SCOTLAND – NORTH WEST COAST
Oban - The Gateway to the Isles
The bustling and picturesque little port of Oban has developed into Scotland's most popular West-coast holiday destination. Oban is the unofficial 'capital' of the western highlands and its port the gateway to the Western Isles. For many divers Oban is the dive capital of Scotland, though no doubt St Abbs and Stromness would dispute this claim. One of Oban's major attractions however is its sheltered position that ensures that divers can get in the water no matter what the weather. The panoramic views of the mountains, lochs and islands combined with a vast and diverse eco-system and a huge array of dive sites ensure that Oban can rightly claim to be one of the worlds top dive locations.
Beyond Oban lie the islands of the Inner Hebrides: Kerrera, which protects the town from Atlantic storms, the low, green island of Lismore, majestic Mull and the granite mountains of the Morvern peninsula. Beyond them, the sacred mystical island of Iona, Coll, Colonsay and Tiree. All of these beautiful Islands can be reached directly or indirectly from Oban. The seas around Oban are a mecca for water sports enthusiasts. As well as divers the area is popular with sailors, fishermen and canoeists. Much of the spectacular scenery in the area is best seen from the sea.
For the moderately energetic and for non-divers this area of Scotland has some truly breathtaking walking. All grades of hill walking are available and for those who want a real challenge there are 20 Munro's within 45 minutes drive of Oban. There are a wide range of visitor attractions in the area, details of which can be found at Oban Tourist Board.
As befits a popular tourist resort Oban is blessed with a wide range of pubs, bars and restaurants, there is something to suit every taste and every pocket.
The Diving
The area around Oban and Mull is blessed by a vast and diverse eco-system and consequently has a very wide range of dive sites. Whether you enjoy excellent wrecks, vertical walls, mind blowing currents or masses of marine life you will find it in this area. The underwater photographer will find plenty of macro life and nudibranchs in abundance. Rare Northern Sea-fans can be found in the area, as can many species of anemone and invertebrate. In inclement weather a trip into one of the many nearby sea lochs will almost guarantee diving. Puffin dive centre, situated a couple of miles south of Oban claim that only two or three days diving a year are completely blown out in this area. Most diving in the area is done from boats and is suitable for a sports diver and above.
Wreck Dives
The Hispania (56 34 55N: 05 59 13W)
The Hispania is probably the best shallow-water shipwreck in Scotland. She was around 72m long and now lies in 30m of water. The ship is still remarkably intact despite the constant battering from the currents in the area. The wreck is encrusted in a colourful array of anemones and sea squirts making for an incredibly scenic dive. This dive should not be missed.
The Breda (56 28 55N: 05 25 10W)
The Breda, a casualty of world war two, easily qualifies as Scotland's most-dived wreck, and it's easy to see why. It is reasonably intact, conveniently located near Oban and sheltered from most bad weather. She was carrying a fascinating cargo including military vehicles aircraft parts including engines and general military supplies and even some racehorses, believed to have belonged to the Aga Khan. The wreck is so popular that local dive centres maintain up to three buoys on the Breda, one at the bows, one amidships, and one at the stern. Sitting upright in 30m this is a great dive but penetration can be dangerous due to sometimes poor visibility and silt.
The Rondo (56 32 18N: 05 54 45W)
The Rondo is a most peculiar but very enjoyable wreck. She sits almost vertical, with her bow in 50m and her stern just 6m below the surface. She is broken into two parts, and most divers stick to the section above 30m. As well as being covered in plumrose anemones and dead man's fingers, there always seems to be an abundance of colourful cuckoo and ballan wrasse. Care should be taken to dive at slack water as the currents can be fierce and can pick up quickly.
The Thesis (56 30.03N, 5 41.43W)
The 378 ton Thesis was 167ft long with a beam of 25ft she left Middlesbrough carrying a cargo of pig iron for her homeport of Belfast. In thick fog, just after midnight on 16 October 1889, the Thesis ran onto a reef just off the eastern shore of the southern end of the Sound. It was not long before she slid off the reef and sank in deep water. The Thesis lies on a steepish slope between 20 and 35m, and despite her age is a magnificent wreck. Plenty of light penetrates through her and being inside is a magical experience, with shimmering light beams, colourful wrasse and silvery saithe swimming all around you.
Reef & Scenic dives
Insh Island Wall (OS Grid ref. NM 731 189)
On the Southwest side of Insh Island a boulder slope gives way to a sheer wall with a seabed well beyond diving range. There are huge colonies of up corals, sea fans, sea squirts the size of footballs, many soft corals and anemones. This is a spectacular dive, especially for photographers.
Ard-na-Cuile (OS NM 731 189)
Laying just to the south of Oban this site is around an exposed headland. Moderate currents make the dive suitable for intermediate divers. The wall sweeps away eventually to 70m but where the rock meets the sand at around 22M you can find squat lobsters, scallops, wrasse blennies and gobies as well as a proliferation of sea urchins.
The Falls of Lora
There are drift dives, high-octane drift dives and then there are the falls of Lora. Situated at the entrance to Loch Etive just north of Oban currents can be well in excess of 6 knots at this site. There really is no slack period the tide merely changes direction. Surface and bottom currents can flow in opposite directions making use of an SMB very interesting indeed. Boat cover is essential! The huge movement of water means the reefs are covered with sponges, dahlia anemones and hydroids. Fish life is prolific with butterfish and scorpion fish common.
Weather and tides
The geography of this area means that many of the dive sites are not weather dependant. Dive centres will have alternate plans allowing them to escape into sheltered sea lochs if the weather is very inclement. The effects of the gulf-stream mean that the water temperature is warmer than might be expected this far North, around 14 degrees in August. May June and September are best for sunshine and settled weather. Underwater visibility is rarely less than 4 -5 M and can be up to 20M, especially offshore.
Tidal predictions for the area are available at:
YBW Weather
The inshore forecast can be viewed at
Met Office Weather
Admiralty charts etc
Admiralty chart 2378, Loch Linnhe, Southern Part.
Admiralty chart 2390 Sound of Mull
Admiralty chart 2392 Sound of Mull Western Entrance
Ordnance Survey Map 49
Books
Oban & East Mull. Argyll Shipwrecks by Peter Moir & Ian Crawford.
The Diver Guide to Scotland Vol 1: Dive West Scotland by Gordon Ridley.
Shipwrecks of the West of Scotland by Bob Baird.
Dive Scotland's Greatest Wrecks by Rod Macdonald.
Shipwreck Index of the British Isles Vol 4 by Richard & Bridget Larn.
Dive west Scotland by Lawson Wood
Dive Shops, Gas and Charter boats
As might be expected in an area with so much to offer divers there are a number of operators.
Air is available from Tralee Dive Centre (01631 720262)
Puffin Dive Centre 01631 566088 can provide air, Nitrox & Helium Puffin Website
Oban Divers (01631 566618). Can provide air
A number of day boats operate from Oban and the surrounding area. Some can also supply air and several can arrange accommodation.
'Silver Swift' Silver Swift Website contact Paul and Jeanette Gallagher 01688 302390
Lochaline boats Lochaline Boats Website contact 01967 421305
Porpoise diving Porpoise Diving Website contact David Ainsley on 01852 300203
Lochaline dive centre Lochaline Dive Centre 01967 421627
Live-aboards operating out of the Sound of Mull include
The 'Jane R' call Gordon Wadsworth on 0777 585 1150) Dive Scotland Website
Gaelic Rose (Bob Jones, 01967 421654) Gaelic Rose Website
Northern light charters (01631 740595) Northern Light Charters Website
Launch sites
Oban Yachts & Marine Services Ltd
Ardentrive, Kerrera, Oban, Argyll, PA34 4SX Tel 01631 565333
Oban Sea School
Mount Stuart, Gallanach, Oban, Argyll, PA34 4QJ. Tel 01631 562013
Dunstaffnage Marina
Dunbeg, Oban, Argyll, PA37 1PX Tel 01631 566555
Small boats can also be launched from the slipway at Puffin divers.
BSAC Branches
Dalriada BSAC Oban. Contact Mr A McLeod 01631 570165
Accommodation
Being a tourist area Oban has a wealth of accommodation available.
Tourist Board has a list of accommodation to suit every budget. Everything from fine hotels to campsites is listed.
Oban has many pubs, but divers make a beeline for the Oban Inn. Voted the most atmospheric pub in town, it's a real fisherman's hideaway, divers will be fascinated by the with ship's wheels and artefacts dotted all round the room.
The Wide Mouthed Frog. Award winning seafood restaurant with accommodation situated with great views over Dunstaffnage Bay and Castle Website
The Mondo bar and Bistro offers great food in relaxed surroundings, a winning combination when combined with great live music.
Bachler's Conservatory at the Kimberley Hotel offers high-class cuisine at the more expensive end of the market. Situated just two minutes walk from the centre of town this would be a great way to finish a weeks holiday. Website
How to get there
Most people take the M80 North from Edinburgh to Stirling then the A84 to Callander and the A85 to Crainlarich and on to Oban.
Those coming North Via the M74 and Glasgow can take the M8, cross the Erskine bridge and go along the banks of loch lomond to Crainlarich and then on to Oban
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The Thesis
The Hispania
Colourful Sea Life Abounds
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