BSAC TRAVEL CLUB - South of France

TRAVEL CLUB

South of France

France is the nearest diving destination country to the UK that can offer a wide range of diving suitable for all grades of divers, together with excellent facilities, pleasant surroundings and easy access. We consider here the Mediterranean coast of France, running from the Spanish frontier in the west to the Italian frontier in the East. Virtually all of this coast is divable but there are some areas which stand out.

Travel
France is easily accessible via the Channel Tunnel and by the traditional car ferry services. Once on the road you can use the network of motorways which will take you to all points on the southern coast. All motorways in France (Autoroutes) are toll roads and you will pay according to the type of vehicle. Expect to pay something like £100 for a round trip from a Channel port to your destination on the coast.
The major advantage of travelling by road is that you can bring your own gear, important for photographers or rebreather users. Also, it may just be more economical if you have 3 or 4 people in the car. It is possible to do the trip in one run if you have more than one driver in the car, and need to minimise the trip time. However, if you are not in a hurry its quite a nice road as you get further south and it seems a shame to tear through it at high speed. An overnight stay can be an added feature on your holiday and is a better alternative than driving when you are really too tired.
Don't expect good food or accommodation if you stop on the motorway. Turn off into a proper town and avoid anything that looks American (Holiday Inn, McDonalds, etc.) There really should be no problem eating well in France. Otherwise, first choice is Easyjet to Nice from Luton, Gatwick, Stanstead or Liverpool. Book well in advance. Pretty strict on baggage though. Other low cost airlines, such as Ryanair, are opening up to the area via other airports, and promised lower fares from the major airlines (also thanks to Easyjet). Many local dive centres will pick you up from the airport, but there are also good local bus services.
Be aware that France has a terrible reputation for road safety. They kill approximately twice as many people on the roads each year as the UK. Drive defensively, expect the worst. Tail-gating is a national pastime. The white lines in the middle of the road are often ignored, as if they were just there for decoration. Expect drivers to shoot the traffic lights, particularly cyclists and juveniles on scooters.

Timing
If at all possible, avoid school holidays. August in particular. First choice is September/October, otherwise May/June, although sea temperature is distinctly cooler pre-season (still compares well with UK). If you must travel in July or August then prepare for heavy traffic on the road down, and anytime you take to the coast road. The whole of France goes on Holiday in August (not to mention the Belgians, Dutch.....).
The acceptable diving season really runs from Easter to November, although many facilities may not operate during the week outside the June/September period. Check first to make sure you can find what you need.

Diving area
This will be influenced by your certification and your preferences. For divers at Ocean or Sport Diver level, it won't make that much difference as there is good diving in the 30m range almost anywhere along the coast. For divers with more experience and higher certification then there are certain target areas to go for. The best diving is probably found in the "Var". This is the area that starts just east of Cannes and goes to St Cyr, just west of Toulon. Pretty central in this area is Cavalaire, the main base for "serious" diving is around Cavalaire with a wide variety of sites. This is equally true of Porquerolles or Le Lavandou/Bormes. This area has a wide range of wreck diving at all depths, but mostly 40+m. If you give yourself a limit of 50m (BSAC AD) you will find a fantastic range of wrecks available, including the submarine "Rubis", and classics such as the "Donator".
Further west, the Marseilles area, the "Bouches du Rhône", has an excellent range of wreck dives, including fairly shallow ones. Even further west, the area around Argeles and Collioure, and down to the Spanish border also has a good variety of diving, including wrecks, but less reliable weather and sea conditions.
The eastern end of the coast, from Cannes to Menton is the "Alpes Maritimes", more mountainous and sophisticated with a very special climate which has given the "French Riviera" its enviable reputation. Plenty of surprisingly good diving here but without the wreck collection of the "Var".
Almost every port on the Mediterranean coast of France has one or more dive boats. They typically make two or more trips a day during the summer. Although you could breeze into any of these and arrange some diving this is really only recommended to better qualified divers with some grasp of French. Otherwise choose one of the larger centres with broader facilities where you will find a more "international" approach to organising diving.
Remember, French divers embrace a different culture and have some different ideas on the subject of diving. Don't worry about it and don't bother trying to convert them. UK divers generally have a good reputation among the dive centres - don't disappoint them.

Where to stay
The South of France has a complete range of possibilities, from excellent camp sites to top hotels, but also a good range of reasonable (2 star) hotels in the middle which are good deals away from the main season. If you are booking with a dive centre then let them advise you, as they will usually have a good deal set up with local hotels or apartments. If you are mobile then a self-catering apartment or villa to suit the size of your group could be a good option. Shopping locally to eat-in is often a best-value choice.

Eating out
Now this is the real difference between France and the Red Sea. Most towns on the coast have a vast selection of restaurants of all types. But having said that, remember that the best food in France is usually French. A restaurant will offer "Menus" at fixed prices (including service) so you know exactly what you will pay. And wine is cheaper than in most other diving destinations, or the UK. Such menus are usually in the £10 - £15 range for 3 courses, plus wine, but go for the 'house-wine' for best value.
Don't look for Indian food, the French don't care for it so it gets "dumbed down" to suit local tastes. And outside Paris, don't expect Chinese food, they don't have any Chinese colonies (like Hong Kong) so it will be Vietnamese or Cambodian and, believe me, that's not the same.
Pizza is an art-form in France, much better than the Italian original.

The Towns
Here again there is something for everyone, tiny villages and major towns, all different in many ways. Don't stay glued to the coast during your trip, the mountains are just a little way inland, particularly at the eastern end of the coast, and provide a welcome escape from the crowded coastal strip. The area is famous for its hilltop villages with cool narrow streets and fabulous views.
Many of the smaller ports would make a good base for a diving holiday, but wherever you stay you can still get out for the day and see anywhere along the coast, although your range will be shortened by traffic jams in August.

The best diving in the South of France is as good as anywhere, and the après -dive is better, and it's nearer.

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