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Vanuatu
Vanuata is a chain of 83 tropical islands in the South West Pacific only a few flying hours from Australia. The archipelago stretches over 800km of the Pacific Ocean in a rough Y shape. Diving in Vanuatu is an experience not to be missed and offers everything from easy protected waters to shallow reefs and deeper drop-offs.
Of course diving in Vanuatu would not be complete without visiting the island of Espiritu Santo which inspired James A. Mitchener's story “South Pacific”.
The real mecca for divers is to explore the wreck of the "President Coolidge" a 33,000 tonne converted luxury liner, sunk during WWII. Often said to be the most accessible wreck in the world, she sank in 1942 after hitting a mine and now rests in the depths from 21 - 70 metres. It offers a range of dives to all parts of the ship.
THE PRESIDENT COOLIDGE
Located only a few kilometers from Luganville, the second largest town in Vanuatu on the island of Espiritu Santo, the SS President Coolidge wreck lies only a few paces from the relatively calm shore.
With visibility normally around 15-25 meters, such a wreck dive offers exceptional underwater clarity. The outer parts of the ship can be safely seen by novice divers. It can be reached from the shore or by boat. For penetration diving, most areas of interest, including the famous Lady and the Unicorn, allow divers to see outside the vessel at all times. The SS President Coolidge was originally a luxury liner that was used as a troop ship during WW2. It is impressive by any standards – 198metres long and 33,450 gross tons. This wreck will occupy you for many dives but it is not the only attraction.
THE PLANE
This dive focuses on the wreck of a single engine, Douglas SBD Dauntless dive bomber that lies in 25 metres (90 feet) of water, the maximum depth of the dive. Opinion differs as to the reason for the wreck; some say that the plane was damaged before it was 'dumped' and others claim it must have crashed because of the damage to the propeller - who knows?
The rear section is in remarkably good condition, almost intact. Visible is the tail fin, rear wheel, carrier hook and fuselage from the cockpit to the tail. The single, rotary engine is in good condition although overgrown with corals and sponges, with the three propeller blades and the cylinders clearly visible.
The cockpit and wings are badly damaged, possibly in a crash or wrecked on a carrier deck. The "Swiss Cheese" dive brakes are very evident. It's in this jigsaw puzzle of twisted metal that the wreck comes to life with large coral trout, blue fin trevally, lion fish, giant grouper, moray eels, frog fish, decorator crabs together with thousands of bait fish. Four species of shrimp including hinge beak, coral banded and cleaner live in and around the wreck.
You'll also see large bofor anti-aircraft shells together with 20mm machine gun bullets and pistol ammunition. Other supplies dumped are vehicle batteries, coke and beer bottles, tyres and ammunition boxes.
There's plenty of coral and fish and this dive makes an exciting night dive.
The dive is a multi-level profile making it a good lead-up or refresher dive for the SS President Coolidge as well as a great second dive of the day and a fantastic night dive. Back in time for dinner!
AORE WALL
Located approximately 2kms west of Aore Resort in Segond Channel, this dive is a site discovered in August 1999. The wall starts at a depth of 10 metres (32 feet) and drops to 32 metres (105 feet) and is approximately 300 metres (1000 feet) in length. It's adorned with gorgonian fans, orange soft coral and large outcrops of tubastrea coral.
At night the wall is festooned with basket stars, their "arms" outstretched feeding on the passing plankton. Again, a great multi-level second dive or night dive.
When the current is running this is an adrenaline pumping, fast, drift dive. Eddies and back currents can have you moving every which way. Look out for the fresh water welling up out of the sand in the shallows.
Some divers have seen garden eels and even a ghost pipefish, once only, again all in the shallow water.
This site was also an American wharf during WW2 and it is believed that the US Navy re-supplied their ships with fresh water, as divers have found pumping equipment both above and below the surface. There are coke and beer bottles together with other equipment that 'fall' off warships.
CINDY'S REEF
Another recent discovery, this is a shallow 20 metre (65 feet) dive on the north eastern point of Aore Island. Coral bommies surrounded by white sand with myriads of fish and aquatic life. Sometimes there can be a slight current so we just 'go with the flow' and drift with the water movement. Eagle and blue spotted rays have been seen on this dive.
As the dive progresses the typography changes in as much as the variety of low, acropora, porites and goniopora corals that completely cover the bottom. Acres of these magnificent aquatic creatures disappear into the distance. The occasional white tipped reef shark may cruise past.
PLANTATION REEF
This reef is located just a few metres from shore and is a shallow, colourful dive with lots of coral and fish. At times it can be a great drift dive and is a fantastic refresher or second dive.
SUBMARINE NET
As well as the minefields, an extra precaution was built to protect the ships in the vast American base located on Espiritu Santo during WW2. A submarine net was positioned from the north eastern point of Aore Island across to the main island of Espiritu Santo.
At the end of the hostilities, the net was sunk and has become a colourful artificial reef.
The dive site drops off to 50+ metres (160 feet) but most of the exciting life is within the first 30 metres. Large staghorn coral outcrops together with 2 to 3 metre gorgonian fans adorn the white sandy bottom.
The steel links of the net have become home to thousands of juvenile fish, sponges, corals and other invertebrates.
AORE TERRACE
On the south western end of the island is a site that has large plate corals, big bommies and when the tides are right, is a magnificent drift dive. Hump headed parrot fish, rays and grey reef sharks have been sighted. When the tide is running this dive is not for the faint hearted.
USS TUCKER (DD374) Malo Island
The day after the south western minefield was laid, the USS Tucker, an American destroyer hit a mine and broke in two. Again, as with the SS President Coolidge a few months later, the captain was not aware of the mines.
The wreck is in two sections and has a maximum depth of 22 metres (72 feet). The two sections are about 50 metres apart. The stern section is still partly intact with access below decks and the comparison with the Coolidge is amazing. You realize just how cramped life on a destroyer was.
The bow section has collapsed and no penetration is possible. A lot of the damage was done when salvors used explosives to gain access to the ship.
TUCKER REEF (Malo Island)
Surrounding the USS Tucker is a very pretty reef. With a maximum depth of 22 metres (72 feet) this makes an excellent second dive after the wreck.
MILLION DOLLAR POINT
Near the President Coolidge, this site is where the US Army dumped hundreds of tons of war surplus as they evacuated the island. You will find millions of 7UP and Coke bottles lined up among the planes, jeeps and bulldozers.
STAR OF RUSSIA
The wreck of a 1874 three masted sailing ship in 36m in Port Vila. You will also see an island trader, Konanda, an ex Qantas Sandringham flying boat and the Semle Federeson.
Water conditions:
June-October : Visibility: 15-20m Mele Bay and President Coolidge; 50m plus North Efate, outer islands and the outer reefs around Santo.
Water temperatures:
Vila: 20-23°C, Santo 20-25°C.
November-May: Visibility: 10-15m Mele Bay and President Coolidge; 20-40m plus North Efate, outer islands and the outer reefs around Santo.
Getting There:
The national airline is Air Vanuatu (NF) Level One, 160 Clarence Street, Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia (tel: (2) 9299 9737; fax: (2) 9299 5737); e-mail: sales@airvanuatu.com.au; Website, which offers weekly services between Port Vila and Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne in Australia, and Auckland (New Zealand).
The Visit the South Pacific Pass is valid for a number of airlines operating in the South Pacific, including Air Caledonie, Air Marshall Islands, Air Nauru, Air Niugingi, Air Pacific, Air Vanuatu, Polynesian Airlines, Qantas, Royal Tongan Airlines and Solomon Airlines. Offering reductions of up to 50 per cent on normal airfares, this sector-based pass allows for flexible island-hopping between the destinations of the Cook Islands, Fiji, Nauru, New Caledonia, Samoa, Tahiti, Tonga, Vanuatu and the more remote Melanesian and Micronesian islands, together with major cities in Australia (Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane) and New Zealand (Wellington). The journey must be started outside the South Pacific and only one stopover in Australia is allowed. A minimum of two coupons must be bought before departure (a maximum of eight coupons can be purchased en route). The Visit South Pacific Pass from Austravel (020-7734 7755, Website, costs from £ 114 per hop.
The international airline with the best Australasia/Pacific network is Air New Zealand (020-8741 2299, Website. You fly out from London Heathrow to Los Angeles, where you can plug into a network of flights to destinations including Fiji, the Cook Islands, Tahiti, Samoa or Tonga. Official fares to the region are around £850 return. You can pay a lot less by buying a discounted ticket to Australia or New Zealand that allows stopovers in the South Pacific; go to a flight specialist, not direct to the airline. Also consider the British Airways/Qantas/Air Pacific combo, which may be even better value. Speak to an around the world specialist ticket agency.
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Espiritu Santo, Vanuata by Catherine Corcoran
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