Pohnpei
Pohnpei is the largest island in the Federated States of Micronesia. Pohnpei Island is a deeply indented, jagged circle, some 21 kilometres in diameter, 112 kilometres in circumference. Its main features of topography are the outer barrier reef, the intertidal lagoon, the fringe reef and mangrove forest, the lowland area on the outer edges of the island, and the central mountain rain forests. You probably won't want to go to Pohnpei, the site of the nation's capital, if you just want to lie around on the beach - there are better beaches elsewhere in Micronesia. But if you're looking for magnificent Pacific island scenery, you will certainly find it on this island. (And, if you are lucky, it may stop raining long enough for you to enjoy it.) Pohnpei's mountains rise nearly 2,600 ft/790 m, providing a spectacular backdrop for its waterfalls, rivers, beaches, mangroves and rain forests.
Pohnpei state is divided into 11 political municipalities. The main island is ringed by 25 smaller widely scattered coral atolls, which lies outside the barrier reef. Pohnpei's population of around 34,000 lives mostly on the main island and are engaged in subsistence agriculture and a variety of cottage agricultural and handicraft industries. Pohnpei's pepper for example, though expensive, is regarded as the finest in the world. Mangrove swamps mostly cover Pohnpei Island's shoreline and some artificial beaches have been created to allow easier water access.
While on Pohnpei, walk the streets of Kolonia, the island's main town, to see the ruined Spanish fort, wartime fortifications and the former Japanese meteorological station (now a botanical garden).Kolonia also offers the best nightlife in the country. Residents settle into bars that serve sakau, the mildly narcotic drink extracted from pepper roots. (Note: It has anesthetic properties, and it is often made with unpurified water.) Visitors are welcome in these quiet establishments, which are found almost everywhere. Palikir, the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia, is just 5 mi/8 km west of Kolonia, but it holds nothing of interest to tourists. At Porakiet, "the village within a village," you'll find Polynesian residents in traditional huts who make wood carvings of sharks and other figures. Climb Sokehs Ridge to see abandoned Japanese guns and a great view. Most Pohnpeians will be happy to direct visitors to their favorite waterfalls and swimming spots. Among the most impressive waterfalls we've found are Kehn Paipohn in Kitti and Kepirohi in Madolihnihmw.
Pohnpei has recently been tagged the "Garden Island" of Micronesia and, with one look at the luxuriant inland vegetation, it's not difficult to understand why. The island abounds in tropical forests, cascading mountain streams, spectacular waterfalls, hidden pools and exquisite flora.
Most intriguing of all of Pohnpei's spectacles are the ruins of Nan Midol, an ancient Venice-like city from which, it is said, the Saddlers ruled Pohnpei. Apparently, the construction and modification of Nan Midol (which is made up of some 92 man made islets) commenced at around 500 AD and some of the buildings have been dated to as recently as 1500 AD. The major buildings were constructed of immense stone logs, six meters long weighing several tons. Some of these logs are stacked crisscross, to form walls 12 meters high and five meters thick! The Saddlers are believed to have taken over at around 1000 AD and remained in power until they were defeated in 1628.
Nan Midol, because of its remote seashore location is best accessed by boat. Also, because of the huge size (80 hectares), it is impossible to see more than a handful of islets on any one trip.
Climate
Pohnpei has a warm, tropical climate. The dry season (the best time to travel) is between December and April; the rainy season, April to December, with the greatest falls between July and October. The rain is rarely heavy, however, and there is still a lot of sunshine.
Temperatures average between 78-90 degrees Fahrenheit (26-32 degrees Celsius), with the water temperature sitting on a comfortable year-round 82-84 Fahrenheit (28-29 degrees Celsius).
Diving
Pohnpei's jagged coastline is intersected by numerous channels that carry nutrients into the vast lagoon. These nutrients attract all manner of marine life, making Pohnpei one of the most varied underwater environments in Micronesia. The best diving tends to be on the surrounding islets - the visibility is much better there. The island's hard coral reefs and colourful drop-offs are enchanting. Sea anemones, soft corals and colourful gorgonian sea fans dot the walls.
Pakin Atoll boasts some of the largest gorgonian fans in the world. The outlying islands are accessible by boat, and in the reef surrounding the main island, 18 passes offer a wide variety of coral and marine life viewing, including sharks and mantas.
Worldwise
Pohnpei has two cultural centres which are located in authentic settings and demonstrate traditional Pohnpeian activities including handicrafts, sakau-making and food preparation. Sakau is very similar to the kava in Fiji or Vanuatu. As in Fiji and Vanuatu, it is the traditional drink of friendship and with it's making and drinking comes a traditional ritual paying mutual homage to host and guest. Pohnpei has several Sakau bars where visitors are warmly invited to join locals in drinking this mud-flavoured, slightly inebriating concoction.
Getting There:
Continental Micronesia is the airline of the region with flights to Guam, Saipan, Truk, Palau, Yap, Pohnpei, Kosrae, Majuro and Kwajeilin. The main international gateways are Guam and Saipan however the other islands also have international airports. Flights into Micronesia are available from Manila, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan, Honolulu and West Coast USA.
Air Nauru also provides a regular service to Guam and Pohnpei from Manila, Nauru and connections from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane in Australia; Tarawa (Kiribati); Honiara (Solomon Islands) and Nadi (Fiji). Special fares are available on Air Nauru from Australia, Manila and the Pacific Islands with connections from Asia, Europe etc.
All Nippon Airways (ANA) has services from Australia (Sydney or Brisbane) to Guam via Osaka or Tokyo.
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