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Tonga























Tonga is the last remaining Polynesian kingdom: It was never colonised by a European power - a fact it is very proud of. This tiny South Pacific island nation has strong traditions and a larger-than-life king (before he went on a weight-loss program, King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV made the Guinness Book of World Records for weighty monarchs). It's less Westernized and less modernised than many of its Polynesian neighbours - which is good news for travellers in search of an authentic South Pacific experience. The faka Tonga (Tongan way), which emphasizes hospitality and gift giving, still holds sway, and the Tongan people are among the friendliest in the South Seas.

For such a small place, Tonga has a lot to offer - fascinating historical sites, beautiful coral reefs and reasonable prices. What these islands don't offer is an array of luxurious resorts. But Tonga is no longer off the beaten path. With airlines offering more flights to the island nation and more tour operators including it in their Polynesian itineraries, it's easier for travellers to get there - which is a mixed blessing, of course, for those seeking a completely authentic experience. On the more popular islands, you definitely won't be alone in your quest for the unspoiled tropics.
Tonga is a collection of 169 volcanic and coral islands 1,500 mi/2,400 km north of New Zealand, just west of the International Date Line. The country contains four main island groups: Tongatapu (to the south), Ha'apai (roughly in the center), Vava'u (to the north) and the Niuas (to the extreme north).

Only 40 of the islands are inhabited which means that diving here is frontier diving. Vava’u is home to a number of shore based dive operators but the remote Ha’apai Islands are virtually undeveloped and best explored by live aboard. Many of the reefs are completely unexplored. Best of all, between July and September, Tonga is home to a large number of Humpback whales who are migrating from their feeding grounds in Antarctica. In Tonga they court, mate and calve giving divers a unique opportunity to interact with them. Go very soon.

The best time to visit is during the driest season, April-November, when day temperatures are in the 70s-80s F/21-36 C and the nights are in the 60s F/16-21°C. December-March is the rainy season, but it usually isn't so bad that it should deter a visit (it's a few degrees warmer then). Trade winds blow year round: A sweater may be needed for evenings.

Tonga is one of the cheapest destinations of the main South Pacific islands so you'll find your money stretching further than Hawaii, The Cook Islands or Tahiti. Tipping is not encouraged and contrary to Polynesian culture. Most credit cards and travellers cheques are readily accepted and there are ATM machines at Westpac and ANZ banks in Nuku'alofa and Neiafu. Currency is the Tongan dollar. There are resorts and guest houses around the islands, several dive operators and a liveaboard operating in the area.
Diving:

Every year humpback whales undertake one of the longest migrations known to man, which takes one population from their feeding grounds in Antarctic waters to their Tongan breeding grounds. These whales form part of an Antarctic feeding population south of New Zealand and Australia but little is known about the migration path of this small population and their movements between the Southwestern Pacific Islands. A chance to see these majestic animals is an experience of a lifetime. Tongan waters are crystal clear with the visibility averaging 100 ft plus. A big plus for the diving is the incredible variety found all in one group of magnificent islands. Tonga diving offers hard corals that truly are untouched, and soft coral gardens with rainbows of colors. One of the best life size Gorgonia fan dives in the South Pacific is located in Vava'u, a small island group in the north of the Kingdom of Tonga. Unique caves and caverns, spectacular underwater archways, large black coral trees, and wall dives that vanish into the inky blue. Also the wreck of the Clan McWilliam which sank over 65 years ago sitting upright and is still intact. There are over 50 islands in the Tonga group so it is still very much a place that is to be discovered.

King Neptune's Sea Fan Grotto
The size of the sea fans on this dive are beyond belief. Flute fish and butterfly fish swim gracefully through the fans as the Clown Fish triggers dart back and forth. After passing the fans you enter "Clown Fish Heaven" home for hundreds of anemones and every size of clown fish possible. This dive is a photographer's dream.

Mariner's Cave
This cave can not be seen above water, it can only be found underwater. There are two entrances to the cave, the diver's entrance at 50 ft and the snorkeler's entrance at 12 ft. Once inside that cave you slowly surface into the most magnificent 40 ft high chamber with beautiful rock formations and stalactites. Inside the chamber it will turn into a blue-green fog then clear as the swell goes in and out making you think your mask has fogged up. Only seconds later the air is crystal clear again.

Hunga Magic
This is the dive site for the soft coral lover. Deep magenta, pastel pink and sunny yellow soft corals abound throughout this dive.

The Clan McWilliam
The beautiful old copra steamer sank in the 1920's with brass portholes, mast and crows nest still in place. The wreck is teaming with bat angelfish, and snappers galore. Legend has it that the Captain and Chief engineer went down with her.

Split Rock
This dive is appropriately named. This 40 x 40 ft rock looks as if God took an ax and split the rock in half. Divers can swim through the middle of the split. The hard coral reef is adorned with Christmas tree worms of every color. A couple of friendly white tip reef sharks bid you farewell from their cave near the end of the dive. sharks bid you farewell from their cave near the end of the dive.

Getting There:

You can fly there from the UK via Manila in the Philippines and Auckland in New Zealand. Check out who is offering the best deals. A 30-day tourist visa is granted free on arrival

Worldwise:
Because of the remote nature of the islands, it may be best to include at least some time on a live aboard. Tonga is an excellent stopover on the way to or from New Zealand. Don't make any jokes about the King's widely reported weight problem. The monarchy is a revered institution in Tonga. Don't go shirtless anywhere except the beach - it's not only considered rude, it's also illegal in Tonga. Please dress conservatively when ashore. Do catch a game of rugby at Teufaiva Stadium in Nuku'alofa during the April-June season. Don't be surprised to hear church bells ringing as early as 4:30 am on Sundays. Don't be surprised to find that everything (and we mean everything - taxis, sightseeing trips, etc.) shuts down on Sundays. Use this day to read, relax by the pool or get caught up on postcard writing (or, better yet, attend one of the churches and listen to the beautiful singing). Many visitors spend Sunday on Pangaimotu, 'Atata or Fafa Islands. Don't try to bargain with a merchant unless you see locals doing the same.

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