THE ORKNEY ISLANDS & SCAPA FLOW
At latitude of 59° north, where the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean meet, lies an archipelago of 70 or so islands and skerries, which make up Scotland's spectacular Orkney Islands. The Islands cover an area of 974 square kilometres and the 17 inhabited islands are home to around 20,000 people, the majority of whom live in the two main towns Kirkwall and Stromness.
Most of the islands are low-lying and richly fertile. The climate is temperate the Islands being warmed by the Gulf Stream. The driest months are April, May and June. The Islands quiet sandy beaches, stunning scenery, abundance of wildlife, fresh quality cuisine and warm welcoming hospitality make these islands an ideal place for relaxing or an action-packed holiday.
Wherever you are in Orkney you can almost feel its history. With over 5,000 years of culture, there are reminders of the past everywhere. Orkneys rich maritime history is never far away. The ancient Anchorage of Scapa flow draw divers from all over the world to what is undoubtedly Europe's premier wreck diving destination. Orkney also boasts a vibrant contemporary culture, and the rugged beauty of the area draws people from far and wide. Throughout the year there are festivals ranging from the magical midsummer St Magnus Festival to the annual agricultural shows and sporting events, including Orkney's very own Ba' and, of course, the islands' varied craft industry continues through all seasons. There are numerous opportunities to enjoy folk, jazz, country and traditional music events.
The Orkneys offer a rich variety of activities, between the sea, land, lochs, hills, and beaches there's not much Orkney cannot offer someone looking for an activity based holiday. You are never far from the coast so it is easy to enjoy water sports such as surfing, sailing, windsurfing, kite surfing, diving and kayaking, or try a spot of fishing on one of Orkney's lochs. While inland you can play a round of golf, or explore the islands on foot or by bike.
A visit to Skara Brae is essential for any visitor to Orkney. This incredibly well preserved stone village dates back some 5,000 years and was revealed in 1850 by a violent storm. It is now one of the most famous Neolithic sites in Northern Europe, containing an intricate maze of intact dwellings, with stone beds, lintels and cupboards. Orkney has fascinating historical discoveries all over the islands. These range from archaeological sites 5000 years old to the evocative reminders of recent conflict in the naval museum and cemeteries at Lyness.
Scapa Flow
Scapa Flow is one of the world's largest natural harbours covering an area of around 73 square miles and is essentially a large flat-bottomed basin with depths ranging from 18 to 46 Metres. The beautiful Islands that surround this sheltered body of water are wild and rugged making Scapa flow a stunning backdrop for a diving holiday. Scapa flows importance as a maritime centre over the centuries mean that wrecks exist from every period of European maritime history, but it is undoubtedly the wrecks from the two world wars which attract some 20,000 divers a year to the Orkneys.
At the end of the First World War the German high seas fleet was surrendered to the allies as part of the armistice agreement and some 79 ships were interred at Scapa Flow. Somewhat foolishly a small German crew was allowed to remain on each ship to carry out maintenance. On the 21st June 1919 Admiral Von Rueter, the commander of the fleet, ordered the entire fleet to be scuttled. He later claimed he believed hostilities had resumed. The Royal Navy towed 22 of the ships to shallow water, but most sank at anchor. Many of the wrecks have been heavily salvaged, but the bottom of Scapa flow remains littered with a large number of magnificent wrecks.
The deep wrecks consist of three 25,000-ton battleships, four cruisers, five torpedo boats, two submarines, a world war two destroyer and 16 charted British wrecks. As if that were not enough the Admiralty also sank some 50,000 tons of shipping as block ships to prevent entry to into Scapa Flow by enemy ships and submarines. The block ships are superb dives swept as they are by strong currents and festooned with marine life.
For the dedicated wreck enthusiast it is undoubtedly the 'big seven' wrecks of the high seas fleet that draw them to Scapa Flow. These are:
SMS Konig
This 25,500 ton Battleship gave her name to a class of 'dreadnought' battleships and was one of 11 battleships interned in Scapa Flow. She was almost 200 metres long, had a beam of 30m and a draught of 10 metres. Powered by 3 huge turbines she had a top speed of 23 Knots. The huge array of armament and armour plating on her decks ensured that the Konig (and indeed all the battleships) turned turtle as she sank. She now lays, leaning slightly to port, at a depth of 40 metres to the sea-bed. Depth to the hull however is only 20 Metres. The hull has been blown open by salvors and access to the interior of the wreck is reasonably simple for those with the appropriate training. In good visibility the size and majesty of this wreck is astounding. It will take several dives to really appreciate her.
SMS Kronprinz Wilhelm.
Like her sister ships the Kronprinz lies upside down in about 38 Metres of water. Lying on her starboard main deck, much of her superstructure is buried in the silty bottom. Depth to her hull is about 15 metres. Of the three battleships, she is in the best condition, although there has been some blasting by salvagers, particularly in the area of the engine room. Her main armament can still be found, and the wreck makes for an exciting dive, not just for wreck ferrets, but also because of the abundant life and the sheer immensity of her size.
SMS Markgraf
Like her sister ships the markgrafe was heavily armoured with ten 12-inch main guns set in five turrets, fourteen 5.9-inch guns and an array of 3.45-inch anti-aircraft guns, as well as five submerged torpedo tubes. She now lies on her port side main deck in 46 metres of water. The least depth over her is about 20 metres. If you are willing to go to the seabed some of her superstructure can be seen on her starboard side, including one of the 12-inch guns. Some of her heavy armour plating has now peeled off allowing access to yawning chasms dropping down through numerous decks.
SMS Coln -
Many divers prefer to dive the four light cruisers in Scapa flow. These all lie on their sides so most of the superstructure is accessible as are the armaments. The Coln displaced 5500 tons and is 150 Metres long. She lies in 30-35 metres of water, resting on her starboard side. The least depth over her port side is about 20 metres. She is relatively intact, apart from a hole blasted at her stern, and minus her propellers and anchor. The features of the ship are clearly recognisable though covered in a variety of marine life.
SMS Dresden
Is similar in size to her sister ship the Coln. She lies in 28-38 metres of water on her port hand side. The least depth over her is about 17 metres. She is largely intact with many of her original features still in place. The bridge is fairly intact and the control tower is interesting to visit. The anchor chain still runs from her bows to the seabed and open doorways give easy access to the experienced diver. She has a rich and diverse covering of marine growth, which serves to attract shoals of fish, particularly over the shallower areas of the wreck
SMS Brummer
This light cruiser displaced 430o tons and has an overall length of 140 metres. With her twin turbines and twin propellers she could reach speeds of 28 knots. She lies in 32-36 metres of water on her starboard side. Some salvage work has taken place on her, particularly around the engine room, but she is nevertheless in good condition and like the Coln and Dresden is an exciting dive.
SMS Karlsruhe
The Karlsruhe displaced 5300 tons and had an overall length of 150 metres. She is the shallowest, at around 25m, and most extensively salvaged of the high seas fleet wrecks and has been more exposed to the effects of winter storms. Her stern section remains relatively intact, and her bow gun turrets can still be seen. She is an interesting dive despite her condition, and the shallow depth means she is covered in a profusion of marine life. The seabed near the wreck is littered with debris.
As mentioned above the block ships provide exciting dives on often-spectacular visibility. Some of the most frequently dived are:
Gobernador Bories.
Known locally as the 'Go Bananas' this 2,300 ton Chilean steamer sunk was sunk in Burra Sound in 1915. She lies in 16-21 metres of water with a list to starboard. She is now fairly broken up but there are numerous interesting swim throughs. Strong tides through the sound mean that this is very much a slack water dive but this same tide ensures good visibility, and the wreck is teeming with life. This dive is a real must for photographers.
Tabarka.
This Dutch steamer Lies upside down in 12-15 metres of water. One or two holes that have been blasted in her hull allow access to the wreckage, and the boiler room and engine rooms can be accessed through the bulkheads. Many of her internal workings can still be seen. Most of the dive is spent inside the wreck. A strong tidal stream through Burra Sound means she can only be dived at slack waters.
James Barrie
This Hull based trawler sank in Hoxa Sound in 1969 and is remarkably intact. She lies at a depth of around 45 meters but is small enough to allow all of her to be seen without incurring too heavy a decompression penalty. There are opportunities for simple penetration. Hoxa flow is subject to huge tidal movement so this wreck must be dived on slack water. A superb dive.
So for wreck enthusiasts I have given you ten of the best, but Orkney is no one trick pony, heading north out of the flow you get access to some of the most spectacular diving in the UK. The nutrient rich cold water gives life to a staggering array of encrusting life Plumrose & Jewel anemones, starfish and sea urchins abound fighting for space under the kelp forests. Crab, Lobster, octopus and conger eels are common, seals are frequently seen and the sharp eyed diver will be rewarded with beautiful nudibranchs.
Inga Ness on the western mainland of Orkney, a collapsed sea-stack with depths down to around 30m is an excellent dive. Around the base of the stack, every crevice seems jammed with life - lobsters, crabs, dead mens fingers and nudibranches litter the rocks. Wrasse appear to investigate divers, their swivelling eyes following your every movement. Urchins appear like ghosts in the green, the pale globes standing out from a distance, up close the translucent feeding arms wave in the tiny currents.
The Tommeline sits in a gully on the north western part of Westray, one of the most northerly of the islands. A trawler sunk in the 1970's, she is very intact, glass still in the portholes, propeller still on the shaft and even the toilet still in place! In the past few years she has broken her back, allowing even greater access into her fish-holds. This dive is very reliant on settled weather at the site as it is hugely exposed (nothing between you and America!) and can suffer from very bad surge.
The Char is a small wreck lying in 10-15m of water. On occasion it is possible to see the whole wreck from the surface and plan the dive from it! This small wreck has encouraged a plethora of flora and fauna to colonise this area, this is a wreck for the marine life lover rather than the metal lover. Little of the hull remains, cross beams sit at strange angles within the wreck, but allow clean and easy penetration. The skeletal remains of the wreck allow the light to penetrate even the deepest parts of the structure. The shallow depth and interesting backdrop means that the Char is a macro photographers dream.
Weather & Tides
The Orkneys are a long way north. The latitude means that the water is cold rarely rising above 16 degrees centigrade even at the height of summer. The weather is unpredictable with the area being exposed to westerly gales and storms and North Atlantic swells. The sheltered position of Scapa Flow means that you are rarely unable to dive but underwater visibility can be reduced in poor weather. Visibility ranges from 2 - 20 M on the high seas fleet and can be much better on the block ships and in the Northern isles. The driest months to visit are April May and June; late summer can often be stormy in this part of the world.
Charter Boats
The remote location of the Orkneys means that it is logistically difficult for clubs south of the border to take their own boats to the Orkneys. Most diving is done from the 15 or so charter boats that are available for hire. Most of these boats have skippers who are very experienced in Orkney waters and can ensure you get the best possible diving experience. Most of the boats have compressors aboard and can provide oxygen or helium by arrangement. Many boats can offer accommodation onboard on a bed & breakfast or fully catered basis. The boats are mainly ex-fishing vessels converted to meet the needs of divers. Expect comfortable functional accommodation, not Red Sea liveaboard luxury. The number of charter boats in the area mean that diving in Orkney is very cost effective with most skippers offering a weeks diving including air, two dives a day and bed & breakfast for less than £300.
During 2007 several of the dive boats are being fitted with diver lifts making life much easier for divers who are wearing twin tanks and multiple stages.
Recompression facilities
It is a sad fact that multi day diving in cold water, probably involving two decompression dives a day can lead to incidence of decompression illness, especially if the diver mixes their diving with alcohol in one of the many local hostelries. It is good advice to take a days rest in the middle of your diving week to allow your body to recover. There are however recompression facilities in Stromness. Tel. 01856 850055.
Dive shops and Charter boats
Divers are well catered for in Orkney. With over 20,000 divers visiting a year the diving dollar plays a huge part in the local economy and divers are made very welcome. Most boats will provide gas onboard, but there are two dive shops in Stromness if you wish to dive as part rather than purpose of your holiday.
Scapa Scuba is situated at Lifeboat House, Stromness, Orkney, Scotland,
KW16 3DA. Telephone 01856 851218 or e-mail diving@scapascuba.co.uk They have a very well equipped dive shop and can provide a superb range of novelty dry suits and hoods as well as air & Nitrox. The also operate a day boat MV Radiant Queen. For details see Website
The Diving Cellar 4 Victoria Street, Stromness, Orkney, KW16 3AA
Telephone 01856 850055 or e-mail leigh@divescapaflow.co.uk
This operation has a well stocked dive shop and can offer reasonably priced comfortable accommodation ashore. They operate a dive boat MV John L and offer both air and Nitrox. For details see Website
MV Valkyrie, Northfield, Holm, Orkney, KW17 2RZ
Telephone 01856 781769 or 07795 966903 e-mail hazel@mv-stormdrift.co.uk Recently refurbished and renamed this 72ft ex fishing vessel provides a very stable diving platform and boasts Orkneys first all female crew. With plenty of space for 12 divers in 6 twin berth cabins, good cooking and living areas this boat will meet all of your diving holiday needs. For further info see Website
Sunrise Charters, Carradale, Weyland Bay, Kirkwall, Orkney, KW15 1TD
Telephone 01856 874425 or e-mail dougie@sunrisecharters.co.uk
The "Sunrise" is a 70ft live-aboard dive boat that has been providing diving holidays in Scapa Flow for many years. The accommodation is warm, spacious and comfortable. Both Nitrox and Trimix are available on board, and the boat boasts a large covered kitting up area. For further info Website
MV Karin, John Thornton, Polrudden House, Peerie Sea Loan, Kirkwall, Orkney, Scotland, KW15 1UH. Telephone (01856) 874761, e-mail john@scapaflow.com
This boat boasts 7 recently refitted cabins and is skippered by John Thornton one of the most experienced divers and skippers in the area. A full range of IANTD courses can be provided on board. Air and Nitrox are available and Trimix is available by arrangement. For further info Website
MV Invincible, Ian & Fiona Trumpess, Lerquoy, Outertown, Stromness, Orkney, KW16 3JP. Telephone (01856) 851110 or e-mail info@scapa-flow.co.uk
Invincible is the largest of the Orkney Dive boat Fleet with an overall length 25.5mts she is more than capable of offering pretty much all year round diving. Invincible boasts large comfortable accommodation and even has an onboard bar. Website
Halton Charters, 3 Ness Road, Stromness, Orkney. KW16 3DL
Telephone 01856 851532 or e-mail bob@mvhalton.co.uk
Halton Charters offers day-boat or live aboard charters to divers in Scapa Flow and beyond, mainly operating from Stromness. Built to withstand the worst of the weather for her former life as a trawler, the Halton is now a sturdy, capable dive boat. She is just short of 70ft in length and 17ft in width, so there is plenty of space for 12 divers to kit up and then to relax after the dive.
Website
Scapa Flow Charters: 5 Church Road, Stromness, Orkney KW16 3BA
Telephone 01856 850879 or e-mail enquiry@jeanelaine.co.uk
This company operate two dive boats MV Jean Elaine and MV Sharon Rose, both of which can operate as a liveaboard or a day boat. Both Boats have a large fully fitted saloon with connecting galley. Both boats are an IANTD Registered Nitrox Facility offering a full range of bottom and decompression gasses together with IANTD courses. Other gases can also be arranged on request.
Website
Stromness Diving Centre Steve Mowat, Barkland, Cairston Road, Stromness,
Orkney, KW16 3JT Tel: 01856 850624 or email steve@triton.force9.co.uk
"Triton" is a well equipped and professionally converted 58ft MFV Below deck there is a heated changing room, a six-berth cabin and a storage hold. There is a large deck saloon with a table and ample seating for a full party, plus facilities for making hot drinks and snacks. There are shower and toilet facilities on board. For further info Website
How To Get To Orkney
By Air. British Airways and Loganair fly daily services into Kirkwall Airport (except Sundays) from London, Bristol, Birmingham, Manchester, Glasgow, Edinburgh, lnverness & Wick.
By Sea: Northlink Ferries operate a daily RoRo Ferry (the Hamnavoe) to Stromness, from Scrabster, near Thurso on the Scottish mainland. Northlink Ferries also operate a RoRo Ferry leaving Aberdeen for Kirkwall several times a week. There's also Pentland Ferries offering a Ro-Ro service between Gill's Bay (nr John o' Groats) and St Margaret's Hope in Orkney. In summer a passenger ferry operates between John 'O Groats & Burwick.
By Road: Head north using the motorway system for the A9. Roads to Thurso, Wick and John 'O Groats are well signposted,
By Rail: Scotrail stations are located at Thurso & Wick, you may have to change at Inverness.
Tourist Information
Scottish Tourist board: Website
Orkney Tourist Board: Website or Website or Website
All of the centres and boats listed above will assist you with either liveaboard or land based accommodation. If diving is only part of your motivation for visiting these lovely Islands details of further accommodation can be found at Orkney Islands Website
With thanks to Helen Hadley for many of the photographs and Northern Isles information.
NE Scotland main page
UK DIVE GUIDES
Books and guides to help you plan, and to take with you - buy on-line.
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Scapa Flow by Gordon Mackie
Scapa Flow by Helen Lear
Scapa Flow by Neil Smitham
Scapa Flow by Steve Jones
Scapa Flow by Newbury SAC
Escapa 2003 by Alan Fitch
Scapa Flow by Richard Booth
Scapa Flow by Richard Booth
Scotland's Secret, the Moray Firth by Scott Laddiman
Scapa Flow - An Internet Odyssey by Alan Ewart
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