by 16th century Spaniards to protect its substantial booty from marauding pirates.
Purely Caribbean, charming Isla Grande is just east of Portobelo. The island's lighthouse is a 30-minute trek along a coastal path, and worth the hike. There are wrecks galore in this area. All those battles between the Spanish and pirates led to quite a few scuttled galleons, from the 17th and 18th centuries. The wrecks are teeming with thick schools of colorful tropicals, including sergeant majors, yellowtail snappers, schoolmasters and blue tangs.
Diving the Panama Canal
Gatun Lake, next to the Panama Canal, makes for a unique diving destination. The diving here is not for everyone—the vis is only so-so and it can be rather spooky to hear an ocean-going vessel rumbling overhead, its enormous props creating considerable turbulence. If you decide to try the diving—this is, after all, the Panama Canal, a heroic engineering effort that stands as testimony to human ingenuity - it is here that you can see the remains of the first trans-isthmian railroad
and the dredges that excavated the Canal. Peacock bass thrive in the lake's warm waters
Food:
A mouth-watering fusion of French, Spanish and American food, with a huge array of restaurants to choose from. Some specialities not to be overlooked include ceviche, a fish dish marinated in lime juice, onions and peppers; patacones de plátano or fried plantain; tamales, a tasty pie wrapped in banana leaves; and carimanolas and empanadas, turnovers filled with meat or cheese. Wines and spirits are widely available in hotels and restaurants.
Getting there
COPA is the national airline, serving destinations throughout central, North and South America, with Miami as the main hub. Flight time from London is 14 hrs. There is a US$20 departure tax on international flights, which must be paid in cash. The principal overland route is via the Pan-American Highway from Costa Rica to Panama City. It is unsafe to cross into Colombia via the Darién Gap. There is a frequent passage of cruise liners passing through the Panama Canal from the Atlantic to the Pacific.
Weather:
Hot all the year round, though cooler at high altitudes. Rainy season is from May to November.
|
BSAC TRAVEL CLUB BOOKSHOP SELECTION
in association with amazon.co.uk
|
|
 |
reality check
The best diving months are in the summer. Visibility can be variable, with plankton blooms at some times of the year - but then, that's what the big feeders like, so there are advantages. Pack light clothes and remember that it can rain in this part of the world. The currency is the US Dollar which locals call the Balboa, after the explorer.
Electrical current is 220v in some areas and 110 in others. Bring an adaptor. Panama is a malarial zone, make sure you are protected.
Twin Oceans Dive Center
Scuba Diving Magazines's Guide to Panama
Rodales's Guide to Panama Diving
|
