SCOTLAND – NORTH WEST COAST
St Kilda
The archipelago of St Kilda, which consists of four main islands, Hirta, Boreray, Soay and Dun and numerous stacs and skerries, is the most remote part of the British Isles, lying as it does just over 40 miles west of Benbecula in Scotland's Outer Hebrides.
The landscape of St Kilda was fashioned over 60 million years ago by volcanic action and by the violent action of wind and water. A rift in the northern continent caused widespread volcanic activity. The land between Hirta and Boreray collapsed inwards and St Kilda's jagged, eroded cliffs and sea stacs were thrown up. This incredible upheaval has created some of the best cave and tunnel dives in Europe. With almost gin-clear visibility and, what has been described as the finest marine life in Britain, St Kilda is fast becoming a 'must' on the list of places to dive. St Kilda has scenery in a class of its own and with a stunning combination of vertical walls, tunnels and gullies the Islands can justifiably claim to be one of the best cold water diving locations in the world.
These islands with their exceptional cliffs and sea stacs, of which the Stac an Armin and the Stac Lee are the highest in Britain, form the most important seabird breeding station in northwest Europe.
Life must have been incredibly hard for the native population of this remote outpost. The Islanders eked a living from nature. Barley and oats were grown, cattle & sheep kept & the harsh sea harvested, but the islanders were primarily reliant on the seabird population. The islanders took gannets, fulmars and puffins for food, feathers and oil. Each tenant had his own strip of land, on which he built his house.
The dawn of the 20th century saw the Island come more into contact with the outside world and the population slowly dwindled. The evacuation of the last 36 residents to the mainland in 1930 brought to a close an extraordinary story of survival.
In 1957 the 5th Marquis of Bute bequeathed St Kilda to The National Trust for Scotland. In the same year, it was designated a National Nature Reserve.
Travel
Getting to St Kilda is far from easy. For those travelling from the south it is a long drive to Mallaig or Oban to pick up a charter boat. From there the journey time is dependent on weather and tide conditions, as well as the type of boat chartered. A motor vessel from Oban, for example, will probably take around 14 hours minimum to travel to St Kilda. From the Western Isles it might be around 8 hours. Crossing to St. Kilda overnight may well be the best way of doing it. If the sea is going to be rough then the best place to be is asleep in your bunk.
The Diving
Sgarbh Stac
A truly impressive archway. The top is at around 30m and the bottom at around 50m. The walls are covered with anemomae, the visibility is often in the 40 Metre range and if you are lucky a curious seal or two may visit you. Plant life and kelp beds make this a haven for sea-life and when combined with the awesome topography this is a truly spectacular dive. There can be a considerable swell so decompression dives should be undertaken with care.
Saw Cut (Isle of Dun)
This is a big underwater crag in the rocks of Dun, an island that forms the south east side of Village Bay. Once inside the 'cut' the sheer walls are plastered in a colourful mix of anemones, sponges, dead men's fingers and hydroids. If surface conditions are right the water slams into small caves and gullies above creating an eerie noise underwater. Heavy surface swells can make entry and exit difficult at this site.
Glen Bay Caves.
The entrance to these caves is at about 18 metres. The cave is dark, bleak and forbidding, as it penetrates around 90 metres into Hirta before bearing right into the unknown. The caves make a really interesting dive for the suitably qualified diver. Divers frequently encounter Grey Seals here. Visibility in this area is usually very good and there is diving suitable for all levels of diver.
Seilg Geo (Cave)
A very bright inlet with a maximum depth of 24m underwater at the entrance which rises to above the surface. At the rear of the cave are some huge smooth boulders that are almost totally devoid of life, due to the ever-present surge. The walls on either side of the entrance were covered in tiny jewel anemones, sponges, starfish and dead men's fingers. Above the entrance large kelp fronds can be seen swaying in the waves 10 or 15 metres above. On closer inspection these fronds may have an amazing number of nudibranchs grazing on them.
Creagan Na Rubhaig Bana
A vertical wall dive to a depth of just over 40m. The wall is totally covered in jewel anemones, purple, yellow and green sponges. The prettiest part of the dive is in the shallows with small clefts in the rock face crammed full of dead men's fingers, anemones, more sponges, squat lobsters, small fish and all sorts of encrusting life.
Stac Lee
Visibility on this wall dive is often excellent and marine life is prolific. The wall descends to depths in excess of 50m. There is a convenient ledge at 30m for those who prefer to pick their depth.
Essential Information
St Kilda has great dives for most grades of diver. Depths in excess of 50m are easy to find and swells and currents can be strong enough to challenge experienced divers. That said, the relatively inexperienced should not be deterred, as there are high quality dives that are very accessible for the sports diver.
The sea temperature is pretty chilly this far North, typically between 8 and 12 degrees. A quality dry suit and suitable undergarments are recommended year round. Divers are also advised to pack plenty of warm and weatherproof clothing as the climate in this area is heavily influenced by the North Atlantic drift.
The only really practical way to reach the Islands is by live-aboard Charter Boat. Divers are well advised to make their plans early as trips to St Kilda are often booked 12 months in advance.
Charter Boats
Gaelic Rose is a 60' converted fishing boat that can accommodate 12 divers in 3 twin rooms and an open plan sleeping area. The boat has a large lounge area, 2 showers & 2 toilets as well as drying facilities. Air and Nitrox is available onboard. Cylinders can be provided by arrangement if you don't want to take your own.
Gaelic Rose
Northern Light Charters have a choice of two boats, hjalmar bjørge, and elizabeth g which all have the capacity to visit St Kilda as dive charters. The boats are rebreather friendly and air, Nitrox and Trimix are available onboard.
Northern Light Charters
Loyal Mediator is a refurbished ex Navy Fleet Tender which can accommodate up to 12 divers. Air, Nitrox and Trimix are available onboard. This boat may be unique in having a four-person recompression chamber onboard!
Loyal Mediator
Photos courtesy of Andy Martin of South Northants BSAC South North Hants BSAC
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Dramatic scenery at St Kilda
A diver enters the water
Steep cliffs mirror the underwater terrain
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