Protea Banks, South Africa
Map - courtesy www.Divethebig5.co.za
Protea Banks is rated as one of the world's best shark diving spots, situated approximately 1.5 hours drive from Durban and 8 kilometres offshore from Shelly Beach. Protea is best dived from the town of Margate, a seaside resort built very much on the British model. The hotels, restaurants and shops wouldn't be out of place in the original Margate, but the weather and the fine beaches leave you in no doubt that you're not in Kent.
There is a range of accommodation from camping sites upwards and divers will enjoy the company of other divers only too willing to discuss the day over a cold beer and a bbq.
Diving at Protea Banks can be quite challenging due to the likelihood of current but is well worth it. Here divers have the opportunity to see large schools of pelagic fish, many rays like the Spotted Eagle and Manta rays, three species of Hammerheads, Bull Sharks, Tiger Sharks, Ragged Tooth Sharks Threshers, Coppers, Duskies Sand Sharks and the occasional Great White in their natural environment. Depending on the season you can also see dolphins and whales.
Visibility varies from 5 to 40 metres, and the water temperature in summer is 24+ degrees Celsius and in winter not colder than 19 degrees Celsius. The depths vary between 30 and 40 metres and often 4 knot mid-water drift dives. It is not uncommon to cover 4 km. of reef in a single dive! This is adventure diving at it's best.
Like Aliwal, sea conditions can be variable here with exciting boat launching! The pattern is to use rigid inflatables and head straight out into an impressive surf break, reaching near-vertical angles as the skippers dart in and out through elusive gaps in the wave sets. This can be quite unnerving to those not used to it.
Essentially, the impressive reef system of Protea Banks is one huge dive site – a massive uprising full to bursting with caves, pinnacles, ridges and bowls, the rocky reef substrate covered by sponges, and a pretty impressive range of corals given the less-than-tropical latitude. Individual areas with names such as the Caves, The Arena and the Southern Pinnacles give a good indication of the type of topography on offer. And the surprising diversity of profile is mirrored by a wide assortment of marine life, colorful Indian Ocean reef species mingling with the silvery hues of cold-water southern fishes, while flashing schools of small pelagics dart about.
Snappers and sweetlips may vie for attention with kingfish, but the real attention grabber – and the chief attraction that has put Protea on the diving map – is the year-round certainty of encountering sharks.
The Northern Pinnacles
The northern pinnacles is a really beautiful area from a topography point of view. It features several open caves, a big ledge with overhangs and shallow caves and lovely, pristine, undamaged reef formations. The Northern Pinnacles are generally dived during the winter months when the Raggies congregate and mate there - sometimes you will see in excess of 150 in a small area.
The Southern Pinnacles
For the rest of the year, diving takes place on the southern pinnacles, which are not as beautiful to look at, but feature the most fantastic shark sightings imaginable. Diving starts here in October when the first Zambezies come back and schools of Hammerheads are often encountered from November onwards. The first five months of the year Zambezies, Hammerheads, Sandsharks, Coppersharks and many other species are encountered. Easter time is the best time for Zambezies, Hammers, Black Tips, Tiger sharks and even the odd Great White.
In June / July countless whales and dolphins visit the area, during the Sardine Run. The Sardine Run is a world phenomenon, unique to South Africa. People who have had the priviledge to experience the sea during this time will never forget the adrenaline rush when huge whales breach metres away from the boat.
The range of available species is formidable – from grey reefs to threshers to the odd hammerhead – but Protea's main claim to fame is the huge number of ragged-toothed sharks to be found on the reef for much of the year. Also known as sand tiger sharks, these sleek bronze predators are an adrenalin-pumping enhancement to an already exceptional diving are.
Getting There:
Virgin Atlantic, British Airways and South African Airways are the only airlines that fly directly to South Africa. If you don't mind longer flights, Lufthansa is a good bet – you'll stop over in Frankfurt though. South Africa is such a large country that it is normal to fly between cities and this can save you a lot of arduous travel.
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For safety reasons, divers should never enter the sardine pockets during the Run. This is very dangerous as in the confusion they could receive serious harm. Don't underestimate the boat ride out to the Shoal! Water conditions here are unpredictable. Some days it's flat, others a churning mass. Get some rib practice in before you go and take the advice of the dive masters who are very used to the conditions. Remember that sharks are unpredictable creatures. Do not annoy them and try and remain calm and not panic.
Dive South
SOUTHERN AFRICA South Africa & Mozambique - by David Dixon
SOUTHERN AFRICA South Africa Tour - by Peter Fielding
SOUTHERN AFRICA Sharks, Seals, Surf and Dive South - by Monty Halls
SOUTHERN AFRICA White Sharks and Vin Rouge - by Dean Heatley
SOUTHERN AFRICA Mozambiqe and Protea Banks- by Lucy Kublikowski
SOUTHERN AFRICA South African Diary - by Robert MacKenzie
Oh My God, That's a Bloody Big Shark
When the Muck Clears
Sardine Soup
The Sharks of Protea Banks
On Safari: Wet, Dry and Scary
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